Yellow Be gone!

Problem is, its gel based. Gel based stuff you have to keep babying it and it can cause streaking. I like liquid stuffs. 

Oh you gotta keep on it with the paint brush while its in the sun etc etc?  so like every 30 minutes ?

they got the same stuff that is liquid, its like 2 bucks more.

http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51YTyCv31rL._SL1000_.jpg

From what I hear the yellowing comes back in a year or so.

i still have some machines that mcdermd retro brighted,  they are about 3 years old now and their still nice and white.

Nice find, I'm picking up a couple.

Unknown_K said:

From what I hear the yellowing comes back in a year or so.

Click to expand...

I have not seen any re-yellowing on the ones that I have - some go back over four years.  I would assume that the different conditions that contribute to the initial yellowing, would contribute to any re-yellowing.  Probably Heat and Light.

I never tried it myself, a good cleaning is all I do. Was reading about people over at VCF having the yellow come back over time. I would assume it depends on why the plastic yellowed in the first place and how bad it was.

i think spraying the de yellowed plastics with some sort of UV protectant (something like ArmorAll, but not so shiny) can help slow down reoccurrance of yellowing.

c

I've never heard anyone suggest a UV protectant product by name that will work.

On a similar note, I've heard that moisture has alot to do with how fast things re-yellow, in addition to heat and light. I've read of people that had stuff in cool closets that re-yellowed, and the only factor was higher than nominal ambient moisture levels. If this holds up, it would be a major problem for me, as I'm right near a large lake, and the ambient moisture in my place is 65-70% year round.

A couple of questions:

Is this a total replacement for DIY retr0brite - or part of the recipe?

What's the best procedure to use with this compound?

Cool. If I don't find something like that locally, that would certainly be where I get it now.

My Macintosh SE is only slightly yellowed. (and the fluorescent light in my bedroom makes it appear a bit more yellow then it really is) So I would think mine would likely not "re-yellow" after a few years.

I've turned the lights off and used my LED flashlight to try and get a view of it in more natural lighting conditions. (opening up the windows is out of the question. I will do my best to baby this machine. )



(even though it's almost 3pm, it still gets noticeably dark with the lights off. That's how well I got my windows blocked off. )

I have to look at the few nicks on the edges to see what the original color was (I had recently cleaned off some black markings and the plastic underneath was still original beige).

It's only gone a few light shades of yellow. So I would believe after retr0brighting it, it will remain beige as long as I take care of it. I have my bed room windows covered up with bedsheets (It's been like this for awhile as I have glare issues with my eyes) so the room is darker then normal. I would believe this also ends up helping protect my SE from unwanted UV exposure as well.

I live in Texas (Northern Texas, not southern Texas), so I don't think it's known for being very humid at all and the central AC of my house would also help keep humidity down.

My room does get a bit warmer then the rest of the house though. On average it gets about 80'F at peak summer heat if I keep the ceiling fan going. The rest of my family considers my room too hot, but I'm a bit cold natured. The temperatur swings in my room get a bit more extreme during the winter though. But I don't think it's something that will be harmful to my Macintosh in the long run.

In a month or two I may consider getting that. I may wait until I have an SE/30 before dropping $20+ on peroxide solution. I also don't have a clear bin to place the stuff in so it won't be cheap for me to do this currently.

The keyboard I am using with my SE is a bit more yellowed. I don't have a mouse yet. What condition my eventual SE/30 will be in will determine how soon I will attempt to get the stuff for this.

From what i understand this Developer #40 creme solution is a bit different then the Retirbright method.

basically with this method all you need is this product , a paint brush, and the sun, for a couple hours.

then rinse and Yellow be gone.

one of my old buddys Jason,,, (aftermac)

he has an Obscene Vintage Mac collection.   Him and his wife caught wind of this simplistic method, (Developer #40) and

have been going through his computers one by one with, from what I understand to be 100% success.

http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/tmo_workspaces_jason

uniserver said:

Oh you gotta keep on it with the paint brush while its in the sun etc etc?  so like every 30 minutes ?

they got the same stuff that is liquid, its like 2 bucks more.

http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51YTyCv31rL._SL1000_.jpg

Click to expand...

