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Hardware Guides · 1993 · TXT
Filenamecsm-hardware-faq-221.txt
Size0.10 MB
Year1993
Downloads8
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Contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 1994 08:39:48 +0700
From: eharold@sunspot.noao.edu (Elliotte Harold)
Subject: update hardware faq

Newsgroups: comp.sys.mac.hardware,comp.answers,news.answers
From: elharo@shock.njit.edu (Elliotte Rusty Harold)
Reply-To: elharo@shock.njit.edu (Elliotte Harold)
Organization: Department of Mathematics, NJIT
Summary: This document answers several of the most frequently asked 
	questions about Macintosh hardware on Usenet.  To avoid 
	wasting bandwidth and as a matter of politeness please 
	familiarize yourself with this document BEFORE posting.
Subject: Macintosh hardware frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Keywords: FAQ, Macintosh, mac, macintosh, Mac, hardware
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.edu
Followup-To: comp.sys.mac.hardware

Archive-name: macintosh/hardware-faq
Version: 2.2.1
Last-modified: June 12, 1994

Frequently Asked Questions about Macintosh Hardware
===================================================


               comp.sys.mac.faq, part six:
               comp.sys.mac.hardware
 
               Copyright 1993,1994 by Elliotte Harold
               Please see section 5.8 of the general FAQ if you wish to 
               redistribute, revise or republish this document in any way.

               Archive-name:  macintosh/hardware-faq
               Version:       2.2.1
               Last-modified: May 18, 1994


What's new in version 2.2.1:
----------------------------

    4.1: What kind of memory should I use in my Mac?
    
         The Mac IIvx can use 2 megabyte SIMMs.

    5.2:  All monitors are not created equal.

         I've added a small table of the WYSIWIG resolutions for common
    monitor sizes.

    Appendix A: I've added info about the new Powerbook 520 and 540
    and the Duo 280 models.


                         Table of Contents                        
==================================================================

I.   Maintenance
      1.  How do I clean a keyboard?
      2.  How do I clean a screen?
      3.  How do I clean a mouse?
      4.  How do I clean a floppy drive?
      5.  How do I clean the inside of my mac?
II.  Problems And Repairs 
      1.  How do I open a compact Mac?
      2.  Now that I've opened my Mac how might I electrocute myself? 
      3.  Where can I get my Mac fixed?
      4.  Can you recommend any good books about Mac repair?
      5.  The screen on my compact Mac is jittering.
III. Upgrades
      1.  What Macs will be upgradeable to the PowerPC?
      2.  Can I increase the speed of my Mac by accelerating the clock?
      3.  Can I add an FPU to my Mac?  
      4.  Can I replace the 68LC040 with a 68040?
IV.  Thanks for the Memory
      1.  What kind of memory should I use in my Mac?
      2.  Can I use PC SIMM's in my Mac?
      3.  What vendors have good prices on memory?
      4.  Do SIMMdoublers work?
V.   Video
      1.  What's VRAM?
      2.  All monitors are not created equal.
      3.  There's a horizontal line across my monitor.
VI.  Floppy Disks
      1.  What kind of floppy disks do I need for my Mac?
      2.  Why can't my Quadra (SE/30, Iici, etc.) read the disks from my Plus?
      3.  Does punching a hole in a double-density disk make a high-density disk?
VII.  SCSI Troubles
      1.  How do I put my old internal hard disk in an external case?
      2.  What's the cheapest/fastest/most reliable/most common removable drive?
      3.  What's the best CD-ROM drive?
VIII. Printers
      1. What's a good printer?
IX.   Miscellaneous hardware FAQ's 
      1. What power adaptor do I need to use my mac in another country?
      2. How can I fix the sound on my IIsi?
A.    Models
 

RETRIEVING THE ENTIRE FAQ
=========================

       The file you are reading now contains only hardware
  information. This is the SIXTH part of this FAQ.  Many other topics
  of interest to comp.sys.mac.hardware readers are covered in other
  FAQ lists in the Macintosh newsgroups. The first part of this
  document is also posted to this newsgroup under the subject heading
   "Introductory Macintosh frequently asked questions (FAQ)" and
  includes a complete table of contents for the entire document as
  well as information on where to post, ftp, file decompression,
  trouble-shooting, and preventive maintenance.  The second part is
  posted to comp.sys.mac.system and features many questions about
  system software.  The third part is posted to comp.sys.mac.misc,
  the fourth to comp.sys.mac.apps and the fifth part to
  comp.sys.mac.wanted.  All answer many questions that often
  erroneously appear in comp.sys.mac.hardware.  Please familiarize
  yourself with all five sections of this document before posting.
  
