Uniserver may have some martial-arts energy directing skills up his sleeve, but I think I will stick to the cut-off method that I have used on a small number of boards so far without pad loss.
When you snip off the can and pry the base off the remains of the soldered pins, you can apply the soldering iron tip to the top of the pin, not the pad. When the pad receives enough heat via the pin to melt the solder, the pin just topples over and you can lift it away with tweezers, without putting any stress at all on the pad area. A dab of flux before applying the iron helps a lot, too. Then a tiny dot of solder paste for the replacement.
Sometimes I wind a single strand of solid copper wire around the iron tip (before heating it up!) and extend it a few mm from the tip to get heat into a confined space without cooking any nearby components. It only lasts a few shots, but it is disposable.
Rick
When you snip off the can and pry the base off the remains of the soldered pins, you can apply the soldering iron tip to the top of the pin, not the pad. When the pad receives enough heat via the pin to melt the solder, the pin just topples over and you can lift it away with tweezers, without putting any stress at all on the pad area. A dab of flux before applying the iron helps a lot, too. Then a tiny dot of solder paste for the replacement.
Sometimes I wind a single strand of solid copper wire around the iron tip (before heating it up!) and extend it a few mm from the tip to get heat into a confined space without cooking any nearby components. It only lasts a few shots, but it is disposable.
Rick