Posting from my Cube now. It was loaded with 10.4.something, and Software Update is doing its magic in the background.
Seems like this came along just in time, as my iMac has just carked it.
Given that yours are just straight speakers wired to a funky we-must-be-different Apple connector, you should be able to just strip the wires and connect them direct to an appropriately rated amplifier. I may do that to mine at some stage - but wire in a plug and socket so I can re-connect them to the Cube amp when I want to.
A less destructive alternative would be to desolder the socket from a dead compatible Mac motherboard and wire up your own adapter: to RCA plugs, bare wires, jacks, or direct into a kit amp.
The speakers are 10 watts each - no idea if they are 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance. I'm not about to slice up my new shinies to measure them directly, sorry
You should be able to measure them yourself with a multimeter - set it to resistance and poke random pairs of the connectors on the plug. You'll either read 0, infinity, or, when you hit the right pair, something close to either 4 or 8 (maybe 16). And then let me know
The iMac slotloader speakers are about 2.5W 4 ohm: power deduced from the fact that there are four of them in each of the 10W a side SoundSticks, and impedance (resistance)* measured myself.
Remember - an amp rated for more power (watts) per channel is -less- likely to damage your speakers than one rated for lower power. Counterintuitive but true - it's overdriving a puny amp that fries speakers. On the other hand, don't try to run 4 ohm speakers from an 8 ohm amplifier - you risk frying the amp. If it says it'll do 4 ohms and 8 (often 4-16ohm), and >10W a side, then you're golden.
* Yes, i know impedance and resistance are not the same thing. The approximation you get by reading their DC resistance is close enough
Seems like this came along just in time, as my iMac has just carked it.
~Coxy: the info I gave you above is a little off: the Cube speakers and the Apple Pro Speakers that came with the iLamp are not the same item. However, according to the link below, the actual speaker part of the speakers should be the same as yours, even though they connect to the Mac differently:
Harman/Kardon Compatibility Guide
Given that yours are just straight speakers wired to a funky we-must-be-different Apple connector, you should be able to just strip the wires and connect them direct to an appropriately rated amplifier. I may do that to mine at some stage - but wire in a plug and socket so I can re-connect them to the Cube amp when I want to.
A less destructive alternative would be to desolder the socket from a dead compatible Mac motherboard and wire up your own adapter: to RCA plugs, bare wires, jacks, or direct into a kit amp.
NB the article is from 2001, so I guess the iLamp wasn't out then.
The speakers are 10 watts each - no idea if they are 4 ohm or 8 ohm impedance. I'm not about to slice up my new shinies to measure them directly, sorry
You should be able to measure them yourself with a multimeter - set it to resistance and poke random pairs of the connectors on the plug. You'll either read 0, infinity, or, when you hit the right pair, something close to either 4 or 8 (maybe 16). And then let me know The iMac slotloader speakers are about 2.5W 4 ohm: power deduced from the fact that there are four of them in each of the 10W a side SoundSticks, and impedance (resistance)* measured myself.
Remember - an amp rated for more power (watts) per channel is -less- likely to damage your speakers than one rated for lower power. Counterintuitive but true - it's overdriving a puny amp that fries speakers. On the other hand, don't try to run 4 ohm speakers from an 8 ohm amplifier - you risk frying the amp. If it says it'll do 4 ohms and 8 (often 4-16ohm), and >10W a side, then you're golden.
* Yes, i know impedance and resistance are not the same thing. The approximation you get by reading their DC resistance is close enough