Capacitor Replacement Thread . . .

Formatting tests:

I really like the individual pics of components that are cropping up.

A table of DigiKey/North American, ____?____/AUS, ____?____/EEU order numbers/quantities/descriptions/pictures would be most excellent.

Nicely done visual documentation: Caps! IIcx -- IIci

placeholder

I would like to help with this if at all possible, However I am confused as to what i am suppose to do.

That's what we're going to figure out first. Start by searching out all the good threads related to re-capping, post'em and we'll get started from there! [] ]'>

The A/B recap thread is close to what I'd like to see. The only thing missing, from a cursory look see, is the MoBo shot with arrows/info boxes aimed at every cap.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18835#p177792

By diagram, you mean like this?

EDIT: Seems the diagram has some additional compression artifacts that weren't present awhile back...oh well on the other link in my signature there is a link to the AppleWorks version.

Thanks for that removal link, that was one of the ones I wanted to get posted.

I like your diagram, but it's a little more intimidating than what I was thinking because of the information density and presentation.

I'll play a bit in illustrator and post something.

Well yes, I will confess that the image is quite crammed and a bit on the "unprofessional" side...not to mention the load of color will guarantee a well-soaked page fresh out of the inkjet...Looks great on the computer screen, rubbish on paper (I personally have never printed it).

As I lack the skillset to make professional-grade material, it's the best I can do, and I was originally trying to make it fit on a Letter (US) size page, but I was eventually forced to go with Legal.

Maybe two A4 pages would be better?

Certainly, anybody is free to download the AppleWorks version (or if you don't have it, I can cut all the text out of it for you, and pluck out the raster images if need be) and improve upon it. The only thing is that the logic board image comes from JDW so permission from him would probably be respectable.

you should at the top post links to commonly needed caps

like from digikey:

16v 47uf

16v 10uf

16v 1uf

the panasonic, +/- 20% OEM replacement alum can types and the tantalum kind

Mcdermd knows exactly the ones.

also these as well just not as many as above.

16v 220uf

16v 470uf

http://www.badcaps.net/

NB: not an endorsement from me of either the information or the sales from this site; just looks useful.

Trash,

For those needing further detailed diagnoses, would posting the entire schematics of a machine be allowed as well? I've got a backup of the entire blueprints for the SE/30 if you'd like. Not sure if it would violate 68kmla post policy, though. :-/

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

I am a proponent of polymer SMD caps that look like the original *evil* caps } . I wanted to keep my logic board (socketed) looking closer to stock and I also read here about tantalum caps potentially having catastrophic failures. I posted the part numbers I used here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18318#p173029

Here is my suggestion for badly corroded cap jobs,

Again this is my suggestion, might not be yours, just sharing from my hands-on experience.

make sure when you do the se/30 that you just don't mess around and twist off the old caps, don't try to heat them up and remove.. just twist the bastards off, if you lift a pad doing it , it was going to happen anyways. but unless they are mostly corroded off, you will not have any issues with pads.

if you have a buffer wheel for your dremel its good to polish the pads once you twist them off, it gets the corrosion from the leaked electrolyte, makes better contact with the soldering iron. makes your life way more easy when putting the new ones back on.

Flux always helps the solder flow it helps make your life easier.

. . . Not sure if it would violate 68kmla post policy, though. :-/

Click to expand...

Nice! That's a wonderful offer and very nicely done in terms of restraint in waiting for approval, comrade. I'll defer judgement on that issue to Joint Force Command.

It will likely boil down to whether this is a reverse engineered schematic or one smuggled out of the Infinite Loopiness, carrying Intellectual Property Notice/Copyright baggage along on its underground railroad ride.

Forward the relevant info on this issue to Cory in PM for determination and all remains cool. :beige:

Um, on second thought, possibly not. After looking through the GIFs of the schematics, they do show " Apple Computer, Inc." in the lower right-hand corner of each page. It doesn't appear to be a reverse engineer from a 3rd party, like Bomarc Services (http://www.bomarc.org). They currently have both the logic board and analog board dissected and recompiled into their own schematics.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

Thanks for checking for Intellectual Property notification and for that Bomarc Services link.

I remember seeing some of that contraband posted somewhere on the web. You're right, it's best to leave that kind of info floating on the breeze in the clouds rather than posting it here.

Any direct linkage would clearly violate the rules and be shot down immediately.

Here is my suggestion for badly corroded cap jobs,
Again this is my suggestion, might not be yours, just sharing from my hands-on experience.

make sure when you do the se/30 that you just don't mess around and twist off the old caps, don't try to heat them up and remove.. just twist the bastards off, if you lift a pad doing it , it was going to happen anyways. but unless they are mostly corroded off, you will not have any issues with pads.

Click to expand...

I agree. Although, I am finding that it may be better to try cutting the old caps off, like what Mk.558 has posted.

If you have a buffer wheel for your dremel its good to polish the pads once you twist them off, it gets the corrosion from the leaked electrolyte, makes better contact with the soldering iron. makes your life way more easy when putting the new ones back on.
Flux always helps the solder flow it helps make your life easier.

Click to expand...

I agree as well. But to be more gentle on the board, use a small wire brush kit like this. Not saying to get that exact kit, but one similar to it. That one I posted is uber weak; no stiff strands of wire in that brush, compared to the previous model kit they carried. Also doesn't hurt to use a pencil eraser as well.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

"Don't copy that floppy or twist that cap."

I had some corroded pads that made it difficult to remove the remaining legs after doing the cut method. Covering the area with a flux pen and applying heat from the iron cleaned it up pretty well. Be gentle and let the heat and flux do the heavy lifting.

I found this at microcenter today,



they have a new section over in the Gamer section, all kinds of stuff, its like how radio shack used to be.

In this kit there is enough to do almost do 2 boards, maybe 3 boards depending on the board (all caps).

Obviously at 21 bucks its not that great of a deal, but its light years better then $1.67 a cap at RadioShack aka worst buy express.

and microcenter is open till 9 or later at most locations.

Amen to that. In a pinch, those caps will work. Don't know if they're any better than SMD orange colored tantalums I use (the same ones that trag uses). You'll just need to make sure you trim the leads short enough and make sure you install them in the right position: + to +, - to -. Duh.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

I got my sleeves up, and ready to recap this IIci board I got yesterday, ready to twist these leaky lil bastards off and solder up these new gems i found at microcenter.

I would be bummed out if I found a Christmas tree farm of BIG electrolytic caps on my board, but not as bummed as an irrepairable board due to capacitor acid leakage. I just posted the following elsewhere, but since this thread is a gathering of knowledge, I'll re-post here.

I'm thinking of going with aluminum organic polymers in the future. They're twice the price but have the stock look and my understanding is that they won't leak like an electrolytic will.

Click to expand...

Yeah, they do not have a fluid inside of them. They seem to get a good recommendation as a high reliability tantalum alternative from NASA:

A destructive test with massive current over stress to fail the polymer aluminum capacitors reveals that all polymer aluminum capacitors failed in a benign mode without ignition, combustion, or any other catastrophic failures.

Click to expand...

Apparently there are other polymer/aluminum constructions besides the aluminum can/wound structure as shown in the source doc. Here is another example:



Source: http://nepp.nasa.gov/files/20389/09_005_GSFC_Williams_Liu%20APC%20Final%20Report.pdf

More like dead Christmas trees. I did the IIci, with those microcenter caps, works great! made the leads longer and just laid the caps on their side that way they don't break off, I kinda got the idea from a board technight did. It'd great to have working softpower back and sound.



Some people here say not to twist the caps off, I twist every one off, every time. it works great,

also i leave the snapped off old leads on the pad, no reason to remove them.

- Twist Caps off

- Remove all debris

- Clean leaky goop with a damp paper towel

- buff off corrosion if there is any, or skip this step

- flux

- Swiftly heat up , apply fresh solder

- reflux

- set cap, and heat up each side, if you do it quick enough with the alum can kind it will sit nice and flat just like stock.

if you are not quick it will be crooked, but don't be anal, minimize how much heat you are putting into the pads!

if the cap is sitting cocked, but you can see the solder has flowed properly, and connected the lead to the pad, just leave it.

- I try to massively limit putting heat on the pad !

The more heat you put into the pad, the more likely it will lift.

