Front panel Retrobrite questions

Obviously I mean the gel :beige:

There are holes for the floppy drive, volume knob, and speaker grills in the front case, no way to make those water tight and the metal frame will react with the peroxide in seconds. If you are not going to do it correctly don't do it at all.

I removed the CRT from the front panel without removing any wires from the power section. All you do is remove the metal frame to get to the 4 screws holding the CRT to the front plastics and them slide the power section and CRT board off the plastics at the same time moving the crt to something soft so you don't scratch the face. Make sure you don't screw up the volume knob putting it all back together.

Ok - i'll avoid that idea...just wanted to be sure. Thanks.

Is there a agreed upon *best* formula? I've heard 12% h202, 3%?, oxy clean xanthum gum, corn starch etc...

Is it ok to get it on the labels ?

I did mine entirely un-scientifically. I used a dish full of 40 volume creme developer with a couple of teaspoons of oxy clean powder mixed in. I brushed it on the disassembled case then kept it wet and in the sun for a day and it worked fine.

How did the printing on the front and the apple logo turn out?

I popped the logo out (paper clip through the hole on the back side). No effect on the printing whatsoever.

All you need to know about the liquid or gel forms of RetroBright is presented in the following 2 threads:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10982&start=0

viewtopic.php?p=142395#p142395

Might want to try the official Retr0bright Wiki Here, as it has very informative instructions, and really explains the science on how it actually works.

Try doing it on a weekend at home where you have lots of free time.

It also goes a lot easier when the sun is up.

Take care with that "official" RetroBright Wiki though. I read through that in its entirety prior to deyellowing myself. That "official" Wiki pitches the idea that 10% or greater strengths of H202 are required to deyellow, which is not the case. You only need the off-the-shelf 3% stuff like I used. How did I know this before I used it? Easy. Our very own LumpyDog here on 68kMLA posted his findings first, showing that concentrations of 3% or less of H202 work fine. I built on his work and found it to be true, both for the Liquid and Gel forms of RetroBright. Further, the "official" RetroBright Wiki says that "corn starch may work" but they've never tried it. Funny they still have that posted there in light of the fact I posted my findings on 3% H202 + Corn Starch in their very own forums!

So take the "official" RetroBright site with a grain of salt, and then proceed to use the 3% stuff. It works fine if you do it right. And keep in mind that if you use the higher 10% or 15% or even 30% concentrations in the "official" RetroBright Wiki recipes, you have to be even more careful to avoid "blooming" (a condition that cannot be remedied, as your plastics will be forever damaged). The worst that can happy with a low concentration H202 mix (i.e., 3%) is that your plastic is not deyellowed enough, in which case the solution is simply -- just give it another deyellowing session and you're done.