I've only skimmed the thread, but everything I saw seemed to be good advice to me. 
I think the caps are safe enough to pull off with just one soldering iron, no tweezer-tip required: usually the leads are flexible enough and have enough thermal mass that you can get 'em up without harming the pads. A tweezer-tip would be preferred, but I've done at least 6 SE/30s without one.
Make sure to clean the board really well (just water and brush is probably fine) and use lots of flux on the old joints before you try to remove them. I like to wet them with some new, fresh solder, too, to help them melt a little quicker.
If one managed to pull all the old caps off without lifiting a single pad, or if they had some of those stick-on replacement pads, the tantalum chip SMD capacitors makes a very durable and pretty (stock-looking) replacement. Personally, I use radial lead caps and bend the leads into little legs with gull-wings on the ends. I let 'em stick up about 3mm from the circuit board, to give room to get dikes in and clip 'em off to ease future repairs.
I've always used aluminum electrolytics on my own SE/30s but if the tantalum caps give you more of a feeling of security, go for it. They cost about twenty times as much, but they should be more durable.
I think the caps are safe enough to pull off with just one soldering iron, no tweezer-tip required: usually the leads are flexible enough and have enough thermal mass that you can get 'em up without harming the pads. A tweezer-tip would be preferred, but I've done at least 6 SE/30s without one.
Make sure to clean the board really well (just water and brush is probably fine) and use lots of flux on the old joints before you try to remove them. I like to wet them with some new, fresh solder, too, to help them melt a little quicker.
If one managed to pull all the old caps off without lifiting a single pad, or if they had some of those stick-on replacement pads, the tantalum chip SMD capacitors makes a very durable and pretty (stock-looking) replacement. Personally, I use radial lead caps and bend the leads into little legs with gull-wings on the ends. I let 'em stick up about 3mm from the circuit board, to give room to get dikes in and clip 'em off to ease future repairs.
I've always used aluminum electrolytics on my own SE/30s but if the tantalum caps give you more of a feeling of security, go for it. They cost about twenty times as much, but they should be more durable.