Policy on Spam Topics.

Requiescit in Tartaro.

de
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(60x) 13DT + 3PB + PTPro; (G3) 7DT/MT; (G4) 3T + PB. System 8.1 to OS 10.5.8

Was only a matter of time before the cloneys hit the market. I know I got a Aoyue which is a hakko clone soldering/hotgun station and it still works ok. 

I'm glad to hear that the Aoyue/Station works well enough for a hobbyist. Does it put out enough heat to yank a PDS connector off a MoBo?

I can't afford either for a while so it's a moot point. I've gotta try out the Plastic Welder, it's kinda like a precision heat gun for melting/fusing plastic rod (ripped strips of Spindly Plastic ;D ) into a seam. It ought to work well for thru-hole components.

whenever I see one, I just delete the thread and inform Drew of the username. It's probably best not to reply to these.
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[Insert Cool Signature here!]

ah.. you want a desoldering solution for that.

as in the first post of this thread.

i suppose you could use a heat gun.. but would still be rather tricky.

but you would still need to desolder all those holes…  using wick or manual solder sucker would drive you insane.

well.. more so then already, lol 

check. free to delete then.

-digital

Been there, done that . . .



As I tell the folks at work: if you start out stark raving mad, they can't drive you crazy . . .

. . . they can only bring on episodes. ;D

I've renamed the topic. I'm going to leave this thread up since it's now got no spam in it.

Should we create a bit of a policy saying not to reply to spam threads, so that it's easier to delete them without guilt? (I have issues wanting to delete things that legit forum members said.)
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[Insert Cool Signature here!]

Not responding is worthwhile, but the poster needs to stay in the memberlist so that Drew can ban him/her/it/them.

Enlisted also need to be conscious that not even three of us can cover the forum at all hours of every day. I didn't note the time of the OP, but a couple of hours of life was about all it had before its merciful release from this mortal coil.

de
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(60x) 13DT + 3PB + PTPro; (G3) 7DT/MT; (G4) 3T + PB. System 8.1 to OS 10.5.8

ok guy so i' had the HAKKO FR-300 for little over a year now, and i have burn out the heater on it.

Also around the same time i bought this S-993A,  110v version just as picture above, and i had burn the heater out of it as well… 

so i have only used the S-993A about half the amount of time as i have used the FR-300, and both heaters burnt out after a little over a year.

so the original cost of the FR-300 was around $300,  The S-993A was about $100.00

Basically because the S-993A only came with a 2.0 mm tip,  I just used that for Analog boards, because bigger tips are needed anyways.

the Fr-300 came with a 1.0mm tip… and i would say over the time i have used it, i'v bought 2 additional 1.0mm tips… sometimes they get so screwed up, plugged up

you just can't get it clean and once you break the tip cleaner off in the tip its toast… you can drill it out but… the tip cleaner is weird metal...

so i ended up getting one of these and use it after about every job.

( for the FR-300 )



it helps to keep the tip from getting out of control plugged.

also the last 2 replacement tips i got were 1.0mm elongated slim nose… really helps when trying to get between narrow legs of I/C's

the stock 1.0mm tip,  it kind of a fat nose and can cause issues.



so when the heater went out on the FR-300, it was about $65 dollars, and was here in able 3 days.

http://www.bdent.com/hakko-a5000-heater-core.html



the gun is designed to be torn down, and serviced, witch is kind of nice.

The S-993A heater was $15 plus $6 dollars shipping and took DAM near a month to get from china.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361249327143?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



its not as easy or as friendly to take apart, i had to use my fr-300 to desolder the power and temp wires, there was no quick disconnects like with the hakko.

while i was waiting for the heater to drive for the S-993A i decided to order a 1.0mm slim tip for it, and so i can start using it more with MB's instead of just with A/B's

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111334870055?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410319590384&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



this was $7.99 plus $2.99 shipping.

anyways, so i finally got both guns back together… and i just desoldered about 160 pins with the S-993a and the new 1.0mm slim tip and i'd say it works pretty good really.

also i wanted to toss out there the Filter the S-993a comes with is a joke… basically you can shove the standard hakko FR-300/808 style of filter in the tube and they work just fine.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/141116538218?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



so long and short of it …  if you plan to use these things regularly you want to make sure to have tips and heaters on hand… especially for the S-993a because it takes so long to receive things from china, you don't want to be down, and waiting for parts to finish the job you were working on.

other wise if you have a Fr-300,,, they cost more, Parts can get to you pretty fast…  Parts cost more…  The heater lasts about 50% longer then the S-993A… i don't know its a wash…  The S-993A has good suction and does deliver a healthy amount to heat witch is a good thing.  i bought a whole new back up FR-300, so now i have 2of those, little more redundancy. 

