You can avoid the CRT altogether if you're just working on the logic board. You won't need to remove the CRT or the analog board to access it.
I don't normally discharge my CRTs. SEs made in 1988 or later and all subsequent compact models (SE/30, Classic, Classic II) have self-discharging CRTs. I use an insulated pair of pliers to carefully remove the anode cap from the CRT. I've never been shocked using this method and have worked on dozens of compacts.
On earlier Macs, I usually just wait about 2-3 weeks after the machine has last been plugged in to work on it. Keep in mind that to start the discharge process (on either a self-discharger or an earlier model), you actually have to unplug the Mac from the outlet--simply shutting off the switch won't do it.
Personally, I feel the discharge process (with tools or modified screwdrivers) is more trouble than it's worth. As Trag pointed out, it's often riskier than trusting the self discharge or waiting for the Mac to discharge itself!
The riskiest maneuver on a compact is adjusting a CRT yoke, since you'll need to have the Mac on to do it properly and will be touching part of the CRT near the anode cap to adjust it. (This goes for the centering rings on these CRTs too, although there are controls on Classics that largely eliminate the use of these). Even if you avoid the anode cap, you'll still have charged capacitors to deal with on the analog board. (I got zapped by one in a Classic II many years ago).
I don't normally discharge my CRTs. SEs made in 1988 or later and all subsequent compact models (SE/30, Classic, Classic II) have self-discharging CRTs. I use an insulated pair of pliers to carefully remove the anode cap from the CRT. I've never been shocked using this method and have worked on dozens of compacts.
On earlier Macs, I usually just wait about 2-3 weeks after the machine has last been plugged in to work on it. Keep in mind that to start the discharge process (on either a self-discharger or an earlier model), you actually have to unplug the Mac from the outlet--simply shutting off the switch won't do it.
Personally, I feel the discharge process (with tools or modified screwdrivers) is more trouble than it's worth. As Trag pointed out, it's often riskier than trusting the self discharge or waiting for the Mac to discharge itself!
The riskiest maneuver on a compact is adjusting a CRT yoke, since you'll need to have the Mac on to do it properly and will be touching part of the CRT near the anode cap to adjust it. (This goes for the centering rings on these CRTs too, although there are controls on Classics that largely eliminate the use of these). Even if you avoid the anode cap, you'll still have charged capacitors to deal with on the analog board. (I got zapped by one in a Classic II many years ago).