Thread
Just overclocked my Pismo
After about 15 minutes of prep/soldering, I bumped up my Pismo to 500Mhz from 400Mhz.
so the setup is:
PowerBook G3 500Mhz/1MB L2
100Mhz FSB
768MB RAM (256MB lower slot, 512MB upper)
80GB 7200RPM HDD, DVD/CD-RW Slot-load optical, brand new 6500Mah battery, original G3 Pismo powerbook power adapter (black brick). 14" LCD. ATI Rage 128M 8MB AGP 2x Graphics card
Airport, 10/100 Fast Ethernet, 2x FW400 ports, 2x USB 1.1 ports, USB 2.0 PC Card, Belkin 802.11b/g PC Card (in case I need G access). Sound in/out, 56Kbps Modem
It's actually quite a bit quicker than the 400Mhz. Windows are slightly more responsive under OS X, typing keeps up now in web browsers, and it loads pages quicker. Not bad...
so the setup is:
PowerBook G3 500Mhz/1MB L2
100Mhz FSB
768MB RAM (256MB lower slot, 512MB upper)
80GB 7200RPM HDD, DVD/CD-RW Slot-load optical, brand new 6500Mah battery, original G3 Pismo powerbook power adapter (black brick). 14" LCD. ATI Rage 128M 8MB AGP 2x Graphics card
Airport, 10/100 Fast Ethernet, 2x FW400 ports, 2x USB 1.1 ports, USB 2.0 PC Card, Belkin 802.11b/g PC Card (in case I need G access). Sound in/out, 56Kbps Modem
It's actually quite a bit quicker than the 400Mhz. Windows are slightly more responsive under OS X, typing keeps up now in web browsers, and it loads pages quicker. Not bad...
Can you share how you did this?
On the backside of the daughterboard there are a series of jumpers (under the SoDIMM slot) that have the jumpers labeled with numbers.
it's Jumper 127 that needs to de-soldered and moved to the left (to 130) that will up it. It's a series of three pad
like
--x
x--
x--
x--
--x
x--
above is not a valid jumper position, but you will see three pads, and whether the resisters are from the middle to the right, or middle to the left determines which setting it is
if you see the jumper 127/130 pins, you desolder the jumper going from the middle across to the right pad, then move it over to the left going to middle (and the right pad has nothing) it will set the CPU to 500Mhz
The resister can be put in any polarity (i confirmed this with my dad) so if you get it turned around, it will still work.
Another option to do that is to remove the resister altogether, and use a lead pencil to jumper (supposedly it puts the right resistance on the laptop)
The heat hasn't jumped up on the laptop, I have had no freezing, but keep in mind it will use slightly more power, and the results may not be the same for everyone. Some people have reported that their machine won't start unless the 400 is at 400 or 450, but not at 500Mhz. Mine started right up at 500Mhz.
It is very hard to work with this and you need a really itty-bitty tip or you could damage it. I suppose if you sent me your daughter board, I can do it for you for $15 with return shipping. I would gladly do it for you. I would also test it in my machine to make sure it will work. PM me if you want this, and I can do it. I have my own weller temp-controlled soldering station that I do this with, and i have a replaceable tip that goes down to a fine point.
it's Jumper 127 that needs to de-soldered and moved to the left (to 130) that will up it. It's a series of three pad
like
--x
x--
x--
x--
--x
x--
above is not a valid jumper position, but you will see three pads, and whether the resisters are from the middle to the right, or middle to the left determines which setting it is
if you see the jumper 127/130 pins, you desolder the jumper going from the middle across to the right pad, then move it over to the left going to middle (and the right pad has nothing) it will set the CPU to 500Mhz
The resister can be put in any polarity (i confirmed this with my dad) so if you get it turned around, it will still work.
Another option to do that is to remove the resister altogether, and use a lead pencil to jumper (supposedly it puts the right resistance on the laptop)
The heat hasn't jumped up on the laptop, I have had no freezing, but keep in mind it will use slightly more power, and the results may not be the same for everyone. Some people have reported that their machine won't start unless the 400 is at 400 or 450, but not at 500Mhz. Mine started right up at 500Mhz.
It is very hard to work with this and you need a really itty-bitty tip or you could damage it. I suppose if you sent me your daughter board, I can do it for you for $15 with return shipping. I would gladly do it for you. I would also test it in my machine to make sure it will work. PM me if you want this, and I can do it. I have my own weller temp-controlled soldering station that I do this with, and i have a replaceable tip that goes down to a fine point.
Does anyone know if this is possible on a Wallstreet? How does the Wallstreet's cooling compare to the Pismo's for this purpose?
I will check my Wallstreet for those jumpers when I get a chance.
I will check my Wallstreet for those jumpers when I get a chance.
That's great coius, of the 3 - 4 Pismo machines I've come across, I could never get them to go anywhere - apart from the 400's going to 450. 400-->500 and stock 500 --> 550 resulted in dumping to open firmware and/or random chiming.