Vary rarely do i lift a pad. But some days are bad days,

Also don't be a worry ward, just get in there an replace the caps.

some of you will fail, and even if you do there are pros out there like technight and phreakout that have blue prints

and they can use wirewrap and follow traces, if needed!

I received a IIci from captainbob , He gave it to me for free, lots of pads were ripped clean off. Someone had F^%$#^ this thing all up!

i did some very ugly re-work to make the connections still happen, I had to be vary patient! Was able to make all the connections, it works great now.

There are so many Capacitor threads and discussions so I don't know where this belongs now, but what about the Macintosh Plus?

I got a long list of capacitors for the International Macintosh Plus from an old thread in here, but I have problems finding all the parts. And some seems to not be in production any more. And I wan't to buy all of them at the same time because of shipping prices.

Where can I buy them?

A international Macintosh Plus capacitor list from another thread:

My feedback on this project:

The photos and the list of caps is really helpful. Being able to know ahead of time what I need to order before sitting down at the bench and disassembling the machine helps a lot.

The links to Mouser aluminum electrolytic caps was unexpected and a bit disappointing. An example: I was browsing the threads, and I've got a Classic that works but really should be recapped. I saw the Classic thread and thought "this is useful, I'll just click the links and order the caps so I have them on hand when I get around to replacing them". Then clicked on the link and was shocked and amazed to find tin cans. Replacing with those seems silly and pointless, so closed the window and gave up.

I'm not sure this is the best format though. This is what the wiki is for. Forums are not really conducive to this kind of reference documentation and collaboration. We've already got a bazillion comments in this and several of the other threads that are not relevant to the purpose of the thread, all of which must be sorted through just to find the useful bits of information. Including this one.

Honestly, when there is so much chaff to sort through, I'll just identify the caps myself.

Anytime anyone finds an old thread like Cosmo's, or a newer one that's helpful, please link to it in this thread. Then I can edit it into the IP and add a link to here from there. I'm trying to pull of fa ForumMicroWorldWideWeb for all things capacitor.

Thanks to everyone who's jumped in so far. One rally great contribution would be searching out and posting as many of the threads mentioned above for those who are not graphically or technically inclined, we can all help!

Because tin cans are oem stock replacement parts, by all means if you want to look up and add what you suggest, please do!

Rule #1 stands: No cost cutting parts listings or form factor substitutions allowed in this combined forces operation, for these reasons:

Only the best parts available should be posted for recap noobs like myself to read. I really don't want to supply information for cutting corners on quality. We're preserving Macs for posterity, so it's another 25 years of life expectancy for a specified part or nothing.

Anyone wanting to save money by buying parts of lesser quality can figure it out on their own. If they can't do that, as I can't (and do not wish to spend time on learning enough to do so) they shouldn't be questioning the cost of a recap, but should look at it as the cost of this information service. I don't want noobs (myself) confused by too much information posted in the articles headed into the WiKi.

Any implication that replacing caps that were made long enough ago and under quality controls that allowed them to last until now, or fairly recently, can be replaced with caps made under quality control tolerances meant for disposable consumer electronics with a 5 year/minus life expectancy are expressly verboten.

If mouser sells the good stuff, fine, maybe we can add them as an alternative, that' something to be determined. The minimum requirement for any article with its attendant list of links to hit the WiKi is a DigiKey order spec for North America and equivalent suppliers for the rest of the world's market areas.

Thank you all for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

More rules to be posted as the need arises.

My suggestion for the wiki was for ease of reference, as opposed to digging through all these posts of meta-discussion on how to post the information, and would avoid the flood of potentially dozens of new topics with one topic-per-model.

Don't get me wrong, the information is useful and I appreciate it. One topic-per-model in the forums just doesn't seem like the most useful presentation of the information. This is perfectly suited to the wiki where all the information is just right there, it can be linked to, people can add part links, etc. And none of the irrelevant peripheral discussion needs to clutter it up.

Alternatively, if it's meant for reference and you really want to use the forum, lock every caps topic, sticky them, and a mod can update links as needed.

Just suggestions, I'm not a mod, but as a user, I've kind of stopped reading new posts because my eyes glaze over on the flood of caps topics.

