i'm a longboarder (9' 2'' Becker surfboards - one tri-fin and one single fin) in So. Cal. Began surfing in college... am 33 next month... and find longboarding more relaxing but still gives me enough of a workout (from all that paddling out) to stay fit. Shortboarding is just too much work for me now.
When my days are free... i teach at a city college at night... i drive out to the beach in the morning, come home at around noon, take a nap and a shower after lunch... then go to work from 6:30 to 9:30... nothing to complain about... especially with my guitar and my powerbook and a good book.
My lifestyle became quite laid back since surfing. That's the best thing about it... just laid back... (no need for weed)
Hope you feel the peace, too, bro.
When my days are free... i teach at a city college at night... i drive out to the beach in the morning, come home at around noon, take a nap and a shower after lunch... then go to work from 6:30 to 9:30... nothing to complain about... especially with my guitar and my powerbook and a good book.
My lifestyle became quite laid back since surfing. That's the best thing about it... just laid back... (no need for weed)
Hope you feel the peace, too, bro.