Thread
Yellow Be gone!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7W5L44?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
off brand #40 developer by the gallon
off brand #40 developer by the gallon
Oh you gotta keep on it with the paint brush while its in the sun etc etc? so like every 30 minutes ?
they got the same stuff that is liquid, its like 2 bucks more.
http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51YTyCv31rL._SL1000_.jpg
they got the same stuff that is liquid, its like 2 bucks more.
http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51YTyCv31rL._SL1000_.jpg
Nice find, I'm picking up a couple.
I have not seen any re-yellowing on the ones that I have - some go back over four years. I would assume that the different conditions that contribute to the initial yellowing, would contribute to any re-yellowing. Probably Heat and Light.
I've never heard anyone suggest a UV protectant product by name that will work.
On a similar note, I've heard that moisture has alot to do with how fast things re-yellow, in addition to heat and light. I've read of people that had stuff in cool closets that re-yellowed, and the only factor was higher than nominal ambient moisture levels. If this holds up, it would be a major problem for me, as I'm right near a large lake, and the ambient moisture in my place is 65-70% year round.
On a similar note, I've heard that moisture has alot to do with how fast things re-yellow, in addition to heat and light. I've read of people that had stuff in cool closets that re-yellowed, and the only factor was higher than nominal ambient moisture levels. If this holds up, it would be a major problem for me, as I'm right near a large lake, and the ambient moisture in my place is 65-70% year round.
Cool. If I don't find something like that locally, that would certainly be where I get it now. 
My Macintosh SE is only slightly yellowed. (and the fluorescent light in my bedroom makes it appear a bit more yellow then it really is) So I would think mine would likely not "re-yellow" after a few years.
I've turned the lights off and used my LED flashlight to try and get a view of it in more natural lighting conditions. (opening up the windows is out of the question. I will do my best to baby this machine.
)
(even though it's almost 3pm, it still gets noticeably dark with the lights off. That's how well I got my windows blocked off. )
I have to look at the few nicks on the edges to see what the original color was (I had recently cleaned off some black markings and the plastic underneath was still original beige).
It's only gone a few light shades of yellow. So I would believe after retr0brighting it, it will remain beige as long as I take care of it. I have my bed room windows covered up with bedsheets (It's been like this for awhile as I have glare issues with my eyes) so the room is darker then normal. I would believe this also ends up helping protect my SE from unwanted UV exposure as well.
I live in Texas (Northern Texas, not southern Texas), so I don't think it's known for being very humid at all and the central AC of my house would also help keep humidity down.
My room does get a bit warmer then the rest of the house though. On average it gets about 80'F at peak summer heat if I keep the ceiling fan going. The rest of my family considers my room too hot, but I'm a bit cold natured. The temperatur swings in my room get a bit more extreme during the winter though. But I don't think it's something that will be harmful to my Macintosh in the long run.
In a month or two I may consider getting that. I may wait until I have an SE/30 before dropping $20+ on peroxide solution. I also don't have a clear bin to place the stuff in so it won't be cheap for me to do this currently.
The keyboard I am using with my SE is a bit more yellowed. I don't have a mouse yet. What condition my eventual SE/30 will be in will determine how soon I will attempt to get the stuff for this.
My Macintosh SE is only slightly yellowed. (and the fluorescent light in my bedroom makes it appear a bit more yellow then it really is) So I would think mine would likely not "re-yellow" after a few years.
I've turned the lights off and used my LED flashlight to try and get a view of it in more natural lighting conditions. (opening up the windows is out of the question. I will do my best to baby this machine.
)(even though it's almost 3pm, it still gets noticeably dark with the lights off. That's how well I got my windows blocked off.
)I have to look at the few nicks on the edges to see what the original color was (I had recently cleaned off some black markings and the plastic underneath was still original beige).
It's only gone a few light shades of yellow. So I would believe after retr0brighting it, it will remain beige as long as I take care of it. I have my bed room windows covered up with bedsheets (It's been like this for awhile as I have glare issues with my eyes) so the room is darker then normal. I would believe this also ends up helping protect my SE from unwanted UV exposure as well.