Wiki articles don't pop up finished unless a single individual goes through a lot of individual effort to do just one.

This started as a collaborative effort just to get the threads linked for wherever we have good info on the books ATM and to ask for a ways to format hard information for posting as topical threads in H&D or, as suggested, as articles in the WiKi.

I'm trying to organize an intercontinental joint forces op. Dunno if it will work out, but I thought it was certainly worth a try.

+1 to what bbraun said. jt, maybe just have a thread you own where the first post is a wiki, but you maintain. People can add info at the bottom and then you approve what goes into the first post.

Here are parts I ordered at Jameco.com. I think the parts are even less expensive now.

Well, since I don' no' nuthin' 'bout da Wikification process as yet, I think we'll keep this right here in H&D where I'm in my comfort zone. I'm not opposed to having the machine specific threads in the applicable forums, that's where they've always been since I've been here.

This thread is a clearinghouse/rally point.

Thanks for that listing,tt, Let's keep 'em coming in gang. When it looks like an article is shaping up for the WiKi, someone else can do that part too, I'm jus' a clueless ringleader here, so be patient with my shortcomings and everyone be patient with each other as we develop this process.

Think of this as the Z-80 approach to gathering info. When we've got this up and running, then it'll be time move it to a fancy new chip/array/gizmothingamajigger.

In the meantime, posts saying we should go from ZERO to perfect in a single step are not very helpful at all.

Pitch in and DO Something! I can't really help, I'm doing this so other folks in my boat can learn what to do too!

jt

Wiki articles don't pop up finished unless a single individual goes through a lot of individual effort to do just one.

Click to expand...

Somehow I hear my name be called for a "first run" or "template" or "model". Of course knowing my record the Rev. A will be garbage (i.e. first revision of the SE/30 cap image, first edition of Classic Mac Networking) and the Rev. B will be way better...

Before we get all carried away and start wallowing in the sand pit, have we examined what's already been established? Maybe all we might have to do is reformat it, add some tips and maybe a video.

I don't have any more boards to recap but that could change if someone sends one my way or something...err..Well the 2300c spare display is de-tanked, but...let's not worry about that now. I'd need a whole start->finish thing anyways. That and my video capture method consists of a P&S camera, so yeah...

oh man videos would be great as well! Mcdermd has some, but i am not sure if he is ready to go public

Gentleman, Trag should post his email address, so the many people that see this as a guest can contact him direct for a High-end Quality Cap kit.

I am probably going to start selling DIY kits, but with OEM STOCK parts in the kits for all the common boards,

Included will be a color laser legal print out of the main board, with my main board image.

I have to wait to get my paycheck, and to fix all these boards from macdrone first though.

going to use all my nifty mouser links and go to town. Get some usps padded envelopes.

I'd be more then happy to help you my way, World.

I will sell 2 cap packages, I'll call them:

- Package 1- "The Bone Stock Fix" - Alum Can Caps

- Package 2- "I am a cheap ass Fix" - All Radials - Aka "Christmas Trees"

(My prices will be much less then anyone else's package kits)

Both packages will include basic to minimal customer service

iamcapsmack@gmail.com

The ORIGINAL reference :b&w: :



Source: http://home.earthlink.net/~gamba2/se30repair.html

Sent a PM to the appropriate personnel for acquisition of capacitors, as I've recently been informed that a recap might be called for on my Classic II. I'll be blunt: I've no soldering skills whatsoever, and my last attempt at what should have been an elementary procedure turned out to be utterly disastrous. I'm as likely to irreversibly FUBAR my motherboard as successfully recap it. For all I know, that scenario fits most here, though I rather doubt it.

So... what's the bottom line up front? I'd like to find out if anyone here would like the challenge of recapping my motherboard. If you're interested, please PM me.

Thanks!

What Main Board do you have sir?

It's a Macintosh Classic II. Other than that, I don't know how to describe the board. Here is a pic:

Well I can cap that for you, pm me if interested. You could send that board along with the caps you get.

also may i have permission to re-use your picture there, your Classic II mainboard is the Revision 2, version more caps.

Revision 2, eh? Learn something new every day. Know my particular Mac was manufactured in '93.