I wonder why your heaters burned out? The one in my 808 is still going. And I use the hell out of it. 

forgive me for saying this, but perhaps 3 of you Brass is not enough.

I agree that it's best to just let it go, but i'm glad we are establishing some policy.

-digital

I don't screen individual users - users may self register and self verify.

I'm sure many people would enjoy being moderators or administrators, but the reality is that the number of members we've got doesn't justify having more than the number of moderators we have currently. The three of us try hard to keep the forum clean and free of spam, and I do my best to delete members that we think are spammers. And members that confirm that suspicion by managing to post before I can delete the account are publicly flogged by having their IP and email addresses posted. That last bit may be ineffective, but it makes me feel better.

Spam is difficult to manage. It requires patience from everybody. I know some things that a spammer posts are contentious, disturbing, or of an adult nature, but I'm very confident that even the youngest members we have here are mature enough to deal with the subject matter.

Is there anything I can do to help clarify how we handle spam or spammers?

Thanks for the feedback!

-
Drew
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Power to the PowerPC!

My tip also burned out about two months ago. One of the reasons they do that is probably the warning that came with mine stating that unnecessarily playing with the temperature control shortens the life of the windings.

Still, at $15 I can buy four replacements for the price of one hakko.

Have you considered having a better captcha? I see that you have the default one, which apparently it's easy for spambots to read, whereas the 68kmla has a better one and very rarely seems to get spam signups.
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Main system: custom C2D 2.66GHz tower/4GB RAM/2600XT 512 MB/500GB HD/XP Pro x86+Vista Business x64
Main Mac: Beige G3 minitower (Sonnet G4 500MHz/640 MB DVD/USB/Radeon 32 MB/OS 9.2.2+10.4.11)

I would say a contributing factor to the heaters death Is the fact that when I come in to the shop I turn on my equipment on and leave it on, docked. so I'm ready to rock 'n roll . One thing I will say about the S993A that one millimeter tip that I bought makes the gun so much more useful when working on any board that has multiple layers . So pick yourself up one of those 1 mm tips along with maybe a couple extra heaters . But overall I think the S993 a is a very worthy contender. Otherwise the 2 mm tip that it comes with works just great for analog boards. Or you know basic single layer through hole stuff.

yea I never leave anything on. I learned that lesson the hard way. my old old house, dad had a shop out in the shed and I caught the sucker on fire leaving an old ratshack iron on by accident. I was a kid then. 

If the hakko isnt powerful enough to suck up the solder with its default setting, I use a heatgun assistance method. Pre-heat the board while desoldering. 

works wonders. 

OH BTW, I did break off a cleaner inside my original tip. I had to use a bench vice and a pick tool, tap the fucker out of there. That was nuts. 

I have a 1MM tip that I ordered when the original one went bad, and I have a couple 2.5MM tips. They arnt designed for the 808 but they do fit. Only complaint is the solder gets around the evacuation tube a little bit, Well its not for the 808 so I cant complain. 

I have already had to disassemble and replace the valve reeds twice in the pump. Thats how often I use it. 

BUY VIAGRA! HOT XXX PORN! THESE SPAM TOPICS ARE WAY TOO ANNOYING! THEY SATURATE DEAD FORUMS AND MAKE THEM IMPOSSIBLE TO NAVIGATE! And they must die. If I see one more topic with ksdhbgopiasdngalsk as the title, I am going to nail Viagra and everyone involved with the porn industry to the f**king cross.

Speaking of spam, I once saw this spam post on one message board that said something like "Hi. I would like to show you something I made. I have worked really hard on it.". The link below said "Hot free porn". Those spammers really need to work on their marketing skills. Or just stop spamming altogether. It's certainly not persuading me to buy their product.

Yeah the 808 is built like a harley.

Speaking of spam, I get over 20 spam emails per hour. And about 5 ususally don't get caught by Gmail. It makes me wonder if even one person actually bought "free meds" from one of these messages.

very probably.

