my post from a long time ago:
Saturday moring I get a call from my friend Paul who is my surf partner. He drags me out of bed to go surfing because his friend canceled because of the flu. I am reluctant cuz you know, the waters cold, and the surf is probably big and I have to wash the dishes and . . .you get the idea. I really wasnt looking forward to going. I went anyway. He didnt tell me until we got there that the surf was huge. There were occassional sets to 8 feet! thats huge for me.
On the plus side, the water was very calm in spite of the huge waves. It was very beautiful to look at much less be out in it. Well, the paddle out was rough, I got hammered plenty but once I was there, it was just gorgeous. The waves were huge, and the surface was glassy, sun shining, and no wind. Did I mention the waves were huge?
Well after a few minutes I find myself staring a 7-8 footer in the face. I either bail and get hammered, or turn and paddle and ride. I chose to paddle. The wave picked me up and I started to glide down the face. I popped up in perfect form (a feat in and of itself) and was immediately racing forward down the face of this huge wave. I didnt think to turn to ride the shoulder, I was kinda stunned to be up and running. Once in the flat in front of the wave, I looked over my shoulder to see an explosion of white water behind me that was easily three feet over my head. Absolute rush of a lifetime! I eventually slowed down and the massive whitewash caught up to me
and engulfed me. I knew it was coming, so I sorta jumped back into it. I felt like I was in a washing machine. Got spun around, up and down, paddle for the surface, paddle paddle paddle, ah, yes, air! I came to the surface only to see another of the same size bearing down on me. I immediately dove for the bottom to get out of its way. I did ok. When I came to the surface again I let out a yell WoooooHooooo!!!!
Then another just cuz it felt good! After a few minutes of paddling back to the take-off spot, it was high-fives from Paul and complete ellation. Man, I cant wait to go back to Del Mar.
Saturday moring I get a call from my friend Paul who is my surf partner. He drags me out of bed to go surfing because his friend canceled because of the flu. I am reluctant cuz you know, the waters cold, and the surf is probably big and I have to wash the dishes and . . .you get the idea. I really wasnt looking forward to going. I went anyway. He didnt tell me until we got there that the surf was huge. There were occassional sets to 8 feet! thats huge for me.
On the plus side, the water was very calm in spite of the huge waves. It was very beautiful to look at much less be out in it. Well, the paddle out was rough, I got hammered plenty but once I was there, it was just gorgeous. The waves were huge, and the surface was glassy, sun shining, and no wind. Did I mention the waves were huge?
Well after a few minutes I find myself staring a 7-8 footer in the face. I either bail and get hammered, or turn and paddle and ride. I chose to paddle. The wave picked me up and I started to glide down the face. I popped up in perfect form (a feat in and of itself) and was immediately racing forward down the face of this huge wave. I didnt think to turn to ride the shoulder, I was kinda stunned to be up and running. Once in the flat in front of the wave, I looked over my shoulder to see an explosion of white water behind me that was easily three feet over my head. Absolute rush of a lifetime! I eventually slowed down and the massive whitewash caught up to me
and engulfed me. I knew it was coming, so I sorta jumped back into it. I felt like I was in a washing machine. Got spun around, up and down, paddle for the surface, paddle paddle paddle, ah, yes, air! I came to the surface only to see another of the same size bearing down on me. I immediately dove for the bottom to get out of its way. I did ok. When I came to the surface again I let out a yell WoooooHooooo!!!!
Then another just cuz it felt good! After a few minutes of paddling back to the take-off spot, it was high-fives from Paul and complete ellation. Man, I cant wait to go back to Del Mar.