1.) Check the P-RAM battery. Voltage must be at 3.67V up to 3.8V at maximum. If not, replace the battery and don't forget to press the PMU reset button once for about a second.
2.) One thing to keep in mind is that all models of iMac G3s across the board will suffer (or have suffered) the death of their P.A.V. (Power Analog Video) Board. When this happens, successful power up or normal startup is one-in-a-million to nill. In your case, the symptoms you describe warrant the need to check if it's bad. In more severe cases, you will hear a single zap or click, followed by the power button turning either orange or lighting up for a second and shutting off. You'll need to match part for part, when it comes to PAV Boards. Apple had 2 different part numbers for this part: one with a toggle switch and one without. This was due to Apple using 2 different companies making CRTs: LG and CPT.
3.) Check the Down Convertor board, attached to the logic board. Sometimes these go bad and throw off the rest of the iMac.
Here is a link for where to get the service manual and tear-down procedures. They should cover Rev. A through Rev. C and D (iMac G3 Summer 2001). You can also go to http://www.ifixit.com and they post take apart steps for these iMacs as well, but may not go as far as access to the PAV Board and CRT.
So, go grab a multimeter and start narrowing down where your trouble is. Use the Troubleshooting section within the service manuals in the first link to help navigate what to test and where. Let us know what you find. We'll be here to help.
73s de Phreakout. :rambo:
2.) One thing to keep in mind is that all models of iMac G3s across the board will suffer (or have suffered) the death of their P.A.V. (Power Analog Video) Board. When this happens, successful power up or normal startup is one-in-a-million to nill. In your case, the symptoms you describe warrant the need to check if it's bad. In more severe cases, you will hear a single zap or click, followed by the power button turning either orange or lighting up for a second and shutting off. You'll need to match part for part, when it comes to PAV Boards. Apple had 2 different part numbers for this part: one with a toggle switch and one without. This was due to Apple using 2 different companies making CRTs: LG and CPT.
3.) Check the Down Convertor board, attached to the logic board. Sometimes these go bad and throw off the rest of the iMac.
Here is a link for where to get the service manual and tear-down procedures. They should cover Rev. A through Rev. C and D (iMac G3 Summer 2001). You can also go to http://www.ifixit.com and they post take apart steps for these iMacs as well, but may not go as far as access to the PAV Board and CRT.
So, go grab a multimeter and start narrowing down where your trouble is. Use the Troubleshooting section within the service manuals in the first link to help navigate what to test and where. Let us know what you find. We'll be here to help.
73s de Phreakout. :rambo: