first..
Use the 'Clear CMOS' jumper. This resets all BIOS options to default. Move the jumper from the "normal" position and place it in the "clear" position for a few seconds. I reckon this is akin to pressing the CUDA button on a Mac.
NOTE: Some motherboards ship with the jumper set to "clear", not "normal". The motherboard won't POST if the CMOS jumper is set to "clear". Why do they ship 'em this way? Because they're idiots or maybe they like getting a ton of RMAs.
Some motherboards don't do nuthin unless the CPU and RAM are installed. Make sure these components are fully seated in their sockets.
Generally, even a bare motherboard will power-on. No RAM, CPU, or video card. Just plug in the power supply cable and use the power switch or a pair of toenail clippers to momentarily connect the appropriate pins. Motherboards with an onboard speaker might even give you a 'beep code' to identify the error (CPU failure, no doubt).
You don't have to go that far. Yet. Just strip her down to the video card, CPU (and its fan) and one stick of RAM. No hard drive cables or floppy cables, nothing in the PCI slots. make sure the power supply is powered-off AND unplugged. Then reset the CMOS using the jumper. Place the jumper back in the normal position, then remove the battery. Stare at that battery for a few minutes while you have a cup of coffee. You're waiting for some capacitors to lose their charge. Put the battery back in, plug-in the power supply, and power-up the motherboard.
If nothing happens....
repeat above procedure using a different stick of RAM if possible.
If nothing happens....
Pull the motherboard out of the case and lay it down on something non-conductive (Formica countertop, wood floor, a newspaper. Sure static electricity can kill stuff like motherboards, but it's a longshot. I've done it hundreds of times without incident. Wrist straps are for sissies and folks that handle electronics all day long.
Anyways, the goal is to eliminate any possibility thatthe case itself was grounding or shorting the motherboard. try powering it up with just CPU, RAM, and video card. No luck? Unplug the power and pull the lever to release the CPU out of the socket. Examine the pins on the CPU. Look OK? Drop it back into the socket - making sure it's fully seated - and lock it down. Pull out the RAM and reseat it. Try to power it up again.
next....
If you're sure all the jumpers (prolly aren't very many) are in their correct locations, and you're sure the power supply is working (all voltages, all rails) then you got a dud motherboard. It's extremely unlikely that the CPU is faulty or the RAM is faulty...however, there's an even chance of it being either the motherboard or power supply. Borrow a power supply if you can. I've seen way more DOA power supplies than I've seen DOA Asus motherboards. If all else fails, either return it to the retailer for exchange (if possible) or RMA it back to the manufacturer (2 week turnaround).
A no-boot condition on a newly-built peecee is commonplace. hell, about one-third of mine don't do diddily the first time the power button is pushed. But somehow, 95% of the time I manage to bring them to life.
longshot:
Some motherboards 'look' for rotation of the CPU cooling fan before they will allow POST *power-on self-test. Most fans have a 3rd wire (blue, typically) that is used to deliver a RPM signal to the motherboard. If the motherboard doesn't 'see' any fan rotation on the CPU - it won't POST. The CPU fan should have 3 wires and should be plugged into the motherboard fan header reserved for the CPU fan. If this is true in your case, this is not the problem.
next.....
bong hit.
Use the 'Clear CMOS' jumper. This resets all BIOS options to default. Move the jumper from the "normal" position and place it in the "clear" position for a few seconds. I reckon this is akin to pressing the CUDA button on a Mac.
NOTE: Some motherboards ship with the jumper set to "clear", not "normal". The motherboard won't POST if the CMOS jumper is set to "clear". Why do they ship 'em this way? Because they're idiots or maybe they like getting a ton of RMAs.
Some motherboards don't do nuthin unless the CPU and RAM are installed. Make sure these components are fully seated in their sockets.
Generally, even a bare motherboard will power-on. No RAM, CPU, or video card. Just plug in the power supply cable and use the power switch or a pair of toenail clippers to momentarily connect the appropriate pins. Motherboards with an onboard speaker might even give you a 'beep code' to identify the error (CPU failure, no doubt).
You don't have to go that far. Yet. Just strip her down to the video card, CPU (and its fan) and one stick of RAM. No hard drive cables or floppy cables, nothing in the PCI slots. make sure the power supply is powered-off AND unplugged. Then reset the CMOS using the jumper. Place the jumper back in the normal position, then remove the battery. Stare at that battery for a few minutes while you have a cup of coffee. You're waiting for some capacitors to lose their charge. Put the battery back in, plug-in the power supply, and power-up the motherboard.
If nothing happens....
repeat above procedure using a different stick of RAM if possible.
If nothing happens....
Pull the motherboard out of the case and lay it down on something non-conductive (Formica countertop, wood floor, a newspaper. Sure static electricity can kill stuff like motherboards, but it's a longshot. I've done it hundreds of times without incident. Wrist straps are for sissies and folks that handle electronics all day long.
Anyways, the goal is to eliminate any possibility thatthe case itself was grounding or shorting the motherboard. try powering it up with just CPU, RAM, and video card. No luck? Unplug the power and pull the lever to release the CPU out of the socket. Examine the pins on the CPU. Look OK? Drop it back into the socket - making sure it's fully seated - and lock it down. Pull out the RAM and reseat it. Try to power it up again.
next....
If you're sure all the jumpers (prolly aren't very many) are in their correct locations, and you're sure the power supply is working (all voltages, all rails) then you got a dud motherboard. It's extremely unlikely that the CPU is faulty or the RAM is faulty...however, there's an even chance of it being either the motherboard or power supply. Borrow a power supply if you can. I've seen way more DOA power supplies than I've seen DOA Asus motherboards. If all else fails, either return it to the retailer for exchange (if possible) or RMA it back to the manufacturer (2 week turnaround).
A no-boot condition on a newly-built peecee is commonplace. hell, about one-third of mine don't do diddily the first time the power button is pushed. But somehow, 95% of the time I manage to bring them to life.
longshot:
Some motherboards 'look' for rotation of the CPU cooling fan before they will allow POST *power-on self-test. Most fans have a 3rd wire (blue, typically) that is used to deliver a RPM signal to the motherboard. If the motherboard doesn't 'see' any fan rotation on the CPU - it won't POST. The CPU fan should have 3 wires and should be plugged into the motherboard fan header reserved for the CPU fan. If this is true in your case, this is not the problem.
next.....
bong hit.