The "danger spot" is the anode cap, which looks like a large red suction cup. It can only fry you if the machine is plugged in. As Mk. 558 said, most newer CRTs will self-discharge. I believe all Classics, SE/30s, and SEs with newer analog boards will self-discharge. (I've heard conflicting reports about 1984-1987 manufacture Macs, so for those I usually just leave them unplugged for about 3 days; never have had a problem with one even when working on the CRT). I never use the actual discharge tool.
You won't be anywhere near the anode cap with the work you describe. If by some chance you do need to ever replace your CRT, you should be fine as long as the machine is unplugged. I've done tons of work with anode caps inside these Macs (which has involved touching them) and have yet to even feel the tiniest shock.
The area where you want to use caution is if you're ever adjusting a "live" CRT's geometry (that is, positioning the centering rings, adjusting the yoke, or fiddling with the square magnets around the CRT's neck while the machine is on). Again, just use common sense and caution--avoid the anode cap and analog board (some components can give you a jolt when it's on--know this from experience) and be careful with the positioning of your hands.
You won't be anywhere near the anode cap with the work you describe. If by some chance you do need to ever replace your CRT, you should be fine as long as the machine is unplugged. I've done tons of work with anode caps inside these Macs (which has involved touching them) and have yet to even feel the tiniest shock.
The area where you want to use caution is if you're ever adjusting a "live" CRT's geometry (that is, positioning the centering rings, adjusting the yoke, or fiddling with the square magnets around the CRT's neck while the machine is on). Again, just use common sense and caution--avoid the anode cap and analog board (some components can give you a jolt when it's on--know this from experience) and be careful with the positioning of your hands.