       All pieces are available for anonymous ftp from rtfm.mit.edu
  [18.70.0.209] in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers/macintosh. 
  Except for the introductory FAQ which appears in multiple newsgroups
  and is stored as general-faq, the name of each file has the format
  of the last part of the group name followed by "-faq", e.g the 
  FAQ for comp.sys.mac.system is stored as system-faq and the FAQ 
  for comp.sys.mac.misc is stored as misc-faq.  You can also 
  have these files mailed to you by sending an E-mail message 
  to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the line:
       send pub/usenet/news.answers/macintosh/"name"  
  in the body text where "name" is the name of the file you want as 
  specified above (e.g. general-faq).  Send this server a message 
  with the subject "help" for more detailed instructions.  For 
  access via Mosaic use the URL
  http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/macintosh/top.html




==================
MAINTENANCE  (1.0)
==================

       First a word about tools: many basic household items will 
  serve you well when taking care of a Mac but not all.  Under no 
  circumstances should you use a Dustbuster or other common handvac to 
  clean electronic equipment.  Instead you need a specially designed 
  vacuum cleaner with a conducting, grounded nozzle.  These normally 
  cost about $40 in electronics supply stores.  Most paper towels are 
  adequate for cleaning computer equipment.  However Scott brand 
  towels do have lower rag content than any other commonly available 
  towel and are less likely to leave paper fibers behind on your 
  equipment.


HOW DO I CLEAN A KEYBOARD?  (1.1)
---------------------------------

       For basic cleaning a little isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a 
  Scott towel works well.  Common household cleaners like Formula 409 
  also do a nice job.  To perform a more thorough cleaning you'll need 
  to take the keyboard apart.  Depending on the type of keyboard 
  you'll need one or more of a Phillips head screwdriver, a Torx T-15 
  screwdriver, and a special tool almost impossible to find when you 
  really really need it which goes by the technical name of "key 
  puller."  Disassemble the keyboard, pull off all the keys, and use a 
  can of compressed air or an electronics vac to clean out all the 
  dust bunnies that have mated and grown and had children and mated 
  again and built apartment complexes and shopping malls inside your 
  keyboard.  (I don't know why, but keyboards attract far more 
  detritus than any other computer component.)  Finally if you spilled 
  Mountain Dew, coffee or some other liquid substance into the 
  keyboard, clean it with lukewarm water and a soft towel.  Use 
  isopropyl alcohol on any remaining sticky spots.


HOW DO I CLEAN A SCREEN?  (1.2)
-------------------------------

       First turn off the monitor.  Spray a small amount of Windex or 
  any other common glass cleaner onto a paper towel, NOT directly onto 
  the screen.  Then wipe the paper towel over the screen.  Finally 
  wipe the screen clean with a dry paper towel.


HOW DO I CLEAN A MOUSE?  (1.3)
------------------------------

       Poor mouse tracking is normally a sign of dirty contacts.  To 
  clean them get a cassette tape head cleaning solution from any audio 
  store.  Turn off the Mac.  Then unplug the mouse.  The bottom plate 
  of the mouse that holds the ball in place can be removed by pushing 
  down and twisting (like a child-proof medicine cap).  The ball will 
  probably fall out when the plate is removed so be ready to catch it.  
  There's nothing quite so annoying as having to crawl around on the 
  floor looking under the furniture for a mouse ball.  Dip a cotton 
  swab in the solution.  Then rub it on the three ball contacts until 
  they appear clean to the eye.  Finally clean the ball itself with 
  soap and water and dry it with a paper towel.


