Yes, That's all I had to do, replace those three parts.
When the fuse originally popped, I replaced it and it popped again.
So I started looking for damaged components-- and saw the damaged Thermistor.
I thought those were supposed to protect against high current? Maybe it did and that's why it went up.
Then I checked components for shorts-- Transistors/FETS first, then diodes then caps, then resistors.
I pulled a few caps out of circuit and tested them with a cap tester in my meter when they looked suspect, but all were OK.
I checked just about every component on the board (in circuit), and couldn't find anything else that looked obviously bad. (Shorted)
I replaced that NTC 10 ohm Thermistor with a 3A , from what I read they're suppsed to protect from blowing the fuse from
inrush current, The main fuse is 3.15A, so that's why I went with a 3A.
When I tried the first power up after replacing those, I half expected it to pop the fuse again. I figured it couldn't be that simple.
But when I hit the power switch, I heard the CRT fire up. (That quick hum sound--Degauss?) Hit the switch on the keyboard and got a chime.
No problems yet-- Maybe I got lucky, and it was just the switching FET that failed.
I'll eventually recap the analog board, probably sooner than later.
When the fuse originally popped, I replaced it and it popped again.
So I started looking for damaged components-- and saw the damaged Thermistor.
I thought those were supposed to protect against high current? Maybe it did and that's why it went up.
Then I checked components for shorts-- Transistors/FETS first, then diodes then caps, then resistors.
I pulled a few caps out of circuit and tested them with a cap tester in my meter when they looked suspect, but all were OK.
I checked just about every component on the board (in circuit), and couldn't find anything else that looked obviously bad. (Shorted)
I replaced that NTC 10 ohm Thermistor with a 3A , from what I read they're suppsed to protect from blowing the fuse from
inrush current, The main fuse is 3.15A, so that's why I went with a 3A.
When I tried the first power up after replacing those, I half expected it to pop the fuse again. I figured it couldn't be that simple.
But when I hit the power switch, I heard the CRT fire up. (That quick hum sound--Degauss?) Hit the switch on the keyboard and got a chime.
No problems yet-- Maybe I got lucky, and it was just the switching FET that failed.
I'll eventually recap the analog board, probably sooner than later.