You can certainly use the pic.

Well that is what i'm calling it: Rev 2,

It has more caps and different ROM's then my picture used in this Classic II thread:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=19785



could you look and try to let me know what the value of these caps are?

are they 10uf?



Also does your Classic II have Speaker Holes in the left hand side of the case?

You may have the classic II version that has the " enhanced sound "

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macintosh_Classic_II

"There were two Classic II cases. Later models came with a speaker grille on the left side for enhanced sound"

It does have speaker holes. I'll have to break out a magnifying glass to see what those caps show.

Thanks man i'd bet money they are 10uf, however I want to make sure.

Let's try to keep the individual model variation discussions in the model specific threads, guys. [] ]'>

If anyone has links to other discussions of a particular model, please post them here so I can do the cross-linkage thing between the IP and related threads.

jt, the second SE/30 thread link still has incorrect information in the first post. It lists radial leads instead of axial leads. The 1uf cap may also be the wrong size. I would be very annoyed to order those parts and have them being the wrong parts. Please correct or put a disclaimer that the information is not vetted and may be incorrect. It also has electrolytic components that are debatable to recommend as a replacement without more data. It is obvious uniserver is not careful in the information he posts... yes everyone makes mistakes, but it happens very often with the posts I have seen. This issue may apply to the other links... I am not complaining, just trying to help others not waste their time and money dealing with this info that is being spread all over the forums and in addition is being endorsed by a forum moderator.

I've already been given a ToDo list for some corrections by uniserver. Nice proofreading, let me know if I've fixed the problems later today after I've done so.

BTW, replying with alternate partslist suggestions to his threads would be very helpful, especially in the case of DigiKey here and Local Suppliers overseas.

This is EXACTLY the kind of cooperative effort I'm trying to establish in this thread/project.

I should add a bit that I'm not endorsing any particular approach to the top of the thread. done! I've posted a MINIMUM of a Tantalum Cap partslist and, AFAICT, uniserver is attempting to comply. Remember, Trag's Tantalum Cap info is the very top link in this project, aside from the example cited for a previously existing thread.

uniserver has made an interesting argument for the use of electrolytics in order to preserve authenticity, while at the same time, we've got a good discussion going about the merits of several alternative Capacitor Technologies.

Personally, I'm leaning toward the CutRemovalMethod, but I'll be testing uniserver's TwistRemovalMethod as well before attempting my very first recapping. Luckily I have several DuoTankFarms on DOA MoBos for testing. I'm carefully watching the CapTech discussion and I'd like to see a lot more of it.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Let's keep the dialog open. Who knows what mix of technologies and methodologies will come out of this project? :?:

Meanwhile, digging up all the pertinent links has yet to be done.

I've got my hands full just trying to run herd on this clearinghouse thread with cross-linking, updates and error correction. :

Hi,

I have an almost dead SE/30 Power Supply. I was thinking of recapping it, since it really smells badly of capacitor gunk (kind of a fishy-chemicaly smell), and I just got the idea of noting the capacitors I replace and listing them here, perhaps with pictures of the process.

Sound good?

c

Yep!

< hopes for more people to contribute info NOT related to SE/30s >

n.b. corrections list will have to wait until tomorrow, sleepy time & I've been wearing the anti-carpal tunnel wrist brace of effectiveness half the day.

hey tt, relax.

Tantalums are not the oem replacement sized cap's,

Yet you promote them like they are god, Then stick me with a hot poker every chance you get.

Why don't you stop flapping your big lips and contribute, too many chiefs, focus your thoughts on motivating your self, do something useful. Please!

Put the hot poke down! Take a deep breath and calm the hell down.

if you got a issue with a link then PLEASE post the correct one, jt will make the changes.

I can't do all this my self anyways.

Guys/gals, sorry if my previous post was unpleasant. My main point is to try to maintain reliable info in the forums in general. If you have suggestions to parts, indicate whether or not you actually installed them to ensure they are of sufficient quality and fit. If you have not used them, say they are recommendations that are untested. Posting in multiple places the same incorrect information will cause confusion and is harder to fix.

