Thread
B/W G3 ZIF upgrade
Thinking about getting one of these for my G3/400, the G$ 1Ghz is the max. I guess ? Are these good ?
Bert
Bert
The 1ghz G3 will be better than a g4, beacon's the bus runs at 100 with a g3, 66 with a g4. :b&w:
It might be more economical to just buy a G4 Powermac these days.
The Powerlogix 1Ghz G3 ZIF runs at 66Mhz too
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/PowerLogix/PFZGX10001M/
If you are stuck running at 66Mhz on a 1Ghz G3 @ 66Mhz why not buy a 1Ghz G4 upgrade for a PCI Mac for $96 which runs at 50Mhz and has 2MB cache onboard to upgrade a nice 6 slot 9600?
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Sonnet%20Technology/PPCG410002M/
Personally I think the money is better spent on a real G4 these days since the prices are dropping fast.
The Powerlogix 1Ghz G3 ZIF runs at 66Mhz too
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/PowerLogix/PFZGX10001M/
If you are stuck running at 66Mhz on a 1Ghz G3 @ 66Mhz why not buy a 1Ghz G4 upgrade for a PCI Mac for $96 which runs at 50Mhz and has 2MB cache onboard to upgrade a nice 6 slot 9600?
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Sonnet%20Technology/PPCG410002M/
Personally I think the money is better spent on a real G4 these days since the prices are dropping fast.
On that page they specify that a G4 has to run on a slower bus, not the G3. http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=34419#34419The Powerlogix 1Ghz G3 ZIF runs at 66Mhz too
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/PowerLogix/PFZGX10001M/
If you are stuck running at 66Mhz on a 1Ghz G3 @ 66Mhz why not buy a 1Ghz G4 upgrade for a PCI Mac for $96 which runs at 50Mhz and has 2MB cache onboard to upgrade a nice 6 slot 9600?
for like $200 (not including shipping) you can find and buy a Digital Audio G4, Quicksilver G4, or even a Mirror drive door G4, and all 3 will outrun that B&W with the G3 1ghz or G4 1ghz upgrade. mainly cause of its slower system bus and its video being on a PCI bus,
if i was you i would leave the B&W as it is and buy a DA, QS, or MDD.
dont bother with the Yikes G4 cause its just a B&W with a G4 CPU and the ADB port removed.
if i was you i would leave the B&W as it is and buy a DA, QS, or MDD.
dont bother with the Yikes G4 cause its just a B&W with a G4 CPU and the ADB port removed.
$100 to bring my 8500 to 1GHz.
Man, that is so awesome.
Man, that is so awesome.
i think its a bit more then just $100$100 to bring my 8500 to 1GHz.
Man, that is so awesome.
if you dont have one, you would also need to find the zif carrier card before you could use that cpu upgrade.
if you have the zif carrier card then jump on it cause it would make a noticeable performance boost.
Did you even look at the link I posted above, the G4 is on a card that plugs into the PCI powermacs CPU slot.
ooh, i missed that one. thanks for correcting meDid you even look at the link I posted above, the G4 is on a card that plugs into the PCI powermacs CPU slot.
Just so we are all sure:
I have a few ZIF carriers.
However they are not required for this upgrade.
I have a few ZIF carriers.
However they are not required for this upgrade.
So, I guess it's better to just buy a G4 then.
Bert
Bert
Which G4 motherboard will fit in the B/W case ? Can I use the same PS and memory ?
Bert
Bert
The early G4s have different power supplies I think, you are better off getting a complete unit.
yea like a DA or above
Just get a G4 Powermac. Upgrading anything with a G3 in it is just too expensive and you won't be able to use Leopard. Don't get a PCI graphics (Yikes!) G4, though. They're not much more than a B&W G3 with a G4 CPU and have most of the same problems the B&W has keeping up with the latest software.
Asuming you do not need the latest software a B&W runs very nicely even today.
So, my best bet would be to aim for a Quicksilver then ?
Bert
Bert
http://www.outofspec.com/frankenmac/wire.shtmlThe B&W PSU connector is the same as the Yikes/Sawtooth.The early G4s have different power supplies I think, you are better off getting a complete unit.
Don't argue with my on this, I have used two B&W G3 boards, a Sawtooth board and a Digital Audio board as my primary computer in an ATX case with ATX PSU.
I am currently using the Digital Audio with an Antec Neopower 650 Blue but I have used different PSUs with the previous boards. http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/3875/00000212yf5.jpg
Oh, and a side note, the Digital Audio boards are reasonably similar to the 2001 Quicksilver boards but not exactly. If you want "large drive support" you should look for a 2002 Quicksilver board. At one point I had the board numbers memorized(DA vs QS01 vs QS02) but they seem to have escaped me.
Well, just got myself a Quicksilver off of Ebay, 733mhz, 120gb hd, 512mb ram + Pioneer DVD-R. Now i'll probably sell my B/W G3/400 for parts.
Bert
Bert
And how do you get around the fact that the Digital Audio requires a +28v signal that an ATX power supply cannot provide?http://www.outofspec.com/frankenmac/wire.shtmlThe B&W PSU connector is the same as the Yikes/Sawtooth.The early G4s have different power supplies I think, you are better off getting a complete unit.
Don't argue with my on this, I have used two B&W G3 boards, a Sawtooth board and a Digital Audio board as my primary computer in an ATX case with ATX PSU.
I am currently using the Digital Audio with an Antec Neopower 650 Blue but I have used different PSUs with the previous boards. http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/3875/00000212yf5.jpg
Oh, and a side note, the Digital Audio boards are reasonably similar to the 2001 Quicksilver boards but not exactly. If you want "large drive support" you should look for a 2002 Quicksilver board. At one point I had the board numbers memorized(DA vs QS01 vs QS02) but they seem to have escaped me.
Well I start speculating on it here, and after much rambling arrive at the much simpler solution here. Short version: +28V isn't really required per se; +5v standby (ATX purple) on that line will boot. Don't use any powered Firewire device or ADC monitors.