HOW DO I CLEAN A FLOPPY DRIVE?  (1.4)
-------------------------------------

       Normally you don't need to.  Several companies sell floppy 
  drive cleaning kits that consist of nothing more than a disk and 
  some cleaning fluid for anywhere from five to twenty-five dollars.  
  These are almost as pointless as the CD cleaning kits sold to 
  overenthusiastic CD owners.  I'd only use one of these if I was 
  already experiencing problems that were identifiably linked to the 
  floppy drive rather than individual disks.  Cleaning a floppy drive 
  should not be part of normal maintenance.  When you do need to clean 
  a floppy drive, Apple recommends the 3M floppy drive cleaning kit.

       If you have a vacuum cleaner designed for electronic equipment, 
  you can always run it across the floppy slit, but even that is 
  rarely necessary.  Or you can disassemble the Mac and use a can of 
  compressed air to blow the dust out of the floppy drive.  Don't do 
  this without disassembling the Mac first though since otherwise 
  you'll just blow dust deeper inside your computer.  And even when 
  the Mac is taken apart, be careful to blow the air AWAY from the 
  motor.  If you blow air into the drive motor, you'll forcing dust 
  into it and make the drive more likely to fail.


HOW DO I CLEAN THE INSIDE OF MY MAC?  (1.5)
-------------------------------------------

       I don't advise taking a Mac apart just to clean it; but if 
  you've already dismantled it as part of another upgrade or repair, 
  blowing accumulated dust away with a can of compressed air won't 
  hurt.  You can also use a specially designed computer vacuum 
  cleaner, but don't use a normal hand vac like a Dustbuster as 
  there's a small chance of damage to your Mac from the static 
  electricity it builds up.

       On the other hand if during one of those late night football 
  games through the halls of your office someone drop-kicked a 
  half-full can of Mountain Dew straight through the uprights of your 
  cubicle onto your Mac (or if you've spilled a soda or some other 
  messy substance into the Mac in some less creative fashion), you 
  will need to clean it out.  Unplug the Mac and let it sit for at 
  least an hour.  It is essential to give all the parts of your Mac 
  time to discharge since you'll be cleaning it with water.  Take the 
  Mac apart as described in the next section.  Then clean it with 
  lukewarm tap water.  Use a soft toothbrush to clean anything that 
  doesn't come off with water alone.  Let the disassembled Mac air dry 
  for a couple of days, (Don't even think about using a hair dryer.) 
  and then put it back together.



===========================
PROBLEMS AND REPAIRS  (2.0)
===========================

HOW DO I OPEN A COMPACT MAC?  (2.1)
-----------------------------------

       You need a Torx T-15 screwdriver, at least eight inches long, 
  available from any decent electronics supply shop, and a special 
  tool referred to as a "Mac Cracker."  (In a pinch you can use a 
  spring loaded paper clip or even a three-sided ruler.)   Before 
  starting clear off a large, flat work area and get an ash tray, 
  glass, or other container to hold the various small screws you need 
  to remove.

       First disconnect all cables, most especially the power cable.  
  For maximum safety you should only work on your Mac after it's been 
  turned off for an hour so that various high-voltage capacitors have 
  had time to fully discharge.  Lay the Mac face down on a soft towel 
  in your work space.  If you're working on a Plus or earlier Mac 
  remove the battery cover and battery.  Then unscrew all the screws 
  with the T-15 screwdriver.  There are four of them on SE's and 
  Classics, two hidden inside the handle and two above the ports on 
  the bottom of the Mac.  The Plus and earlier Macs have five screws 
  including one under the battery cover.  After the screws are 
  removed, wedge the cracking tool into the seam and pry the two 
  pieces of the case apart.  Then carefully lift the back cover off 
  and place it down in your work space.  Finally inside you'll find a 
  metallic RF shield covering the ports which can easily be removed.


