mine does the same exact thing, and I havent traced down yet whats causing it.
as far as the flyback is concerned, you need to tighten up the core. Either wedge it to one side, and epoxy it in, or chisel away the old epoxy that has let go, and make a non-ferrous shim. itll kill the wine. I used to do this on old TVs back in the day. I believe the wine is cause by eddy currents/resonance occurring in the loose ferrite core.
Now keep in mind, raster blooming and brightness fluctuations are VERY DIFFERENT animals. raster blooming is caused by poor HV regulation/drop in HV or B+ going to the scan supply.
if the geometry is unaffected, and its "just" the brightness, the problem is in the video amplifier/driver circuits or supply. which is my case. Then again, it could be cuased by the motherboard as well, because i haven't had a chance to recap my CC yet and it just suddenly died and wont power up after putting it in storage for awhile. It worked before. lol. but thats ALWAYS the case these days.
I think the rule of thumb these days is this: Any aluminum electrolytic whether it be SMD or radial/axial through hole type, from the 80s/90s needs replaced by now. period. end of story. Some industrial grade capacitors are still holding up from ancient electronics rather well, but most consumer/commercial grade caps are shot by now. Of course everyone is going to have their own opinion on this matter because i do understand that some caps are just fine, while other shot, etc... but from a technicians standpoint, its just easier to restore your electronics and replace them all if you want it to last for another 20 years.
Oh, on a personal note, its been a long enough time now, that even the 5XXX machines are being affected. I just happened to pull out my old junker 5200 board i had laying around for parts, as i dont have a machine it goes to anymore. Noticed it has capacitor "goo" starting to flow.
as far as the flyback is concerned, you need to tighten up the core. Either wedge it to one side, and epoxy it in, or chisel away the old epoxy that has let go, and make a non-ferrous shim. itll kill the wine. I used to do this on old TVs back in the day. I believe the wine is cause by eddy currents/resonance occurring in the loose ferrite core.
Now keep in mind, raster blooming and brightness fluctuations are VERY DIFFERENT animals. raster blooming is caused by poor HV regulation/drop in HV or B+ going to the scan supply.
if the geometry is unaffected, and its "just" the brightness, the problem is in the video amplifier/driver circuits or supply. which is my case. Then again, it could be cuased by the motherboard as well, because i haven't had a chance to recap my CC yet and it just suddenly died and wont power up after putting it in storage for awhile. It worked before. lol. but thats ALWAYS the case these days.
I think the rule of thumb these days is this: Any aluminum electrolytic whether it be SMD or radial/axial through hole type, from the 80s/90s needs replaced by now. period. end of story. Some industrial grade capacitors are still holding up from ancient electronics rather well, but most consumer/commercial grade caps are shot by now. Of course everyone is going to have their own opinion on this matter because i do understand that some caps are just fine, while other shot, etc... but from a technicians standpoint, its just easier to restore your electronics and replace them all if you want it to last for another 20 years.
Oh, on a personal note, its been a long enough time now, that even the 5XXX machines are being affected. I just happened to pull out my old junker 5200 board i had laying around for parts, as i dont have a machine it goes to anymore. Noticed it has capacitor "goo" starting to flow.