OMG, that photo looks like it came from Iraq! (which I may remind the uninitiated is widely considered one of the birthplaces of civilization, but sadly our lunatic leaders have bombed back to the stone age...)
Anyways, don't mean to poke old threads, but I can't believe NOBODY mentioned using FLUX! Hello!? Who does soldering without flux guys? You need to deoxidize the surfaces, no wonder Mr. Richardson's solder doesn't stick.
And one more thing: Tyleress is right about "replacing every component will not make something work". Other than the broken trace, or lifted pad, or damaged via [duct], what can happen which is a *major* bitch to fix is the following: a damaged part (call it A) causes a part downstream from it (call it B) to burn out. So you replace B, but before A, since you don't know it's the source of evil. You try the board and B gets burnt again, because A is still faulty, yet you DON'T know this has happened, since B is "brand new" as far as you know - you just soldered it! Then you continue and replace A. Try your board again and you still find your board not working. Basically you're screwed.
Of course one way to get around this is to replace all components at once, and then try your luck. But unfortunately you must be a God of perfection, because almost no human can achieve the same faultless run as a robotic parts machine.
And one last thing that I didn't see mentioned:
before you replace *all* the caps, see if any leaks exist (easily found by smell or if the solder around the caps isn't shiny, but very dull, or even yellow or green), and if they do you'd better clean them up with PCB cleaner or 99% pure alcohol, because they will corrode the board and traces and eventually no matter how much cap replacement you do, it will never work again!
Cheers and happy surgeries!
Anyways, don't mean to poke old threads, but I can't believe NOBODY mentioned using FLUX! Hello!? Who does soldering without flux guys? You need to deoxidize the surfaces, no wonder Mr. Richardson's solder doesn't stick.
And one more thing: Tyleress is right about "replacing every component will not make something work". Other than the broken trace, or lifted pad, or damaged via [duct], what can happen which is a *major* bitch to fix is the following: a damaged part (call it A) causes a part downstream from it (call it B) to burn out. So you replace B, but before A, since you don't know it's the source of evil. You try the board and B gets burnt again, because A is still faulty, yet you DON'T know this has happened, since B is "brand new" as far as you know - you just soldered it! Then you continue and replace A. Try your board again and you still find your board not working. Basically you're screwed.
Of course one way to get around this is to replace all components at once, and then try your luck. But unfortunately you must be a God of perfection, because almost no human can achieve the same faultless run as a robotic parts machine.
And one last thing that I didn't see mentioned:
before you replace *all* the caps, see if any leaks exist (easily found by smell or if the solder around the caps isn't shiny, but very dull, or even yellow or green), and if they do you'd better clean them up with PCB cleaner or 99% pure alcohol, because they will corrode the board and traces and eventually no matter how much cap replacement you do, it will never work again!
Cheers and happy surgeries!