NOW THAT I'VE OPENED MY MAC HOW MIGHT I ELECTROCUTE MYSELF?  (2.2)
------------------------------------------------------------------

       Like most computers a Macintosh contains lots of exciting 
  high voltage equipment that can deliver shocks ranging from mildly 
  surprising to motherboard-frying to lethal.  Since compact Macs cram 
  the high voltage picture tube and power supply into the same cramped 
  space shared with the motherboard, they're particularly dangerous.  
  If you're intent on committing computer-assisted suicide, here 
  are a few simple procedures that will greatly enhance your chance 
  of success:

* Be sure the computer and all cables are plugged in when you 
  work on it.  It's difficult (though not impossible) to get a good, 
  solid shock without at least 120 volts of AC surging through the 
  works.

* Wear lots of metal jewelry.  Long, dangling gold bracelets make 
  the most effective unexpected electrical contact between the picture 
  tube and your heart.

* Naturally you yourself want to be nice and clean before working 
  on your Mac so take a long shower.  Don't bother to dry off though.  
  The heat from your Mac should dry you just fine.

* Pay special attention to the picture tube and flyback 
  transformer.  Fondle them.  Know them.  Love them.  If you're still 
  conscious take apart the power supply.  (That's the silver box with 
  the big red warning letters on it.)

* Invite all your pets and small children to watch you work.  
  However there's no reason to invite an adult who might have the 
  presence of mind to call 911 should you be injured.


WHERE CAN I GET MY MAC FIXED?  (2.3)
------------------------------------

       If it's been less than a year since you bought the Mac, then 
  by all means bring it to a local Apple authorized dealer to get it 
  fixed under warranty for free.  Not all dealers are created equal, 
  and you don't have to get your Mac repaired by the same dealer you 
  bought it from.  Ask around locally to find out which one has the 
  best reputation for fast, dependable, hassle-free service.  

       After the warranty has expired an Apple dealer is generally not 
  the best (and certainly not the cheapest) place to have your Mac 
  fixed.  A typical Apple authorized repair consists of swapping out 
  the entire malfunctioning subsystem.  It's not at all uncommon for 
  Apple dealers to repair small problems by motherboard swaps that 
  cost almost as much or even more than a new Mac.  For out of 
  warranty repairs your best bet is an unauthorized repair shop that 
  specializes in component level repairs.  Be sure to find one that 
  specializes in Macintosh repairs, not a PC shop that does Macs 
  on the side.  Again seek advice from local bulletin boards and 
  user groups.

       If there are no reliable local repair shops, a number of 
  mail-order repair shops advertise in the back pages of MacUser and 
  MacWorld.  Personally I find it horribly inconvenient to package and 
  ship a Mac just to get a flyback transformer replaced, but most of 
  these shops do offer reliable repairs at very competitive prices 
  and many people on the net swear by one or another.


CAN YOU RECOMMEND ANY GOOD BOOKS ABOUT MAC REPAIR?  (2.4)
---------------------------------------------------------

       Larry Pina has written several excellent guides to repairing 
  Macs.  Mac Classic & SE Repair and Upgrade Secrets (Peachpit Press, 
  $28, ISBN #1-56609-022-9) covers the SE, SE/30, Classic, and Classic 
  II.  This volume offers moderately detailed instructions for someone 
  with prior electronics experience to diagnose common problems, do 
  component level repairs and perform upgrades on compact Macs.  
  Macintosh Repair and Upgrade Secrets (Hayden Books $24.95, ISBN 
  #0-672-48452-8) is an earlier version of this book which covers 
  compact Macs from the 128K to the SE and the Lisa.  Pina's sequel, 
  Macintosh II Repair and Upgrade secrets, $39.95, ISBN 
  #0-13-929530-5, offers similar coverage of the Mac II family of 
  Machines.  All these books include valuable diagnostic software 
  on a bundled disk.  Before delving into this volume you should 
  be comfortable wielding a soldering iron on expensive equipment.  
  Finally he's also written the somewhat less technical and more 
  detailed Dead Mac Scrolls (PeachPit Press, ISBN #0-940235-25-0, $32) 
  which offers symptom-based procedures for diagnosing and repairing 
  many common problems.  This book includes good advice about how to 
  find and deal with a repair shop.  All four books deserve a place 
  in the library of anyone who intends to wield a soldering iron on 
  their Mac.


