I think you should look at the display hinges, they seem very stiff. They also have a tendency to brake loose, since the plastic is very brittle.
as for the display, I think it's easier to get a replacement and change the capacitors on it. the only electrolytic (leaky) capacitors inside a PB are the ones in the display and on the Inverter board (the one with the brightness and contrast controls on it). the ones in the display are SMD, the two on the inverter board are thru-hole.
I made a video showing how to replace the ones inside the display, it should solve the problem that you're having.
Usually when a display is completely dead, the mac will boot normally but the display will stay black (or very dark).
Even if the display is brand new, you will still get some vertical/horizontal shadow lines and picture ghosting, this is normal in early passive matrix displays. if you want a great display, you should get a 170 or 180, with an active matrix display you get no lines and no ghosting, but (due to their age) they may suffer from another problem known as "Tunneling".
as for the display, I think it's easier to get a replacement and change the capacitors on it. the only electrolytic (leaky) capacitors inside a PB are the ones in the display and on the Inverter board (the one with the brightness and contrast controls on it). the ones in the display are SMD, the two on the inverter board are thru-hole.
I made a video showing how to replace the ones inside the display, it should solve the problem that you're having.
Usually when a display is completely dead, the mac will boot normally but the display will stay black (or very dark).
Even if the display is brand new, you will still get some vertical/horizontal shadow lines and picture ghosting, this is normal in early passive matrix displays. if you want a great display, you should get a 170 or 180, with an active matrix display you get no lines and no ghosting, but (due to their age) they may suffer from another problem known as "Tunneling".