Skip to main content
Home Forums 68kMLA Bad Capcitors in Mac Classic — #4
Post #4 by JRL
Source Forum68kMLA
CategoryHardware
Post DateFri, 27 Nov 2009 - 21:37
Original URLhttps://68kmla.org/bb/threads/bad-capcitors-in-mac-classic.19139/
Post
Hmm... I think that the jittering issue is caused by the analog board. While you only really need to recap the analog board, you're best off recapping both.

AFAIK, it's one cap that causes the jittering; let me check.

Edit: Yup, it's here. Actually you just need to fix some cold solder joints. (quoted from tomlee59's great Compact Mac repair guide)

4.1 No display; Wobbly display; Single vertical line down the middle If the Mac seems to function well (e.g., you hear the boot bong, disk accesses occur the

way they should, etc.), but has certain display problems, this section is for you. Many dis-

play-related problems are due to the notoriously unreliable solder joints on the yoke con-

nector J1. These should always be resoldered as a matter of course because a visual

inspection does not always reveal problems such as hairline cracks. Flakiness here results

in symptoms that include an intermittent raster, wobbly/shaky/jittery raster, no raster,

uncorrectably narrow raster, or a single vertical line down the center of the CRT. Quite

commonly, slapping the side of the Mac can make these symptoms come and go if the

connector is indeed the problem. Without question, this is the most common fault with the

analog board. It’s sad that so many old Macs are tossed in the trash because of this prob-

lem, because it’s trivial to fix, most of the time.

To repair, simply freshen up the yoke’s four solder connections to the analog board, while

leaving the connector halves mated, or else the heat will melt the connector plastic and distort its shape. You’ll never be able to reconnect the two halves if you fail to fol-

low this advice.

And don’t be lazy and simply reheat the old solder that’s there -- use new solder. Use

enough heat/duration to get the solder to flow well, leaving a shiny, smooth surface upon

cooling. After it’s cooled down, disconnect the two halves and inspect the four mating

pairs of contacts for signs of oxidation or burning. Repair or replace as necessary. If you

can’t locate a replacement (or don’t want to wait for one), you can always simply hard-

wire the connections (e.g., desolder J1 from the analog board, remove its mate from the

yoke cable assembly, and just solder the four yoke wires directly to the analog board). The

drawback is that if you need to remove the analog board later for some reason, you’ll have

to undo the connections.
mp.ls