I use my fingers on the top sides and thumbs on the top front edge only, no tools, to force the top edge uniformly forwards. If it will not budge I concentrate on one top corner only then the other. I also then put a little pressure later on the D connectors to free the bottom, but if there is much resistance I spare the solder joints by putting in the lower torx screws part way and then really pushing on them relative to the case back shell.
Reassembly can also be a little tricky in that the case flange needs to be inside the faceplate all the way around the periphery. I'd like to add the reminder that if the case hesitates to fully reseat even a little upon reassembly, do not put in the torx screws and just tighten to close the gap. Instead, take apart and check that the analog board has not slipped slightly to the side of the shallow plastic alignment guides in the faceplate.
Reassembly can also be a little tricky in that the case flange needs to be inside the faceplate all the way around the periphery. I'd like to add the reminder that if the case hesitates to fully reseat even a little upon reassembly, do not put in the torx screws and just tighten to close the gap. Instead, take apart and check that the analog board has not slipped slightly to the side of the shallow plastic alignment guides in the faceplate.