I have SE/30 schematics and logic board photos. Using those, I created a detailed PDF this evening that shows the relevant connections of the RESET switch. I have uploaded this PDF to my docs.google.com account. However, Google has not yet implemented PDF sharing (poo-poo on your Google!), so I am forced to "invite" people to this PDF by email address. Therefore, if you would like to access this PDF, please PM me your email address and I will promptly issue the invites for you.
In the PDF I created, I show pertinent sections from two schematics: one drafted by Apple and another reverse-engineered by BOMARC. Both schematics are electrically the same. They are just drawn differently. I highlighted the relevant traces in yellow on both schematics.
At the bottom of my PDF you can see top/bottom photos of the Reset switch. Simply put, the Reset switch goes through resistor R5 to pin-6 of both Sony chips UB10 & UB11. The Reset switch merely feed Ground to both of those pins through R5. Hence, to test if the switch is at fault, one need only temporarily solder a little wire to the Reset Switch side of R5, reconnect cables to your logic board, then boot your Mac, and then touch the tip of the wire you soldered to ground somewhere on the logic board. You will be doing the same exact job as the switch would -- feeding ground through R5 to pin-6 of each Sony chip. If that causes a reset, you know your switch is bad, regardless of your DMM tests. If it doesn't force a reset, then perhaps R5 is bad, or the pin-6 connections to each of the SONY chips is bad, or perhaps the SONY chips themselves could be bad? Does your audio work fine (loud)?
Again, if you want to see the PDF (which really makes the above discussion crystal clear), please just PM me an email address.
In the PDF I created, I show pertinent sections from two schematics: one drafted by Apple and another reverse-engineered by BOMARC. Both schematics are electrically the same. They are just drawn differently. I highlighted the relevant traces in yellow on both schematics.
At the bottom of my PDF you can see top/bottom photos of the Reset switch. Simply put, the Reset switch goes through resistor R5 to pin-6 of both Sony chips UB10 & UB11. The Reset switch merely feed Ground to both of those pins through R5. Hence, to test if the switch is at fault, one need only temporarily solder a little wire to the Reset Switch side of R5, reconnect cables to your logic board, then boot your Mac, and then touch the tip of the wire you soldered to ground somewhere on the logic board. You will be doing the same exact job as the switch would -- feeding ground through R5 to pin-6 of each Sony chip. If that causes a reset, you know your switch is bad, regardless of your DMM tests. If it doesn't force a reset, then perhaps R5 is bad, or the pin-6 connections to each of the SONY chips is bad, or perhaps the SONY chips themselves could be bad? Does your audio work fine (loud)?
Again, if you want to see the PDF (which really makes the above discussion crystal clear), please just PM me an email address.