THE SCREEN ON MY COMPACT MAC IS JITTERING.  (2.5)
-------------------------------------------------

       Nine times out of ten this is a symptom of a failing flyback 
  transformer.  It may be accompanied by high-pitched whines and even 
  the smell of burnt ozone.  This is a warning that the demise of the 
  Mac is imminent!  Turn it off and don't use it again till the video 
  is fixed.  If the flyback transformer is in this bad a shape, 
  chances are that other components either already have failed or 
  soon will.  However many expensive parts of the video subsystem are 
  probably working just fine so this is one common problem that can 
  often be fixed much more cheaply by a component-level repair shop 
  than by an authorized dealer who'll likely swap out the entire 
  video board.


===============
UPGRADES  (3.0)
===============

WHAT MACS WILL BE UPGRADEABLE TO THE POWERPC?  (3.1)
----------------------------------------------------

       Apple will provide logic board replacements for all Centris, 
  Quadra and WorkGroup Server models except the Quadra 700, 900 and 
  950.  There should also be logic board replacements for the IIvx, 
  IIvi, LC 475, 520, 550, and 575, Performa 475, 476, 550, and 600.  
  Upgraded AV Macs will lose their special video capabilities, at 
  least initially.  Apple will also make available PowerPC processor 
  upgrade boards that fit into the PDS slots of the Quadra 605, 610, 
  650, 700, 800, 900, and 950 as well as the Centris 610 and 650 and 
  the Performa 475 and 476.  Macs upgraded via a PDS card run at twice 
  the speed of the system clock.  Thus a 25 MHz 68040 Mac with a PDS 
  accelerator will become a 50 MHz PowerMac.  You'll be able to 
  disable the accelerator if you have old software that's not PowerPC 
  compatible or that just plain runs faster on the older hardware.  
  68030 desktop Macs with expansion slots will be upgradeable via 
  third party accelerator cards.  It is not yet known whether any 
  upgrade will be available for Powerbooks.


CAN I INCREASE THE SPEED OF MY MAC BY ACCELERATING THE CLOCK?  (3.2)
--------------------------------------------------------------------

       Apple engineers designed the Mac IIsi to run at 25 megahertz.  
  Apple marketeers made them reduce the speed by 20% so as not to hurt 
  sales of the IIci.  Thus with various caveats it is generally safe 
  to accelerate a IIsi to 25 Mhz by changing the clock chip…

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Home Documents Hardware Guides Powerbook Lcd Displays
Powerbook Lcd Displays

Powerbook Lcd Displays

Hardware Guides · 1992 · TXT
Filenamepowerbook-lcd-displays.txt
Size0.00 MB
Year1992
Downloads6
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Contents
Subject: PowerBook screens 
From: John A Savage <troc@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1992 17:58:24 -0500 

Hi

This is a copy of the report I made about PowerBook LCD displays a week or two
back. Due to numerous requests, I have decided to submit it to you, for the
reports directory, or the digest or whatever is most apropriate. I have never
really done this before, so I hope all goes well.......

********************************************************************************
 This is a more detailed description of how an LCD display works. I will not
 go into detail about the difference between Active/Passive etc. This is
 purely to explain the ScreenSaver effects and things.
 
 For all Chemists out there, I realise this discussion isn't totally accurate
 but it is 'correct' and I can't be bothered to give a lecture course on nematic
 crystals!! :-)

 1. An LCD consists, basically, of two polaroid materials (get those sunglasses
 out!) which are 'crossed' That is, no light passes through them as they cancel
 each other out. To demonstrate this, put two pairs of polaroid sunglasses at
 right angles, no light. Between these polaroids is a 'liquid crystal' This is
 a chemical that 'bends' or 'rotates' light, the more of it there is, the more
 the light is bent. The inside surfaces of the polaroids are coated with a 
 chemical that makes the liquid crystal (nematic) line up, with all the crystals pointing in the same direction. These chemicals ensure that 'at the polaroids
 the nematic lies in the plane of the polaroid. Now, because they are crossed,
 the nematic rotate by 90 degrees as you go from one polaroid th the other.

