Thread
Couple of Compact CRT questions
Couple of questions from a CRT ignoramus:
1. I have an SE with bad screen burn. Can this screen in the SE be replaced with a Plus screen? I have a spare, dead Plus and think the SE a better machine to preserve, on the whole.
2. A failed analog board transplant into a Classic II means I have to try again. For how long does the CRT/ HV circuitry retain a charge, unplugged? I'd want to wait until being sure there is no danger before disassembly and re-attempting repair.
1. I have an SE with bad screen burn. Can this screen in the SE be replaced with a Plus screen? I have a spare, dead Plus and think the SE a better machine to preserve, on the whole.
2. A failed analog board transplant into a Classic II means I have to try again. For how long does the CRT/ HV circuitry retain a charge, unplugged? I'd want to wait until being sure there is no danger before disassembly and re-attempting repair.
1) For the most part, yes. But you should take note the CRT Tube numbers and see if they match; they should. The socket should should also fit as well. The problem, if any, is the yoke assembly and the holding tabs.
But you should save your crt with burn because they are no longer being made, and having a CRT with burn is better than having no screen at all.
2) For me, a minimum of 4 days, even though Classic/Classic II has a flyback transformer with a bleeding resistor which would drain it in a few minutes after being turned off. It is best to get/make a CRT Discharge tool and use it when you are not sure if the caps are charged or not. The problem is the Caps, they hold the charge what gets amplified by the flyback transformer.
Worse comes to worst, you can take the suction cup of the tube and bring it to one of the hold down screws if you think it is still charged. If it snaps or pops, it was charged and now has been discharged. Silence means that it was already discharged.
Now, what's wrong with the Mac Plus that is dead? I believe that most machines can be brought back to life. It depends on the resources and time one has to fix them. But... lets get the SE working and then the Classic II and then the Plus.
But you should save your crt with burn because they are no longer being made, and having a CRT with burn is better than having no screen at all.
2) For me, a minimum of 4 days, even though Classic/Classic II has a flyback transformer with a bleeding resistor which would drain it in a few minutes after being turned off. It is best to get/make a CRT Discharge tool and use it when you are not sure if the caps are charged or not. The problem is the Caps, they hold the charge what gets amplified by the flyback transformer.
Worse comes to worst, you can take the suction cup of the tube and bring it to one of the hold down screws if you think it is still charged. If it snaps or pops, it was charged and now has been discharged. Silence means that it was already discharged.
Now, what's wrong with the Mac Plus that is dead? I believe that most machines can be brought back to life. It depends on the resources and time one has to fix them. But... lets get the SE working and then the Classic II and then the Plus.
Thanks for that.
The dead Plus is probably a 128/512 that had the Plus upgrade (logic board and bucket), so it is not original and that, to my mind, makes it a candidate for parting out. Dead means, won't turn on at all, so I assume analog board problems.
I tend to agree that machines should be preserved, but in this case, someone could surely use the front bezel for repairs, I have a Mac 128 already, and I'd like to fix that SE. Plus, I have another proper Plus....
The dead Plus is probably a 128/512 that had the Plus upgrade (logic board and bucket), so it is not original and that, to my mind, makes it a candidate for parting out. Dead means, won't turn on at all, so I assume analog board problems.
I tend to agree that machines should be preserved, but in this case, someone could surely use the front bezel for repairs, I have a Mac 128 already, and I'd like to fix that SE. Plus, I have another proper Plus....
Agree!!! And it's pretty easy to make your own, so why not.
I use one of these... attach the wire to the groundlug and slip the screwdriver under the suction cup to touch the metal. ehhh and just hold onto the handle and not the metal shaft of the screwdriver. lol.
First time I've ever heard it called a "Minus" screwdriver...
It's called a "Minus Screwdriver" because after discharging the flyback transformer a couple of times will chip the blade's tip and it will be useless as a screwdriver after that.
Unless you you got an electric grinding stone wheel to grind the tip back into shape.
Unless you you got an electric grinding stone wheel to grind the tip back into shape.
not with a 100megohm resistor... however that resistor will take a very long time to discharge... Plus the flyback already has an internal resistor BTW.
I think it's called 'Minus Screwdriver' because Japanese do.these picture were referred from famous SE/30 Repair page.and the writer is Japanese.I know it is kind of 'Japanese English' means no proper English but sounds like for Japanese...
Correct you are, sir! Here's the site with all the infoz...
http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html
http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html
Phillips head would be a "plus screwdriver" then.
Yes!
We call them "Plus (Screw) Driver"."Screw" is omitted.
We call them "Plus (Screw) Driver"."Screw" is omitted.
Huh, the funny part is that a Phillips, the way it is designed, is meant to cam out before you break the screw head off, unlike a real "Plus" flat ended driver that would give you great torque, but would def. snap the screw head off before the drive cams out if the max torque that the screw can handle is exceeded.
These days, a "Plus" would be more like a Pozidrive screwdriver.
These days, a "Plus" would be more like a Pozidrive screwdriver.