I just ordered one of those S993a's, hope it works well.

Yup and like I said you can use those Hakko 808 filters I would order yourself up a 1 mm tip because the one that comes with this too big and get yourself an other heater on the way to keep around and you should have yourself a nice set up

And one person clicking on those spam emails makes their address more valuable, and of course, probably funds thousands of additional spam messages.

Alas.
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[Insert Cool Signature here!]

I'm waiting to get it an test it out before I stock up on extra supplies. I assume the parts will be around a while. Had a $100 voucher from ebay and decided to get this with it.

ok well if you don't at least get that 1mm tip its going to piss you off.  -- I'm just saying.  

its stock tip is way to big for anything on a PCB.

unless you have apple analog boards lined up to do...    Even those LC TDK powersuplies... the tip is to big for anything on that pcb.

when it comes in the temp dial is set to 400c, its good to back it down. aim the arrow toward the LED heater light.

400C is nuts. Ordered the 1mm tip.

Fold old boards I have been using an old Radio Shack desoldering iron with the manual bulb at the end with great results (lead solder). The hole is bigger then 1mm for sure but the suction and easy melting old solder works out well. I removed a Nubus connector from an old Micronet SCSI card and put on a new one using it and didn't go crazy. On the PC side of things the silver solder (especially oxidized) on newer boards is almost impossible to remove without using some extra solder to heat up the joints so that's why I am getting this. There are so many motherboards with bad capacitors out there that are an easy fix.

I don't do reworking for a living, just to fix my vast collections of boards and stuff.

wow, my hats off to you.

I have been using an old Radio Shack desoldering iron with the manual bulb at the end with great results

Click to expand...

I removed a Nubus connector from an old Micronet SCSI card and put on a new one using it and didn't go crazy

Click to expand...

L O L

Yes your crazy…      you can't go crazy if you are already….    LOL

just to fix my vast collections of boards and stuff.

Click to expand...

oh yeah i hear ya…  well then your gonna be a happy camper with this.

it might even make you smile!

Came in today, have to get some time to play with it.

awesome, i keep mine between 375 and 400c,   that way its got enough stored up thermal energy to suck out 4 layer & GRD planes.  but my new 1mm tip already turned purple.. kinda freaky.  it still works like a champ… as long as i keep the tip clean and tinned.

I should probably get one of these at some point.

It should last me a long time, since I don't really need it all too often.

c

I am thinking about getting a pencil/small type heatgun, and strapping it to the side of my hakko. 

This way, any time I run into issues with multilayer boards, I can preheat. 

I do that now, but it takes both of my hands = not elegant. 

I never get the tip hot enough to power through multilayer boards by itself. For one thats a bad idea as its hard on parts, and two thats an extremely localized spot for a heat source and can break hairline traces in the inner layers of the board due to thermal shock, if they connect to that point. 

been there, done that. 

well sounds like you have a method to ur madness

Pushing the envelope of PCB rework tolerances? ;D

JT you should buy one.  

Now I need a cheap hot air rework station.

I'm thinking if you ebay x-tronic... you will get one that is pretty good quality...

i'm pretty sure that you want the one that pushes the air to the wand, from inside the unit.

the ones for 59 dollars that have the blower inside the wand might have some quality issues.

iv bought 2 of that kind,  the super cheap kind with the blower in the wand.  and haven't see first hand any issue with em.

BMOW has one... my wife has the other.

Sounds like Others had quality issues with the cheap cheap ones.

Any luck reflowing video chips with the rework stations?

I'v got a atten 858d (it is exactly the same as the first one uniserver posted, expect for it is branded differently) it cost me about £40 a few years ago and it's been really good, I have even replaced big BGA chips with it (Xbox 360 GPU's and CPU's, with the help of a board preheater (which looks rather like a griddle.... ))

I have heard of some quality issues with them, but i haven't seen any problems yet (my only gripe is that the cable from the unit to the wand is not heat proof, I can't count the number of times i have melted chunks out of the cable (I haven't got through to any of the conductors though))

Heat  resistant plastic is not too flexible .

Ahh that makes sense then, and to be fair most of the chunks melted out of it where from letting the cable lean against the griddle when I was working on Xbox's and not by the wand it's self