When I replaced the broken Samsung CRT with the Clinton green monochrome from my Compaq Plus, which didn't work [Gorgotron...], I replaced the neck (coil) with the original SE/30 neck. Just using the SE/30 graphics board dealt with any of the pin-out differences and (along with replacing the anode) the flyback transformer/bleeder resistor, since the design on the Compaq was different and involved two anode-leads. I've only turned that config on twice though to avoid burn-in from the high resistance phosphor [...Gorgotron... [yes... I'm familiar with the added accuracy of scrolling up...]].
In this case, I've had all these machines since the late-90s. They are entirely original in their components because I have mostly not used them. My goal was not specifically preservation, but that has been the effect. And on that point, of course, because of the imperative for preserving antiques, I assume all your machines are entirely original - as are the few I consider to be in my collection? You haven't recapped them, choosing functionality over form? Because if you have, it seems that the source of your vitriol is ignorance and not principle.
Why is it ignorance? Per my words above about having these machines for a decade and a half and not using them: I was thinking about entirely removing the innards from one of the TRS-80 all-in-one machines, including the CRT, and replacing it all with a Mac logic board and new - albeit larger - CRT as a sort of ad hoc, ironic, Lisa look-alike. So I wasn't planning on affecting any of the internals [exactly like with the Compaq, although as I said I have twice - for a cumulative 5 minutes - used the CRT with an SE board]. What's with the kid in Toy Story... was he creative? [lol]
In any event, I appreciate the info about voltages. Were I to pursue this, when I have time, that's what I'd look into. My preface about the neck/coil and the controller board speak to the fact that there are very unlikely to be physical [literally in this case visible] incompatibilities - since as someone mentioned, the CRTs themselves are probably visibly uniform in their interfaces. The issue would be whether that uniformity belies differences in voltage or polarity - or some other standard [i'm honestly curious how the graphics board will control for size and resolution, since the onboard (/30 analog board) controls are only vert/horiz but not size]. Were I to do this, I'd likely try to find an expendible logic board and CRT. I don't know if I have any old non-computer CRTs anymore.
In this case, I've had all these machines since the late-90s. They are entirely original in their components because I have mostly not used them. My goal was not specifically preservation, but that has been the effect. And on that point, of course, because of the imperative for preserving antiques, I assume all your machines are entirely original - as are the few I consider to be in my collection? You haven't recapped them, choosing functionality over form? Because if you have, it seems that the source of your vitriol is ignorance and not principle.
Why is it ignorance? Per my words above about having these machines for a decade and a half and not using them: I was thinking about entirely removing the innards from one of the TRS-80 all-in-one machines, including the CRT, and replacing it all with a Mac logic board and new - albeit larger - CRT as a sort of ad hoc, ironic, Lisa look-alike. So I wasn't planning on affecting any of the internals [exactly like with the Compaq, although as I said I have twice - for a cumulative 5 minutes - used the CRT with an SE board]. What's with the kid in Toy Story... was he creative? [lol]
In any event, I appreciate the info about voltages. Were I to pursue this, when I have time, that's what I'd look into. My preface about the neck/coil and the controller board speak to the fact that there are very unlikely to be physical [literally in this case visible] incompatibilities - since as someone mentioned, the CRTs themselves are probably visibly uniform in their interfaces. The issue would be whether that uniformity belies differences in voltage or polarity - or some other standard [i'm honestly curious how the graphics board will control for size and resolution, since the onboard (/30 analog board) controls are only vert/horiz but not size]. Were I to do this, I'd likely try to find an expendible logic board and CRT. I don't know if I have any old non-computer CRTs anymore.