    -----------  ..... Polaroid
    --> --> -->  ..... nematic

    -> -> -> ->

    |  |  |  |   .... nematic at right angles to other nematic
    -----------

 Now, before with no nematic, no light got through but, because the nematic
 rotates the light which passes through it, the light is rotated by 90 degrees
 by the time it gets through and passes through the bottom polaroid. This is
'OFF' for an LCD and is white (clear, or whatever)

 2. Another property of nematics is that they line up in an electrical field
 apply an current and they all point along it. Well, if we do that to the
 cell above, so that all the nematics are pointing upwards, then they don't
 rotate the light at all, and the LCD goes dark, due to the crossed polaroids

 Well that's it the difference between Active and Passive is down to how the
 different pixels are turned on/off.

 Ok, so what about screen savers, well first you dont need one, as there is
 nothing to burn in, no chemical reaction (or otherwise) occurs, these things
 last for ever (nearly) Second, it is possible that a screen saver that blacks
 the screen could reduce the life of the display as that requires current to
 flow.

 This system relies on the fact that these crystal tend to line up. But at high
 temperatures, they don't line up so well, and bend the light all over the 
 place, causine the screen to go black. All you do is let it cool down and they
 behave again.

 If a display is left on for a while, the picture may 'lock' this is because
 once the current has been turned off, the crystals have to move back to where
 they were before, and this can take some time. Don't worry they realign 
 eventually.

 Liquid Crystal Displays require very small amounts of power and hence produce
 no 'emissions' to worry about (no powerful beams of electrons to Zap you!!!)

 Any questions, don't hesitate to ask

 I hope that helps, anybody near a good library, just find a decent Chemistry
 Textbook on the subject!

 John


:-}

!---------------------------------------!-------------------------------------!
! John Savage : Troc@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu ! Wot no disclaimer?                  !
!---------------------------------------!-------------------------------------!
Home Documents Hardware Guides Power Cycle
Power Cycle

Power Cycle

Hardware Guides · 1993 · TXT
Filenamepower-cycle.txt
Size0.01 MB
Year1993
Downloads6
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Contents
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1993 11:07:50 -0800 
From: thorn@leland.stanford.edu (Shannon Thornburg)
Subject: Macintosh Power Off/On Article 

Several people have requested copies of the article by Tim Oey on turning
Macs on/off and how it affects computer lifetime.  This is information that
everyone who owns a Mac should look at, since it gives guidelines on how
you can make your computer last as long as possible.  Tim has generously
agreed to make the information available electronically.

Here is the latest version of that article, in text format.  See the notes
at the end for more information on distribution guidelines.


(Moderators:  this should probably be archived as something like
info-mac/info/hdwr/power-cycle.txt or off-not-off.txt)



ARTICLE BEGINS HERE

To Off or Not to Off, That Is the Question
 
by Timothy S. Oey
 
Over the years, there has been much controversy about whether it is better to
turn your computer off when it isn't used or leave it on continuously. This is
not a simple question to answer, and as it turns out there are many different,
but valid, answers. For the purposes of this discussion, we'll assume that
"better" means that the computer will last longer.
 
The simple answer to this question is: It's usually best to turn the computer
off whenever it won't be used for 8 hours or more. So if you use your computer
frequently during the day, as many do at work, turn it on in the morning and
off at night. If you use your computer less (a home computer for example), then
it is even more advantageous to turn your machine off. Besides, in both cases
you'll save energy.
 
Now if you'd like a more complete answer, or would like to know the details
behind the above conclusion, please read on.
 
The following information was distilled from numerous conversations with
engineers at Apple Computer, Conner Peripherals, and Quantum Corporation. The
conclusions reached are not necessarily those of any of these companies or the
engineers, but they are an attempt to derive information which the average
computer user should find helpful.
 
To maximize the total number of successful operational hours for any computer
device (i.e., maximize power-on hours), all computer devices (hard disks, CPUs,
monitors, other electronics) should be turned on and left on forever until they
fail. The number of power-on hours is what most engineers measure, and so
they'll tell you to leave your computer on all the time to maximize them.
 
