Don't forget to recap the LCD panel as well. All SMD capacitors on the back of the panel are shot.
This will sort display issues like over- or under contrast and unstable screen.
The hard drive issues: Most stock powerbooks 100 I've seen have the Connor 20MB or 40MB hard drive. These suffer from stiction, the rubber around the magnet that keeps the heads in the parked position has degraded or liquified and keeps the heads in the parked position so you hear the drive spinning up and down when you try to boot it. This can be solved be disassembling the HDD and replacing the old rubber around the small magnet: be carefull not to loose the magnet as it's very tiny.
If you are giving the powerbook 100 a full service anyway, then remove the metal lever of the battery switch on the logic board and the 2x contacts from the logic board to the dead battery. This way it doesn't try to charge it anymore.
When it's repaired right, the fiddling with the reset/interrupt buttons is over.
This will sort display issues like over- or under contrast and unstable screen.
The hard drive issues: Most stock powerbooks 100 I've seen have the Connor 20MB or 40MB hard drive. These suffer from stiction, the rubber around the magnet that keeps the heads in the parked position has degraded or liquified and keeps the heads in the parked position so you hear the drive spinning up and down when you try to boot it. This can be solved be disassembling the HDD and replacing the old rubber around the small magnet: be carefull not to loose the magnet as it's very tiny.
If you are giving the powerbook 100 a full service anyway, then remove the metal lever of the battery switch on the logic board and the 2x contacts from the logic board to the dead battery. This way it doesn't try to charge it anymore.
When it's repaired right, the fiddling with the reset/interrupt buttons is over.