I live in Texas (Northern Texas, not southern Texas), so I don't think it's known for being very humid at all and the central AC of my house would also help keep humidity down.
My room does get a bit warmer then the rest of the house though. On average it gets about 80'F at peak summer heat if I keep the ceiling fan going. The rest of my family considers my room too hot, but I'm a bit cold natured. The temperatur swings in my room get a bit more extreme during the winter though. But I don't think it's something that will be harmful to my Macintosh in the long run.
In a month or two I may consider getting that. I may wait until I have an SE/30 before dropping $20+ on peroxide solution. I also don't have a clear bin to place the stuff in so it won't be cheap for me to do this currently.
The keyboard I am using with my SE is a bit more yellowed. I don't have a mouse yet. What condition my eventual SE/30 will be in will determine how soon I will attempt to get the stuff for this.
From what i understand this Developer #40 creme solution is a bit different then the Retirbright method.
basically with this method all you need is this product , a paint brush, and the sun, for a couple hours.
then rinse and Yellow be gone.
one of my old buddys Jason,,, (aftermac)
he has an Obscene Vintage Mac collection. Him and his wife caught wind of this simplistic method, (Developer #40) and
have been going through his computers one by one with, from what I understand to be 100% success.
http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/tmo_workspaces_jason
basically with this method all you need is this product , a paint brush, and the sun, for a couple hours.
then rinse and Yellow be gone.
one of my old buddys Jason,,, (aftermac)
he has an Obscene Vintage Mac collection. Him and his wife caught wind of this simplistic method, (Developer #40) and
have been going through his computers one by one with, from what I understand to be 100% success.
http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/tmo_workspaces_jason
Well, I had to give this a try! My first attempt:
I looked up the MSDS sheet for the compound in uniservers' OP, the active thing in it was hydrogen peroxide, at 12.5%. There turn out to be several brands of 40V or 40 Volume Developer, the kind I got at Sally Beauty Supply was rated at 10-15%
I left a coat on for about 13 hours, but this was overnight and in a garage, so no sunlight. Will see what the results are.
I looked up the MSDS sheet for the compound in uniservers' OP, the active thing in it was hydrogen peroxide, at 12.5%. There turn out to be several brands of 40V or 40 Volume Developer, the kind I got at Sally Beauty Supply was rated at 10-15%
I left a coat on for about 13 hours, but this was overnight and in a garage, so no sunlight. Will see what the results are.
i think you need UV light + the Developer, that is why they say sun, i suppose you could use black lights as some have done in some youtube channels but i think they all agree that the sunlight is the best. anyways, great post your results.. i still havent had to the time yet to do this process yet.
I've read somewhere that it's easier to maintain the creme method if you cover the covered areas with plastic wrap which keeps it from drying out. I personally will prefer the submerge in liquid method. It will likely coast a bit more in material (like finding and buying a clear plastic tub large enough for my Macintosh SE or SE/30 when I have one). So I've decided the submerge in liquid method to be the safest route for me.
40vol stuff is awesome. I've tested a couple of kinds out in the sun vs indoors - it does nothing indoors, but does too-fast work outside in sun UV. I'll add the same disclaimer for any drive-by readers that I make about Australian sun and retrobrite here too - 40vol, here, in country australian sun, will nuke a mac's case to white blooming in minutes. It needs to be REALLY diluted to give a good result, so here the submerge method is the only useful one. Test first!
I find yellowing can come back subtly over many years, but only in the same places it was originally yellowed; My guess is it's the leeching of bromine from only the parts of the plastic originally damaged in the past. My IIci/IIcx case top is my benchmark there. Kept in the sun originally, it was heavily yellowed on one side with a far less-yellowed shadow of the monitor on top. It keeps re-yellowing slightly in the same pattern.
I find yellowing can come back subtly over many years, but only in the same places it was originally yellowed; My guess is it's the leeching of bromine from only the parts of the plastic originally damaged in the past. My IIci/IIcx case top is my benchmark there. Kept in the sun originally, it was heavily yellowed on one side with a far less-yellowed shadow of the monitor on top. It keeps re-yellowing slightly in the same pattern.
