2 - Versions of SEGA GameGear Main-Boards
1 - Game Gear Sound board, Same in all versions.
I'm posting this because it might be helpful to our fellow members, and working on these reminded me very much of the Powerbook 100.
Version 1
2 - 100uf 6.3v
1 - 22uf 6.3v
1 - 4.7 35v
2 - .47 50v
1 - 33uf 6.3v
1 - 68uf 6.3v
4 - 10uf 6.3v
Later Version 2
5 - 10uf 6.3v
2 - 10uf 50v
1 - 47uf 6.3v
1 - 1uf 50v
1 - 33uf 6.3v
2 - 100uf 6.3v
Sound Board
3 - 100uf 6.3v
2 - 47uf 4v
As for the replacement caps for these I tried ceramic... does not work, causes issues
I tried Tantilum, nope, Both of these solutions do not provide the raw punch of capacitance you get from an electrolytic.
So just choose radials, and sort by price, I chose the cheapest radials, and they work great in all 4 of the GameGear's i have completed.
and they are all going to be tiny enough, you lay them on their side just like like bad ones you are going to be removing, if you want to glue them down too, feel free.
1 - Game Gear Sound board, Same in all versions.
I'm posting this because it might be helpful to our fellow members, and working on these reminded me very much of the Powerbook 100.
Version 1
2 - 100uf 6.3v
1 - 22uf 6.3v
1 - 4.7 35v
2 - .47 50v
1 - 33uf 6.3v
1 - 68uf 6.3v
4 - 10uf 6.3v
Later Version 2
5 - 10uf 6.3v
2 - 10uf 50v
1 - 47uf 6.3v
1 - 1uf 50v
1 - 33uf 6.3v
2 - 100uf 6.3v
Sound Board
3 - 100uf 6.3v
2 - 47uf 4v
As for the replacement caps for these I tried ceramic... does not work, causes issues
I tried Tantilum, nope, Both of these solutions do not provide the raw punch of capacitance you get from an electrolytic.
So just choose radials, and sort by price, I chose the cheapest radials, and they work great in all 4 of the GameGear's i have completed.
and they are all going to be tiny enough, you lay them on their side just like like bad ones you are going to be removing, if you want to glue them down too, feel free.