Thread
(desoldering)-looks like 廣東省, China -- got out the copy machines of the Fr-300 Desoldering tool!!
Was only a matter of time before the cloneys hit the market. I know I got a Aoyue which is a hakko clone soldering/hotgun station and it still works ok.
I'm glad to hear that the Aoyue/Station works well enough for a hobbyist. Does it put out enough heat to yank a PDS connector off a MoBo?
I can't afford either for a while so it's a moot point. I've gotta try out the Plastic Welder, it's kinda like a precision heat gun for melting/fusing plastic rod (ripped strips of Spindly Plastic ;D ) into a seam. It ought to work well for thru-hole components.
I can't afford either for a while so it's a moot point. I've gotta try out the Plastic Welder, it's kinda like a precision heat gun for melting/fusing plastic rod (ripped strips of Spindly Plastic ;D ) into a seam. It ought to work well for thru-hole components.
ah.. you want a desoldering solution for that.
as in the first post of this thread.
i suppose you could use a heat gun.. but would still be rather tricky.
but you would still need to desolder all those holes… using wick or manual solder sucker would drive you insane.
well.. more so then already, lol
as in the first post of this thread.
i suppose you could use a heat gun.. but would still be rather tricky.
but you would still need to desolder all those holes… using wick or manual solder sucker would drive you insane.
well.. more so then already, lol
ok guy so i' had the HAKKO FR-300 for little over a year now, and i have burn out the heater on it.
Also around the same time i bought this S-993A, 110v version just as picture above, and i had burn the heater out of it as well…
so i have only used the S-993A about half the amount of time as i have used the FR-300, and both heaters burnt out after a little over a year.
so the original cost of the FR-300 was around $300, The S-993A was about $100.00
Basically because the S-993A only came with a 2.0 mm tip, I just used that for Analog boards, because bigger tips are needed anyways.
the Fr-300 came with a 1.0mm tip… and i would say over the time i have used it, i'v bought 2 additional 1.0mm tips… sometimes they get so screwed up, plugged up
you just can't get it clean and once you break the tip cleaner off in the tip its toast… you can drill it out but… the tip cleaner is weird metal...
so i ended up getting one of these and use it after about every job.
( for the FR-300 )
it helps to keep the tip from getting out of control plugged.
also the last 2 replacement tips i got were 1.0mm elongated slim nose… really helps when trying to get between narrow legs of I/C's
the stock 1.0mm tip, it kind of a fat nose and can cause issues.
so when the heater went out on the FR-300, it was about $65 dollars, and was here in able 3 days.
http://www.bdent.com/hakko-a5000-heater-core.html
the gun is designed to be torn down, and serviced, witch is kind of nice.
The S-993A heater was $15 plus $6 dollars shipping and took DAM near a month to get from china.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361249327143?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
its not as easy or as friendly to take apart, i had to use my fr-300 to desolder the power and temp wires, there was no quick disconnects like with the hakko.
while i was waiting for the heater to drive for the S-993A i decided to order a 1.0mm slim tip for it, and so i can start using it more with MB's instead of just with A/B's
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111334870055?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410319590384&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
this was $7.99 plus $2.99 shipping.
anyways, so i finally got both guns back together… and i just desoldered about 160 pins with the S-993a and the new 1.0mm slim tip and i'd say it works pretty good really.
also i wanted to toss out there the Filter the S-993a comes with is a joke… basically you can shove the standard hakko FR-300/808 style of filter in the tube and they work just fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141116538218?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
so long and short of it … if you plan to use these things regularly you want to make sure to have tips and heaters on hand… especially for the S-993a because it takes so long to receive things from china, you don't want to be down, and waiting for parts to finish the job you were working on.
other wise if you have a Fr-300,,, they cost more, Parts can get to you pretty fast… Parts cost more… The heater lasts about 50% longer then the S-993A… i don't know its a wash… The S-993A has good suction and does deliver a healthy amount to heat witch is a good thing. i bought a whole new back up FR-300, so now i have 2of those, little more redundancy.
Also around the same time i bought this S-993A, 110v version just as picture above, and i had burn the heater out of it as well…
so i have only used the S-993A about half the amount of time as i have used the FR-300, and both heaters burnt out after a little over a year.
so the original cost of the FR-300 was around $300, The S-993A was about $100.00
Basically because the S-993A only came with a 2.0 mm tip, I just used that for Analog boards, because bigger tips are needed anyways.
the Fr-300 came with a 1.0mm tip… and i would say over the time i have used it, i'v bought 2 additional 1.0mm tips… sometimes they get so screwed up, plugged up
you just can't get it clean and once you break the tip cleaner off in the tip its toast… you can drill it out but… the tip cleaner is weird metal...
so i ended up getting one of these and use it after about every job.
( for the FR-300 )
it helps to keep the tip from getting out of control plugged.
also the last 2 replacement tips i got were 1.0mm elongated slim nose… really helps when trying to get between narrow legs of I/C's
the stock 1.0mm tip, it kind of a fat nose and can cause issues.
so when the heater went out on the FR-300, it was about $65 dollars, and was here in able 3 days.
http://www.bdent.com/hakko-a5000-heater-core.html
the gun is designed to be torn down, and serviced, witch is kind of nice.
The S-993A heater was $15 plus $6 dollars shipping and took DAM near a month to get from china.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361249327143?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
its not as easy or as friendly to take apart, i had to use my fr-300 to desolder the power and temp wires, there was no quick disconnects like with the hakko.
while i was waiting for the heater to drive for the S-993A i decided to order a 1.0mm slim tip for it, and so i can start using it more with MB's instead of just with A/B's
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111334870055?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410319590384&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
this was $7.99 plus $2.99 shipping.
anyways, so i finally got both guns back together… and i just desoldered about 160 pins with the S-993a and the new 1.0mm slim tip and i'd say it works pretty good really.
also i wanted to toss out there the Filter the S-993a comes with is a joke… basically you can shove the standard hakko FR-300/808 style of filter in the tube and they work just fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141116538218?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
so long and short of it … if you plan to use these things regularly you want to make sure to have tips and heaters on hand… especially for the S-993a because it takes so long to receive things from china, you don't want to be down, and waiting for parts to finish the job you were working on.
other wise if you have a Fr-300,,, they cost more, Parts can get to you pretty fast… Parts cost more… The heater lasts about 50% longer then the S-993A… i don't know its a wash… The S-993A has good suction and does deliver a healthy amount to heat witch is a good thing. i bought a whole new back up FR-300, so now i have 2of those, little more redundancy.
I wonder why your heaters burned out? The one in my 808 is still going. And I use the hell out of it.
My tip also burned out about two months ago. One of the reasons they do that is probably the warning that came with mine stating that unnecessarily playing with the temperature control shortens the life of the windings.
Still, at $15 I can buy four replacements for the price of one hakko.
Still, at $15 I can buy four replacements for the price of one hakko.
I would say a contributing factor to the heaters death Is the fact that when I come in to the shop I turn on my equipment on and leave it on, docked. so I'm ready to rock 'n roll . One thing I will say about the S993A that one millimeter tip that I bought makes the gun so much more useful when working on any board that has multiple layers . So pick yourself up one of those 1 mm tips along with maybe a couple extra heaters . But overall I think the S993 a is a very worthy contender. Otherwise the 2 mm tip that it comes with works just great for analog boards. Or you know basic single layer through hole stuff.
yea I never leave anything on. I learned that lesson the hard way. my old old house, dad had a shop out in the shed and I caught the sucker on fire leaving an old ratshack iron on by accident. I was a kid then.
If the hakko isnt powerful enough to suck up the solder with its default setting, I use a heatgun assistance method. Pre-heat the board while desoldering.
works wonders.
OH BTW, I did break off a cleaner inside my original tip. I had to use a bench vice and a pick tool, tap the fucker out of there. That was nuts.
I have a 1MM tip that I ordered when the original one went bad, and I have a couple 2.5MM tips. They arnt designed for the 808 but they do fit. Only complaint is the solder gets around the evacuation tube a little bit, Well its not for the 808 so I cant complain.
I have already had to disassemble and replace the valve reeds twice in the pump. Thats how often I use it.
If the hakko isnt powerful enough to suck up the solder with its default setting, I use a heatgun assistance method. Pre-heat the board while desoldering.
works wonders.
OH BTW, I did break off a cleaner inside my original tip. I had to use a bench vice and a pick tool, tap the fucker out of there. That was nuts.
I have a 1MM tip that I ordered when the original one went bad, and I have a couple 2.5MM tips. They arnt designed for the 808 but they do fit. Only complaint is the solder gets around the evacuation tube a little bit, Well its not for the 808 so I cant complain.
I have already had to disassemble and replace the valve reeds twice in the pump. Thats how often I use it.