I am one of those "set and forget" type of people. Lazy. 

Dunk it in the tank, let it roast in the sun and forget about it. lol. 

I have been putting this off, but I'm going to give it a go real soon. Time to deyellow my brown macs!

Isn't the problem with the dunk method that you lose the spray anti-RF coating on the inside of the compacts?

Good question. Never looked into it. 

Paralel said:

Isn't the problem with the dunk method that you lose the spray anti-RF coating on the inside of the compacts?

Click to expand...

I've treated several buckets, and I haven't had any problems with the RF coating coming off.  I've treated both the thinner, shiner anti-RF, and the older, thicker dark gray stuff.  Neither came off.

well the developer came in...  it was raining today. maybe tomorrow it will be sunny?   love Michigan in the fall

olePigeon said:

I've treated several buckets, and I haven't had any problems with the RF coating coming off.  I've treated both the thinner, shiner anti-RF, and the older, thicker dark gray stuff.  Neither came off.

Click to expand...

Huh, good to know. I might do this afterall then.

Well, I had to give this a try! My first attempt:

I looked up the MSDS sheet for the compound in uniservers' OP, the active thing in it was hydrogen peroxide, at 12.5%. There turn out to be several brands of 40V or 40 Volume Developer, the kind I got at Sally Beauty Supply was rated at 10-15%

I left a coat on for about 13 hours, but this was overnight and in a garage, so no sunlight. Will see what the results are.

i think you need UV light + the Developer, that is why they say sun, i suppose you could use black lights as some have done in some youtube channels but i think they all agree that the sunlight is the best.   anyways, great post your results.. i still havent had to the time yet to do this process yet.

I've read somewhere that it's easier to maintain the creme method if you cover the covered areas with plastic wrap which keeps it from drying out. I personally will prefer the submerge in liquid method. It will likely coast a bit more in material (like finding and buying a clear plastic tub large enough for my Macintosh SE or SE/30 when I have one). So I've decided the submerge in liquid method to be the safest route for me.

I bet thats the only reason people chose to go with the creme method is because of the huge parts like that. Small stuff like mice, monitor front bezels, etc. are ok. But large cases is why the creme I bet. 

40vol stuff is awesome. I've tested a couple of kinds out in the sun vs indoors - it does nothing indoors, but does too-fast work outside in sun UV. I'll add the same disclaimer for any drive-by readers that I make about Australian sun and retrobrite here too - 40vol, here, in country australian sun, will nuke a mac's case to white blooming in minutes. It needs to be REALLY diluted to give a good result, so here the submerge method is the only useful one. Test first!

I find yellowing can come back subtly over many years, but only in the same places it was originally yellowed; My guess is it's the leeching of bromine from only the parts of the plastic originally damaged in the past. My IIci/IIcx case top is my benchmark there. Kept in the sun originally, it was heavily yellowed on one side with a far less-yellowed shadow of the monitor on top. It keeps re-yellowing slightly in the same pattern.

i didn't put gloves on and the tips of my fingers are kinda of numb and bright white.  -- not good...

If you rinsed your hands well after exposure, the whitening and numbness should pass after a couple hours.

Source:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf&ved=0CBoQFjAAahUKEwiIuPCO4qfIAhUBKogKHRNKDcQ&usg=AFQjCNECTLNzu2_EfSZmjBFHlvLv4RRujQ&sig2=N-G-8xrEi6CCMGuyOJCzmg

yes its fine now, was kinda weird! 

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf

haha,  yep that is what happened

darn-it...   must be careful!!!!!

i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.

i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.

i bought all the BL stuff that had,

it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours

i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.

and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.

I'm running the 40vol test at the moment with very satisfactory results in my opinion. I've done a mouse and the back of a CC and it works well. Unfortunately, I'm in Britain and it's passed the point of no return weather-wise (01 October). With brief flashes of sun and even a cloudy day, this method DOES work. It's probably just worth leaving it out for two days instead of one.

P.S. I like your BL setup, uni!