Surfers (NOT web)

I've tried kayak surfing a couple of times in little dinky surf off the coast of Maine. But never tried real surfing and I'm too old now to learn it now. It does look fun-- and difficult. My kids took a lesson from a local surfer dude while we were in Hawaii. They had fun and even managed to stand a couple of times, but found it hard to do! It was a rather stormy day and the waves were a little big for beginners.

Endless summer is a fun movie, even if one isn't a surfer. The search for the perfect wave: they found it somewhere off of South Africa, IIRC.

i started skateboarding when i was 12 and have since taught myself how to snowboard, which i've been doing for the past 10 years (on and off).

i have always loved the idea of surfing, but i have never lived near the ocean (one of my goals in life). i love water and waves...

now i'm wonderng, if at 34 i should give it a try...



p.s. i think i saw that movie "endless summer" 10 years ago or so. i though it was kinda cheeseball at the time...

when this upstate ny local moved to hawaii, he took up surfing. damn hard for me to learn even with the skating/snowboarding background i have. its fun, but its a huge time investment.

only got barreled once. at kaisers in waikiki. on a crazy southern swell.

Yup, surfed in Biarittz in France, Cape Town in South Africa and Bells Beach in Australia. To be honest I was never very good and haven't done any in the past 4 years. My board though, is sitting about 2 meters from me as I type this....

It looks like an awesome sport. There's not much of it here in New England.

I love to surf, although I only get to do it once a year. I always regret not doing more of it. Still, I guess if I REALLY wanted to, I would have. Feeling that power, that huge surge when the wave takes you, is just incredible. It's something I'd recommend to anyone. I skateboard everyday, weather permitting. I understand you (surfers) refer to skateboarders as "the darkside"?

i'm a longboarder (9' 2'' Becker surfboards - one tri-fin and one single fin) in So. Cal. Began surfing in college... am 33 next month... and find longboarding more relaxing but still gives me enough of a workout (from all that paddling out) to stay fit. Shortboarding is just too much work for me now.

When my days are free... i teach at a city college at night... i drive out to the beach in the morning, come home at around noon, take a nap and a shower after lunch... then go to work from 6:30 to 9:30... nothing to complain about... especially with my guitar and my powerbook and a good book.

My lifestyle became quite laid back since surfing. That's the best thing about it... just laid back... (no need for weed)

Hope you feel the peace, too, bro.

damn. you've got the life!

my post from a long time ago:

Saturday moring I get a call from my friend Paul who is my surf partner. He drags me out of bed to go surfing because his friend canceled because of the flu. I am reluctant cuz you know, the waters cold, and the surf is probably big and I have to wash the dishes and . . .you get the idea. I really wasnt looking forward to going. I went anyway. He didnt tell me until we got there that the surf was huge. There were occassional sets to 8 feet! thats huge for me.
On the plus side, the water was very calm in spite of the huge waves. It was very beautiful to look at much less be out in it. Well, the paddle out was rough, I got hammered plenty but once I was there, it was just gorgeous. The waves were huge, and the surface was glassy, sun shining, and no wind. Did I mention the waves were huge?

Well after a few minutes I find myself staring a 7-8 footer in the face. I either bail and get hammered, or turn and paddle and ride. I chose to paddle. The wave picked me up and I started to glide down the face. I popped up in perfect form (a feat in and of itself) and was immediately racing forward down the face of this huge wave. I didnt think to turn to ride the shoulder, I was kinda stunned to be up and running. Once in the flat in front of the wave, I looked over my shoulder to see an explosion of white water behind me that was easily three feet over my head. Absolute rush of a lifetime! I eventually slowed down and the massive whitewash caught up to me
and engulfed me. I knew it was coming, so I sorta jumped back into it. I felt like I was in a washing machine. Got spun around, up and down, paddle for the surface, paddle paddle paddle, ah, yes, air! I came to the surface only to see another of the same size bearing down on me. I immediately dove for the bottom to get out of its way. I did ok. When I came to the surface again I let out a yell WoooooHooooo!!!!
Then another just cuz it felt good! After a few minutes of paddling back to the take-off spot, it was high-fives from Paul and complete ellation. Man, I cant wait to go back to Del Mar.

I live in NJ just an hour from the Ocean and will be giving surfing a try this year...and I'm a Genx guy myself too. I'm 34 also.

Step into Liquid is an outstanding show with wonderful camera work. The underwater footage is very beautiful. The massive wave segment at Cortez Bank is phenominal. (there is a small taste of that in the trailer.)

Great movie.

I've been using a short board (6'2" or so), since i started and it's tough..... and yes paddling is a friggon workout. I got back to the ocean yesterday after about 2 months, and wow.... it took me a good deal of time and paddling to make it to the break.
I have just barely started standing up...maybe done it about 7-10 times so far. it's really amazing when you catch a wave. Ive been wanting to try out a longboard, cause it's apparenly a lot easier to catch a wave on. But right now, my Rusty board will have to do.

I do agree with viachiangmai. it's both exhilirating, and 'calming'.... hard to explain. I just love the fact that it's a force of nature that can cause such emotions.

Exactly. Last summer, I surfed early morning before work probably 3 times a week. It really made my days more mellow. I liken it to the early morning workout that a lot of people live by.

6'2 is very short for a learner. BUT, once you can reliably get up on it, you will be ahead of anyone learning on a long board who then transitions to a shortie. I started on a 7'4" Southcoast, now on a 7' Dick Brewer.

Are you in SoCal?

edit: hows the new suit? There is nothing like a new suit in the water. It feels like you dont even get wet. Awesome.

Oh i just checked the specs on my board, it's a 6'4, 2.5" thick board, which i must admit was hard to get onto at first, but paddling n catching the floaties is pretty easy...it's just the standing up im trying to master...with some results.

No, im not in SoCal, im in Perth, Australia. The new suit is great.....it's a Quiksilver suit....and feels great, the fit is just perfect , my only quibble with it is the fact that the arms n an inch shorter than my arms n legs or so...not that it matters too much, just looks a bit weird. But as far as keeping me warm, its awesome. i was mostly concerned about water jetting down my back when i duckdive, but wasnt a problem cause the suit fit so well.

On a sidenote, i got to see the Solomon Masters this year at Margaret River, which was pretty darn amazing.... got to see Taj Burrows which was really cool as well.

Cheers.

damn, I thought I was lucky to be able to spend an hour at the skatepark every morning...

Butthole?

We have a surfer over at Fubarforums that lives in Hawaii. He even runs a surfing instruction company I believe.



You know he hit that.

man those guys suck.

They are different. I like some of their songs.