I have an almost dead SE/30 Power Supply. I was thinking of recapping it, since it really smells badly of capacitor gunk (kind of a fishy-chemicaly smell), and I just got the idea of noting the capacitors I replace and listing them here, perhaps with pictures of the process....Sound good?

Click to expand...

Sounds great! There is not too much info in this area. PSU replacement with modern alternatives would also be interesting.

< hopes for more people to contribute info NOT related to SE/30s >

Click to expand...

:lol:

The ability to edit a collaborative document rather to trawl through 75 posts found all over the place, and get that document right through progressive refinement, is why the wiki would be good for this. If there are two Classic II logic boards with different capacitors, and only one is shown in the wiki, then stick the other one in the same wiki document and make it right. You can't even do that on the regular forum threads as the one who posted if you come back later.

Trash says this is unfamiliar ground. May I suggest a trial run of documenting capacitor replacement for just one machine? See how or if it works (it should work if people use it, since this is what wikis are for).

Doing this for a series of machines at a time, like the Compacts, might breathe a little more life into the wiki as well, which would be good because at the moment it is pretty well neglected. We rely too much on the fora on this forum.

My $.02.

^^ yeap.

The structure of the wiki is already in place.

I think I could probably work something out, but I have a more pressing matter at the moment.

< hopes for more people to contribute info NOT related to SE/30s >

Click to expand...

The only thing I can contribute in that department is for the 2300c motherboard and display. My notes are a bit of a mess but I can probably cook something up in a couple of hours in AppleWorks 6. I have two Duo 230 motherboards here so I can list those out as well, if need be.

I have plenty of machines to look at capacitor values, locations and physical sizes with. Is there a wiki template page for caps? How would I edit or create one?

If I have links and privileges, I could probably get one or two a week in there pretty easily.

Hi,

I could possibly contribute a set of photos taken of my Mac IIcx's logic board before and after capacitor replacement.

It's not quite SE/30 related... although wasn't the SE/30's basic architecture based on the Mac IIx or IIcx or something?

Also, I think incorporating all this into a wiki would be fantastic! I looked at the existing capacitor info page, and while it seems adequate for many purposes, it doesn't include a lot of information that should be there, like different methods of cap removal, part numbers for replacement caps, etc.. Also, expanding beyond just logic boards to include power supplies (including compact Mac analog boards, especially the Classic/Classic II), peripherals such as keyboards (some of which do have capacitors in them, actually), and so on would be superb.

Just my $20 (adjusted for inflation, because 2¢ isn't worth what it used to be*).

c

*This is referring to real currency, of course.

My idea for a template would be a photo of the logic board with locations and values of the capacitors noted - like Uniserver has done - along with a chart of part numbers for aluminum electrolytic, tantalum and aluminum organic polymer capacitors for some major suppliers like a digikey and mouser. Each model of Macintosh covered could have its own, uniform wiki entry.

The problem with sorting and locating part numbers is that can take awhile, especially when you start stacking up the candidates for the capacitor wars. Off the top of my head I know of mylar, electrolytic, air, oil, ceramic, tantalum, and polymer-type capacitors. Each has its own unique attributes and properties* although I suspect that most of the capacitors used in the discussion-era Macs are just general purpose capacitors, at least mainly for the motherboard. Obviously you most likely won't find air or oil based capacitors in the sizes we're looking for but...yeah.

And what if the part numbers change? Who is going to maintain that list? It's a lot easier to just say "35v 220µF" and suggest a list of commonly available retailers aka Mouser, Jameco, Digikey (Digikey isn't really meant for the common hobbyist...) or maybe they might have them at a local electronics depot and no I don't mean That Place That Starts with a Five Letter Word Beginning with an R.

It may be also a worthy note to mention suitable brands -- I've heard of rampant copying and shoddy cloning which can be a problem in your application. (I heard of a story concerning some certain industrial espionage featuring Japan and some other country somewhere in Asia involving stealing the formula for the electrolyte, and well it was missing a key ingredient meaning that Mr. Cloner pushed out a LOT of crappy caps out on the market. Shoulda just went with Japanese caps...but try telling that to the bean counters.)

