I think I've figured out a method of marking the front and back "halves" of an AcrylicCRT so they'll mate up reasonably well:
00) purchase sacrificial turkey baster at dollar store . . .
01) line a baking sheet with plastic drop cloth . . .
02) find or create a perfectly level surface . . .
03) place baking sheet on level/ed surface . . .
04) place formed section into baking sheet . . .
05) weight section to hold it down against barometric pressure . . .
06) pour latex paint into pan v-e-r-y slowly and carefully . . .
07)siphon last application of paint into turkey baster . . .
08) inject paint into pool v-e-r-y slowly and carefully and siphon it back out to form and preserve cut line . . .
. . . then I'll just need to siphon off enough paint with the baster to lower the level for safe removal of the formed part without disturbing the remainder of the paint and let it dry . . .
. . . I can then do something along the lines of screwing the flat waste sections to a piece of plywood for clamping while cutting along the paint line with the Ryoba . . .
Using the plastic welder, I can join and fill the imperfections with clear acrylic welding rod and thoroughly test the MacQuarium for leakage.
I should be able to re-create the metal mounting band in plexi at the new "diameter" for solvent welding to the joined/bead filed weld of the two sections. That ought to do a nice job of reinforcing the heat weld joint provide mounting ears and re-create the original appearances all at the same time.
edit: If I cut the inside of the plywood mounting board as a template, I can use the makeshift Router Table to do the greater part of the cutoffs automagically . . . }
. . . that would give me a solid edge to follow and a near perfect mating surface after filing the cuts. MUAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:
00) purchase sacrificial turkey baster at dollar store . . .
01) line a baking sheet with plastic drop cloth . . .
02) find or create a perfectly level surface . . .
03) place baking sheet on level/ed surface . . .
04) place formed section into baking sheet . . .
05) weight section to hold it down against barometric pressure . . .
06) pour latex paint into pan v-e-r-y slowly and carefully . . .
07)siphon last application of paint into turkey baster . . .
08) inject paint into pool v-e-r-y slowly and carefully and siphon it back out to form and preserve cut line . . .
. . . then I'll just need to siphon off enough paint with the baster to lower the level for safe removal of the formed part without disturbing the remainder of the paint and let it dry . . .
. . . I can then do something along the lines of screwing the flat waste sections to a piece of plywood for clamping while cutting along the paint line with the Ryoba . . .
Using the plastic welder, I can join and fill the imperfections with clear acrylic welding rod and thoroughly test the MacQuarium for leakage.
I should be able to re-create the metal mounting band in plexi at the new "diameter" for solvent welding to the joined/bead filed weld of the two sections. That ought to do a nice job of reinforcing the heat weld joint provide mounting ears and re-create the original appearances all at the same time.
edit: If I cut the inside of the plywood mounting board as a template, I can use the makeshift Router Table to do the greater part of the cutoffs automagically . . . }
. . . that would give me a solid edge to follow and a near perfect mating surface after filing the cuts. MUAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: