It will need a full recap to at least perhaps getting it started.
During the recap, check the area with the removed cap with a magnifying glass and check if the traces are intact. Then with a multimeter check the trace from end to end. Also check for corrosion where the trace goes to a chip, you may have to resolder those areas. If you are lucky it should come up with just the recap alone.
When you remove the solder, I found that adding solder to the trace make it melt faster and easy to pick up with a dsoldering wick or dsoldering iron. Clean up the trace with acetone and Q-tips (cotton swabs in the UK). Check out Ferrix97's video on removing caps from the board, I find that unless the corrosion is really bad, it saves traces. Here's the link: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/23469-macintosh-lc-restoration-video-series/?p=243442
My Classic II came back from a dead point like this to fully booting, but there is no sound so I have to check some traces.
Good luck with that. Hope it goes well for you.
During the recap, check the area with the removed cap with a magnifying glass and check if the traces are intact. Then with a multimeter check the trace from end to end. Also check for corrosion where the trace goes to a chip, you may have to resolder those areas. If you are lucky it should come up with just the recap alone.
When you remove the solder, I found that adding solder to the trace make it melt faster and easy to pick up with a dsoldering wick or dsoldering iron. Clean up the trace with acetone and Q-tips (cotton swabs in the UK). Check out Ferrix97's video on removing caps from the board, I find that unless the corrosion is really bad, it saves traces. Here's the link: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/23469-macintosh-lc-restoration-video-series/?p=243442
My Classic II came back from a dead point like this to fully booting, but there is no sound so I have to check some traces.
Good luck with that. Hope it goes well for you.