*: Caps are a lot like transistors. There are many types of transistors: power (usually TO-220 package), Darlington (similar, also in TO-92), high-freq (up in the MHz range) switching, high voltage (eg 100v out of a TO-92), high current (eg 1.5A out of a TO-92), low noise (audio, radio, and most likely scientific/lab/measuring equipment) and then your basic general purpose transistor which is usually a TO-92 package with typical 5v switching base, 3 or 400mA max current, 30-40V range tops.

And what if the part numbers change? Who is going to maintain that list? It's a lot easier to just say "35v 220µF" and suggest a list of commonly available retailers aka Mouser, Jameco, Digikey

Click to expand...

I was thinking there could be a section that explains what attributes to look for when selecting parts to ensure you are ordering the right components. Listing part numbers from reputable manufacturers instead of links to parts in online catalogs may also be easier to maintain. Attaching the data sheets may also help if parts become obsolete to find their current equivalents.

The biggest problem I see in this thread is that we've got two kinds of folks involved.

The technically competent types who can get enough info from that VERY SPARSE un-commented, unexplained data set on the WiKi . . . fine, you're good as is . . .

. . . and then there are folks like myself, still dreading their first recap and not equipped to do the same.

There aren't many indignities I'm not up for inflicting upon a computer, that much is plain. However, borking a MoBo because I'm not smart enough to say "I don't know how and I need some help here gang" just ain't gonna happen!

A lot of folks are in the same boat I am and a LOT of new recruits are going to need help in the future. It's gonna happen in the living breathing threads one way or another, that's the place we help each other on almost any problem we face and recapping is no different, we need feedback and support from our comrades.

Having a running dialog in the threads uniserver has posted and similar threads to be posted by others about each and every model IS GOING TO HAPPEN! PERIOD!!!!!!!

Around these here parts, long before WiKization of the web, this is where we rolled up our sleeves, figured things out, helped and supported each other from day 0.

Around here the only stupid question is the one that doesn't get asked.

Stop complaining about how this should be done and just HELP!!!!!

"Thus endeth the lesson." S.C. the untouchables

Forgive me if I've missed a post with this info elsewhere, but as a neophyte, not only am I not familiar with the part names etc., but I would also like to see information about what tools and supplies are needed. I know soldering irons are required, but which ones. Suggestions of recommended tools are a need for beginners.

Dunno about the rest of the kit, if anyone finds existing thread content, this is the place and time to post the links.

mcdermd had some good tips when MK558 passed his Cap-Clipping technique on the to the rest of the troops: Pro tip for recapping boards

Link added to O.P. listings

Recapping Basics, Supplies for Beginners

http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19844

Both links now bookmarked. Thanks gents!

For those interested (or those building the Wiki) here is the main-board for my Macintosh Classic II, which differs from the usual (mine is a 1993 model with left side speaker).

Radio shack is so lame for cap's

By all means you can go in there and buy one.. maybe two 47uf @25v caps (radials) for like $1.27 each... 8-o

If you need to buy some caps, and going to the Mouser links is too complicated for you, then just ask questions in the appropriate thread for your Main Board, I am sure someone will help you.

Speaking of Mouser, they are located in texas, i'am located in michigan. I ordered my caps on dec 2nd, they shipped on the 3rd, I just got them today in the mail box (Dec 11th).

I feel it took way too long, USPS was used as the shipper and i selected the cheapest shipping price $5.99.

Now they are here I took some pictures so you can see how they come, my order was (100 - 10uf@50 Volts) and (100 - 47uf@16 Volts)

Fyi, I am trying the cap-clipping technique and so far it's not that bad. My hats off to using this method, but please use your best judgement. Not all boards are made equal; there can be hidden severe damages due to age and/or corrosion. So far, one board is coming through with flying colors.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

Great to hear, if you're doing one of the boards already posted with diagrams and partslists, please document you recapping there, if not, PLEASE start a new Topic so we can get all the info posted in there, along with your hands on experience and any help any comrade tosses your way.

This would be exactly the kind of interactive content building I'm attempting to kick-start in this project.

should we sticky this?

Too much is stickied already, this should be easy enough to find, even with the forum's lame search tools. :

I found this graphic to be quite useful.

This thread is getting far down page 2, In hacks & Development.

- a good resource for DIY re-caps