The tho halves of the case are welded, so brute force is required to open it.
The vise seems to be the best way to open power bricks, just clamp the brick near the junction point and apply pressure.
once you are inside, you need to desolder a little "tab" holding the bottom shield, then you can lift one side of shield and replace the two capacitors (one on the left and one on the right).
The interesting fact about this power brick is that inside there are two separate and independent power supplies, so it's possible that one is failed and the other one still works fine. The input protection, filtering and rectification (essentially the "primary" side) is in common between the two supplies, the rest is separate.
Maybe (haven't looked at the circuit in detail) the two (100uF) leaking capacitors are used for "bootstrapping" the supply when it's turned on. If that capacitor is bad, your power supply won't start and you will get nothing on the output.
The vise seems to be the best way to open power bricks, just clamp the brick near the junction point and apply pressure.
once you are inside, you need to desolder a little "tab" holding the bottom shield, then you can lift one side of shield and replace the two capacitors (one on the left and one on the right).
The interesting fact about this power brick is that inside there are two separate and independent power supplies, so it's possible that one is failed and the other one still works fine. The input protection, filtering and rectification (essentially the "primary" side) is in common between the two supplies, the rest is separate.
Maybe (haven't looked at the circuit in detail) the two (100uF) leaking capacitors are used for "bootstrapping" the supply when it's turned on. If that capacitor is bad, your power supply won't start and you will get nothing on the output.