No screws, hidden plastic latches. [}
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There are three internal latches that are best undone with a custom made tool. Look for two access slots (.6 mm high, 13.5 mm wide) left and right, midline along the sides and 4.25 cm back from the front face. Look for one midline access slot 12.5 cm back from the front face on the left. There is a latch 17 cm back from the front face hidden just above the right midline, you will see a rectangular opening 2x4 mm into which a barb engages. If the first three latches can be freed the last one detaches by lifting the entire left side of the case top and hinging the cover clockwise.
The three latch arms arise from the base and need to be pushed inwards to free them from top cover inwards pointing barbs. It's important to push them in one at a time before lifting, because lifting first tends to lock the latch in position.
You might think that a small screwdriver, put into each access slot and pushed in firmly would do, and it might. But most screwdrivers are wedge shaped and immediately start prying the case halves apart before they even begin to bend the latch arm inwards. Better a piece of steel sheet metal .5 mm thick and as wide as will fit the slot, 4 cm or more long, with the last 7 mm bent up at 60 degrees. Stick it through the slot with the bent end upwards, lift the free end to pry the latch arm in with a degree of control not possible with a straight inwards push, then separate the case in that area. Steel tin can material is too thin, but a double length piece folded over and hammered flat might do if thicker stock is not at hand. Yes, tin snips, anvil and hammer can be a part of the computer repair toolkit. [
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] ]'>There are three internal latches that are best undone with a custom made tool. Look for two access slots (.6 mm high, 13.5 mm wide) left and right, midline along the sides and 4.25 cm back from the front face. Look for one midline access slot 12.5 cm back from the front face on the left. There is a latch 17 cm back from the front face hidden just above the right midline, you will see a rectangular opening 2x4 mm into which a barb engages. If the first three latches can be freed the last one detaches by lifting the entire left side of the case top and hinging the cover clockwise.
The three latch arms arise from the base and need to be pushed inwards to free them from top cover inwards pointing barbs. It's important to push them in one at a time before lifting, because lifting first tends to lock the latch in position.
You might think that a small screwdriver, put into each access slot and pushed in firmly would do, and it might. But most screwdrivers are wedge shaped and immediately start prying the case halves apart before they even begin to bend the latch arm inwards. Better a piece of steel sheet metal .5 mm thick and as wide as will fit the slot, 4 cm or more long, with the last 7 mm bent up at 60 degrees. Stick it through the slot with the bent end upwards, lift the free end to pry the latch arm in with a degree of control not possible with a straight inwards push, then separate the case in that area. Steel tin can material is too thin, but a double length piece folded over and hammered flat might do if thicker stock is not at hand. Yes, tin snips, anvil and hammer can be a part of the computer repair toolkit. [
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