Thread
Mac Plus analog help, parts help
Ok my age is showing, and I am more mechanically inclined then electrically inclined.
I can read the values on the capacitors, which seem to be different than the one listed by others here on the site. I am reaching out to the people here with more aptitude than I told make a virtual cart at mouser, digikey, or both for all the caps needed so I can do the deed to my AB board. I want to do it right but sizes and ratings and the like are just got me blurry.
If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. My plus will appreciate it and so would I.
I can read the values on the capacitors, which seem to be different than the one listed by others here on the site. I am reaching out to the people here with more aptitude than I told make a virtual cart at mouser, digikey, or both for all the caps needed so I can do the deed to my AB board. I want to do it right but sizes and ratings and the like are just got me blurry.
If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. My plus will appreciate it and so would I.
I just did the same exact thing not a week ago--I haven't done the soldering yet, but the parts have arrived and I'm looking forward to getting it done.
On Uniserver's advice, I went to Mouser and went with Panasonic, 105 C parts. Mouser's results are intimmidating, but once you filter by brand, temperature, uF, Voltage, and size (size will be important since a lot of those caps are clustered close together on the board, so make sure you double-check those diameters) you tend to be left with maybe 4 choices at most.
Good luck!
On Uniserver's advice, I went to Mouser and went with Panasonic, 105 C parts. Mouser's results are intimmidating, but once you filter by brand, temperature, uF, Voltage, and size (size will be important since a lot of those caps are clustered close together on the board, so make sure you double-check those diameters) you tend to be left with maybe 4 choices at most.
Good luck!
Ok so I got mine from digikey. All soldered on all was good. Put it together nothing from the screen. I reflowed all the solder joints. No change. So I flex the board and it comes on. So it take the cable from motherboard to analog board off and switch ends, low and behold one of the contacts in the cable was the final issue. At least not that it's recapped it should be good for another 30 years.
FYI if you remove the plastic on the side of the analog don't put the outer case on as the RF shielding is conductive. That was fun......not.
FYI if you remove the plastic on the side of the analog don't put the outer case on as the RF shielding is conductive. That was fun......not.
you think its fine but there are many connections that need to be wicked or vacuum desoldered or you will have intermittent issues still.
that ab gets so hot if you get magnifying glass you will see the joints are cracked all around the pin. A good test is to wrap the side of the ab pretty good with a shoe or something, I have a rubber mallet i use, and if you can do that and the screen does not even blip then you know your work is goooood.
that ab gets so hot if you get magnifying glass you will see the joints are cracked all around the pin. A good test is to wrap the side of the ab pretty good with a shoe or something, I have a rubber mallet i use, and if you can do that and the screen does not even blip then you know your work is goooood.
Been there, done that....

