I've never opened up an AIO, so I am unsure of its specific anatomy. But based on my experience with many color TVs and monitors, here are some hints:
First, identify where the arcing is occurring. Is it from the body of the flyback to some nearby piece of metal? Is it from the anode lead (esp. near the cup)? Is there a voltage doubler/tripler module (sometimes identifiable by a focus control pot mounted on/within it) that's doing the arcing (again, often to a nearby piece of metal)?
1) Arcing from the anode button is often facilitated by accumulated dust around the button. Simply brush it off -- be gentle. An ordinary paint brush works well. Be careful not to abrade away the Aquadag coating -- it forms one plate of a high-voltage capacitor used by the CRT circuitry.
2) Arcing from the HV lead itself is a sign that the insulation has broken down. The only reliable fix is replacement. In a pinch, you can sometimes get by with a few layers of electrical tape, supplemented by dressing the lead away from the chassis and other metal parts.
3) If there's a voltage multiplier module, it will often be the point of failure (the highest voltages will be there). I've lost count of the number of color TVs -- particularly projection TVs -- I've encountered with bad multipliers. The arcing usually takes place through the body of the module to a part of the chassis to which it's attached. If the damage is slight, a perfectly fine fix is to scrape (carefully) the obviously toasted parts of the body, and then to fill in the hole with epoxy. Let it dry for at least a full day (don't be impatient, or you will be sorry). The first TV I fixed this way was still working 20 years later, when it was finally decommissioned because its owner just got tired of it.
4) If the body of the flyback is arcing to some nearby metal, you might be able to salvage it using the same basic method as in 3). Just don't scrape any wiring -- just clean up the surface, then slather in some epoxy. If the flyback was only arcing intermittently, this fix may work well over a long term.
First, identify where the arcing is occurring. Is it from the body of the flyback to some nearby piece of metal? Is it from the anode lead (esp. near the cup)? Is there a voltage doubler/tripler module (sometimes identifiable by a focus control pot mounted on/within it) that's doing the arcing (again, often to a nearby piece of metal)?
1) Arcing from the anode button is often facilitated by accumulated dust around the button. Simply brush it off -- be gentle. An ordinary paint brush works well. Be careful not to abrade away the Aquadag coating -- it forms one plate of a high-voltage capacitor used by the CRT circuitry.
2) Arcing from the HV lead itself is a sign that the insulation has broken down. The only reliable fix is replacement. In a pinch, you can sometimes get by with a few layers of electrical tape, supplemented by dressing the lead away from the chassis and other metal parts.
3) If there's a voltage multiplier module, it will often be the point of failure (the highest voltages will be there). I've lost count of the number of color TVs -- particularly projection TVs -- I've encountered with bad multipliers. The arcing usually takes place through the body of the module to a part of the chassis to which it's attached. If the damage is slight, a perfectly fine fix is to scrape (carefully) the obviously toasted parts of the body, and then to fill in the hole with epoxy. Let it dry for at least a full day (don't be impatient, or you will be sorry). The first TV I fixed this way was still working 20 years later, when it was finally decommissioned because its owner just got tired of it.
4) If the body of the flyback is arcing to some nearby metal, you might be able to salvage it using the same basic method as in 3). Just don't scrape any wiring -- just clean up the surface, then slather in some epoxy. If the flyback was only arcing intermittently, this fix may work well over a long term.