If you rinsed your hands well after exposure, the whitening and numbness should pass after a couple hours.
Source:
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf&ved=0CBoQFjAAahUKEwiIuPCO4qfIAhUBKogKHRNKDcQ&usg=AFQjCNECTLNzu2_EfSZmjBFHlvLv4RRujQ&sig2=N-G-8xrEi6CCMGuyOJCzmg
Source:
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf&ved=0CBoQFjAAahUKEwiIuPCO4qfIAhUBKogKHRNKDcQ&usg=AFQjCNECTLNzu2_EfSZmjBFHlvLv4RRujQ&sig2=N-G-8xrEi6CCMGuyOJCzmg
yes its fine now, was kinda weird!
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf
haha, yep that is what happened
darn-it... must be careful!!!!!
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf
haha, yep that is what happened
darn-it... must be careful!!!!!
i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.
i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.
i bought all the BL stuff that had,
it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours
i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.
and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.
i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.
i bought all the BL stuff that had,
it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours
i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.
and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.
I'm running the 40vol test at the moment with very satisfactory results in my opinion. I've done a mouse and the back of a CC and it works well. Unfortunately, I'm in Britain and it's passed the point of no return weather-wise (01 October). With brief flashes of sun and even a cloudy day, this method DOES work. It's probably just worth leaving it out for two days instead of one.
P.S. I like your BL setup, uni!
P.S. I like your BL setup, uni!
How did that work out? I didnt think the blacklight had the correct wavelength. I always thought you needed narrowband UV-B like in tanning beds, etc.i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.
i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.
i bought all the BL stuff that had,
it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours
i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.
and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.
Screen Shot 2015-10-04 at 2.32.31 AM.png
Screen Shot 2015-10-04 at 2.32.49 AM.png
honestly... i am thinking you can use use heat... From what i understand the peroxide needs to be activated... that is why
it does nothing when you just smear it on. and Heat and UV light both activate peroxide... what has to happen is the peroxide has to bind to the
bromide, and when that happens the yellow is be gone.
Once you get the yellow be gone, you can protect your plastic with silicone oil. if you coat your de-yellowed plastic with Armorall or Pledge.
it will be protected, the reason the yellow stains on the plastic is because the bromide reacts with the oxygen in the air. and those products will keep that from happening... so if you have a mac that is not yellow, Protect it with a silicone oil product.
this is really not my thing, just so you guys know. i am only doing this because one of my customers offered me a Turbo 040 @40mhz for my Iici if i De-Yellow his SE/30.
so i figured if i am going through all the trouble i will do it right... I am a turbo kind of guy and i want to accerlaterate this process as fast as possible
i am thinking i am going to use heat and BL, next.
i ran out of time... I need to pick up some saran wrap, some rubber gloves and 2 extra wide tubs, because at the office there is just a bathroom sink and nothing else for me to wash bigger things like these plastics
by the time i got all the BL set up, i had already applied the 40 developer, and it had started to dry.
but i could tell just front he UV from the normal lights in my office after 3 hours it was removing all the yellow from one side of the thing.
so i ran out of time last night, i will have to restart the process tonight hopefully if i get time,
so far the LC-III is pretty screwed up looking as its streaked all to hell.
the product had already partially dried up, after i put it under the BL.
this guys uses BL, seemed like he had great results with this apple iie.
it does nothing when you just smear it on. and Heat and UV light both activate peroxide... what has to happen is the peroxide has to bind to the
bromide, and when that happens the yellow is be gone.
