I uploaded those pics above at lunch, decided they didn't give a good enough notion of what I'm up to, soooo!
This shows what it will look like with the RFI shielding off. I screwed a pair of (too long) nylon standoffs into the threaded front mounting holes to give an approximation of what I'd like to do.
This is a better view of just how much too long they are, but I only need to use a pair of short mounting bolts to hold on some kind of angled bracket that I can snag with a pair of pliers and yank the little Savvio straight out of the SCA connector on the adapter so I can stick a replacement in there. Yes, the system will be powered down at the time. [
] ]'> For a swap-out implementation, I can't have any kind of ArcticGoop applied to the drive or the drive side of the metal plates, above or below the drives.
I've used the bottom halves of two different 3.5" Card Readers. There's great contact onto the bottom tray from just from the heavy weight of the drive. There will be adequate contact with the pan (now in hood popped mode) that sits on top of the Savvio. It will act as the top limit/guide for interchanging drives and as well as a second heat spreader . . . but I don't know how well those dang stickers transfer heat.
Now I just need to figure out how best to pull the heat off the pans, preferably without needing to scrape the stickers off the top of the drives.
I checked the PlastiCrap rail/sled and it works with only about an inch of throw. Cutting a hole in the sled is no problem at all and using a hole saw to make four holes for the corners and maybe a larger one in the center to hog out most of the waste before I go at the thing with tin snips to complete the slot in the chassis.
I'll then be able to ArcticGoop (made that one up I think, but you know what I mean) a passive or fan powered heat sink to the bottom of the bottom pan directly under the drive. It'll be offset a tad away from the HDD under there in the basement, but close enough to dead-on I think.
I threw this one in to show how the sides of the bottom pan are bent in a tad to hold the adapter upright. There's a low lip running across the bottom of the pan. That's one reason I'm using two of them, the other is that I don't need the case for my application for the second Card Reader PCB anyway. [}] ]'> the adapter PCB is exactly the width of the pan, so all I had to do was trim a slot on the ends of the sides for a tight fit of the PCB. It doesn't move right or left because I trimmed a slot in the MOLEX connector to get it halfway down to the bottom of the pan and I filed notch in the lip so the PCB slips right down to the bottom of the pan with the MOLEX dado fitting into the dado I filed in the lip so they fit together kinda like Lincoln Logs. The adapter can't slip left or right, it can't move backward because of the lip and it can't tilt forward because of the two sides bent in to brace it
I can probably get away with just tapping the mounting holes at the top of the adapter card and screwing the standoffs into the PCB so they abut the back of the pan that sits on top of the drive. That way they'll resist the force of plugging the cable in from the back better than just the bent in sides would.
That adapter card ain't goin' nowhere! If I need to do a popped hood process for drive swaps, that's how it will be. If I can go the slide in-n-out route, I'll drill and tap the backside of the top pan where you can see the little engraved circles in the pics up in the first post. Then bolts screwed into the standoffs through the adapter PCB will really hold that adapter in place.
Okay that's the play book as best as I can describe it. Which way might work best, adequately is good enough, for cooling the drive?
....
This shows what it will look like with the RFI shielding off. I screwed a pair of (too long) nylon standoffs into the threaded front mounting holes to give an approximation of what I'd like to do.
This is a better view of just how much too long they are, but I only need to use a pair of short mounting bolts to hold on some kind of angled bracket that I can snag with a pair of pliers and yank the little Savvio straight out of the SCA connector on the adapter so I can stick a replacement in there. Yes, the system will be powered down at the time. [
] ]'> For a swap-out implementation, I can't have any kind of ArcticGoop applied to the drive or the drive side of the metal plates, above or below the drives.I've used the bottom halves of two different 3.5" Card Readers. There's great contact onto the bottom tray from just from the heavy weight of the drive. There will be adequate contact with the pan (now in hood popped mode) that sits on top of the Savvio. It will act as the top limit/guide for interchanging drives and as well as a second heat spreader . . . but I don't know how well those dang stickers transfer heat.
Now I just need to figure out how best to pull the heat off the pans, preferably without needing to scrape the stickers off the top of the drives.
I checked the PlastiCrap rail/sled and it works with only about an inch of throw. Cutting a hole in the sled is no problem at all and using a hole saw to make four holes for the corners and maybe a larger one in the center to hog out most of the waste before I go at the thing with tin snips to complete the slot in the chassis.
I'll then be able to ArcticGoop (made that one up I think, but you know what I mean) a passive or fan powered heat sink to the bottom of the bottom pan directly under the drive. It'll be offset a tad away from the HDD under there in the basement, but close enough to dead-on I think.
I threw this one in to show how the sides of the bottom pan are bent in a tad to hold the adapter upright. There's a low lip running across the bottom of the pan. That's one reason I'm using two of them, the other is that I don't need the case for my application for the second Card Reader PCB anyway. [}
] ]'> the adapter PCB is exactly the width of the pan, so all I had to do was trim a slot on the ends of the sides for a tight fit of the PCB. It doesn't move right or left because I trimmed a slot in the MOLEX connector to get it halfway down to the bottom of the pan and I filed notch in the lip so the PCB slips right down to the bottom of the pan with the MOLEX dado fitting into the dado I filed in the lip so they fit together kinda like Lincoln Logs. The adapter can't slip left or right, it can't move backward because of the lip and it can't tilt forward because of the two sides bent in to brace itI can probably get away with just tapping the mounting holes at the top of the adapter card and screwing the standoffs into the PCB so they abut the back of the pan that sits on top of the drive. That way they'll resist the force of plugging the cable in from the back better than just the bent in sides would.
That adapter card ain't goin' nowhere! If I need to do a popped hood process for drive swaps, that's how it will be. If I can go the slide in-n-out route, I'll drill and tap the backside of the top pan where you can see the little engraved circles in the pics up in the first post. Then bolts screwed into the standoffs through the adapter PCB will really hold that adapter in place.
Okay that's the play book as best as I can describe it. Which way might work best, adequately is good enough, for cooling the drive?
....