Yeah the 808 is built like a harley.
I just ordered one of those S993a's, hope it works well.
Yup and like I said you can use those Hakko 808 filters I would order yourself up a 1 mm tip because the one that comes with this too big and get yourself an other heater on the way to keep around and you should have yourself a nice set up
I'm waiting to get it an test it out before I stock up on extra supplies. I assume the parts will be around a while. Had a $100 voucher from ebay and decided to get this with it.
ok well if you don't at least get that 1mm tip its going to piss you off. -- I'm just saying. 
its stock tip is way to big for anything on a PCB.
unless you have apple analog boards lined up to do... Even those LC TDK powersuplies... the tip is to big for anything on that pcb.
when it comes in the temp dial is set to 400c, its good to back it down. aim the arrow toward the LED heater light.
400C is nuts. Ordered the 1mm tip.
Fold old boards I have been using an old Radio Shack desoldering iron with the manual bulb at the end with great results (lead solder). The hole is bigger then 1mm for sure but the suction and easy melting old solder works out well. I removed a Nubus connector from an old Micronet SCSI card and put on a new one using it and didn't go crazy. On the PC side of things the silver solder (especially oxidized) on newer boards is almost impossible to remove without using some extra solder to heat up the joints so that's why I am getting this. There are so many motherboards with bad capacitors out there that are an easy fix.
I don't do reworking for a living, just to fix my vast collections of boards and stuff.
Fold old boards I have been using an old Radio Shack desoldering iron with the manual bulb at the end with great results (lead solder). The hole is bigger then 1mm for sure but the suction and easy melting old solder works out well. I removed a Nubus connector from an old Micronet SCSI card and put on a new one using it and didn't go crazy. On the PC side of things the silver solder (especially oxidized) on newer boards is almost impossible to remove without using some extra solder to heat up the joints so that's why I am getting this. There are so many motherboards with bad capacitors out there that are an easy fix.
I don't do reworking for a living, just to fix my vast collections of boards and stuff.
wow, my hats off to you.
Yes your crazy… you can't go crazy if you are already…. LOL
it might even make you smile!
L O L
Yes your crazy… you can't go crazy if you are already….
LOLoh yeah i hear ya… well then your gonna be a happy camper with this.
it might even make you smile!
Came in today, have to get some time to play with it.
awesome, i keep mine between 375 and 400c, that way its got enough stored up thermal energy to suck out 4 layer & GRD planes. but my new 1mm tip already turned purple.. kinda freaky. it still works like a champ… as long as i keep the tip clean and tinned.
I should probably get one of these at some point.
It should last me a long time, since I don't really need it all too often.
c
It should last me a long time, since I don't really need it all too often.
c
I am thinking about getting a pencil/small type heatgun, and strapping it to the side of my hakko.
This way, any time I run into issues with multilayer boards, I can preheat.
I do that now, but it takes both of my hands = not elegant.
I never get the tip hot enough to power through multilayer boards by itself. For one thats a bad idea as its hard on parts, and two thats an extremely localized spot for a heat source and can break hairline traces in the inner layers of the board due to thermal shock, if they connect to that point.
been there, done that.
This way, any time I run into issues with multilayer boards, I can preheat.
I do that now, but it takes both of my hands = not elegant.
I never get the tip hot enough to power through multilayer boards by itself. For one thats a bad idea as its hard on parts, and two thats an extremely localized spot for a heat source and can break hairline traces in the inner layers of the board due to thermal shock, if they connect to that point.
been there, done that.
well sounds like you have a method to ur madness
Pushing the envelope of PCB rework tolerances? ;D
JT you should buy one.
Now I need a cheap hot air rework station.
I'm thinking if you ebay x-tronic... you will get one that is pretty good quality...
i'm pretty sure that you want the one that pushes the air to the wand, from inside the unit.
the ones for 59 dollars that have the blower inside the wand might have some quality issues.
iv bought 2 of that kind, the super cheap kind with the blower in the wand. and haven't see first hand any issue with em.
BMOW has one... my wife has the other.
Sounds like Others had quality issues with the cheap cheap ones.
i'm pretty sure that you want the one that pushes the air to the wand, from inside the unit.
the ones for 59 dollars that have the blower inside the wand might have some quality issues.
iv bought 2 of that kind, the super cheap kind with the blower in the wand. and haven't see first hand any issue with em.
BMOW has one... my wife has the other.
Sounds like Others had quality issues with the cheap cheap ones.