Once you get the yellow be gone, you can protect your plastic with silicone oil. if you coat your de-yellowed plastic with Armorall or Pledge.
it will be protected, the reason the yellow stains on the plastic is because the bromide reacts with the oxygen in the air. and those products will keep that from happening... so if you have a mac that is not yellow, Protect it with a silicone oil product.
this is really not my thing, just so you guys know. i am only doing this because one of my customers offered me a Turbo 040 @40mhz for my Iici if i De-Yellow his SE/30.
so i figured if i am going through all the trouble i will do it right... I am a turbo kind of guy and i want to accerlaterate this process as fast as possible
i am thinking i am going to use heat and BL, next.
i ran out of time... I need to pick up some saran wrap, some rubber gloves and 2 extra wide tubs, because at the office there is just a bathroom sink and nothing else for me to wash bigger things like these plastics
by the time i got all the BL set up, i had already applied the 40 developer, and it had started to dry.
but i could tell just front he UV from the normal lights in my office after 3 hours it was removing all the yellow from one side of the thing.
so i ran out of time last night, i will have to restart the process tonight hopefully if i get time,
so far the LC-III is pretty screwed up looking as its streaked all to hell.
the product had already partially dried up, after i put it under the BL.
this guys uses BL, seemed like he had great results with this apple iie.
and bam… Yellow BE Gone!
i just might have accidentally found a chemical solution that removes yellow instantlly but I don't want to say too much about it before we do some more testing… but its slightly exciting.
MJ, hey… do you have a mac that you don't care about that is yellow
can you mix 50/50 91%IPA / acetone , then spray, then kind of Buff wipe off with a cotton terry cloth and tell me if it works… if it doesn't , try 40% IPA and 60% acetone. just for shits and giggles.
what ever you do, do not use more then 60% acetone, i'm just sayin
i just might have accidentally found a chemical solution that removes yellow instantlly but I don't want to say too much about it before we do some more testing… but its slightly exciting.
MJ, hey… do you have a mac that you don't care about that is yellow
can you mix 50/50 91%IPA / acetone , then spray, then kind of Buff wipe off with a cotton terry cloth and tell me if it works… if it doesn't , try 40% IPA and 60% acetone. just for shits and giggles.
what ever you do, do not use more then 60% acetone, i'm just sayin
there is a point of diminishing returns, and that point is anywhere between 4 hours and 6 hours, as i think the the solution wears out. and you defintally want to be very generous with the jelly substance. slather on liberal ammounts. maybe even up to 2-3 MM thick or around 1/8th of an inch, or at atleast more more then 1/16th.
I have a soft spot for PentiumD's (used an off the shelf eMachines tower powered by one as my main computer for awhile before I got the Mac Pro, and it worked decently, and was relatively fast under XP and even Mac OS X Tiger (it was my first Hackintosh experience, and the chipset happened to be almost identical to the MacBooks and MacMinis of the time, which made it super easy)), so if you find you don't need/want that particular CPU, I'd take it (and its heatsink) from you.
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
I have a bunch of the Dell 520's or 620's.. something like that model number at my work... Had to recap almost all of them.. They were during the time of the bad cap run!!!! They looked like volcano's too.. I have always noticed even in the iMac all in ones it's the Rubycon caps that burst...
I think I had some caps fail on my monitor a year back. It took 6+ months before I managed to set aside money to buy a replacement power board that had the capacitors fail. (the power board was only like $15 or so, but I had other priorities at the time.)
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself. Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)
It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself.
Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
Well the caps weren't "bad" in the traditional sense as in a manufacturing/physical defect. They were actually based on a stolen and incomplete electrolyte formula that was obtained via industrial espionage, which backfired since it was flawed. The companies that used the stolen formula knowingly, or unknowingly in a few cases, made caps that would blow after a short time.
oh it looks like they are back in stock of the liquid stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ
http://www.amazon.com/Stabilized-Crystal-Liquid-Peroxide-HC-50409/dp/B00TP1IZDE/ref=pd_sbs_194_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFY548HJGN6YJGQCPKQ
It does rather seem that way. This is the most economical option I've seen online thus far: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FKVYCHQ/
Edit: it looks like beauty supply wholesalers are a better option. If you're in an urban centre, a local wholesaler would be ideal. http://www.discountbeautycenter.com/43152-advantage-40-volume-creme-developer-16-oz
Edit: it looks like beauty supply wholesalers are a better option. If you're in an urban centre, a local wholesaler would be ideal. http://www.discountbeautycenter.com/43152-advantage-40-volume-creme-developer-16-oz