But this does not necessarily mean that you, the user, will maximize the amount
of productive time you get out of the computer. For instance, during the night
the computer may be on but it may not be accomplishing anything for the user.
Let's call this productive time the user's perceived system life span. It's the
span of time over which the user is getting useful work out of the computer.
Users are probably more interested in maximizing their computer's perceived
system life span than the actual number of power-on hours.
 
Regardless of the wear caused by turning your computer on and off, there are
other factors that can have a much greater impact on your computer's life
expectancy. It is very important to treat your computer with care. Although not
the focus of this article, here is a brief list of common sense dos and don'ts
that will help ensure a lasting and worthwhile relationship between you and
your computer:
1. Keep it in a dust/dirt/smoke-free environment.
2. Don't spill things on it. Keep it dry.
3. Use a surge protector.
4. Don't drop it or jar it severely.
5. Use a screen saver to prevent monitor burn-in.
6. Keep it cool (room temperature) and out of the sun.
7. Don't block its ventilation slots.
8. Back up your files -- all systems are guaranteed to fail sooner or later.
 
Before we go on, be reminded that reliability is a complex probabilistic
science. Yes, probability and statistics can be tricky, but they are necessary
for determining when a computer is likely to fail. Manufacturers often use the
term MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) as an indication of reliability. This
means that, given a large number of computers, the average one will run X hours
before a failure occurs -- X being its MTBF. This does not mean that yours or
mine will last X hours. It only means that ours will probably last about that
long. There is no way that a manufacturer can determine exactly how long any
given computer will last, just as it is not possible to determine exactly how
long you will live, assuming normal circumstances.
 
Manufacturing defects tend to be the single largest cause of computer hardware
failure. Manufacturers cannot guarantee that every device they make is perfect.
However, some are better at minimizing the number of problems that occur.
Apple(R) Computer, for instance, does an amazing amount of testing on all of
its computers and peripherals, as well as keeping close track of failure rates
in the field. Most well-known manufacturers do a good job in terms of design
and manufacturing. You will nearly always be better off, in terms of
reliability, if you buy equipment from reputable manufacturers. This cannot be
stressed enough.
 
The whole point of buying a computer is to accomplish useful work. Be careful
of the tradeoff between cost and the amount of useful work you will be able to
get from your computer. The same goes for disk size, CPU speed, number of
colors, etc. These don't necessarily mean that you will maximize the utility
you get from your computer. Yes, there are worthwhile bargains out there, but
you get what you pay for.
 
Many believe that turning a computer system on is the primary reason for
failure, because most systems fail at this time. This is not necessarily true.
It's just that this is the most likely time for weaknesses to become apparent,
because this is when the computer system undergoes its greatest stress.
Turning your computer on and off regularly (as prescribed above) may be even
more advantageous than it first appears, especially in the first year of
ownership. The stress of turning a machine on and off makes it more likely that
any manufacturing defects will become apparent sooner rather than later -- and
hopefully before the warranty runs out. Once manufacturing defects are weeded
out, it is highly likely that a computer will run for quite a while before wear
causes a failure.
 
Assuming the average benign environment, the most significant causes of wear,
in rough order from most to least, are:
1. Heat
2. Power cycling (turning a machine on/off)
3. Power-on hours
4. Humidity/salt/airborne pollutants
5. Age (yes, some components incur wear even when not used)
 
Heat is a problem because electronic components may burn out if not cooled
sufficiently. Excessive heat can damage any component, especially physically
moving ones such as disk drives. Power supplies are sometimes a bit erratic for
the first few microseconds when first turned on, resulting in initial power
surges. Heating/cooling cycles can cause joint failures due to differing
expansion properties between materials. The various wear factors have the
greatest impact during power-on hours. Monitor phosphors and filaments
eventually burn out. Humidity, salt, and pollutants can corrode various parts.
Simple aging can also have an effect, although this is very small compared with
the others. There are countless other effects related to the above causes -- to
many to enumerate here.
 
Note that turning computer systems on and off vs. leaving them on may not
really matter much for today's average user buying new equipment. Computer
equipment is increasingly well engineered and reliable. It is much more likely
to become obsolete than wear out.
 
Hard disk drives, for instance, are by far the most likely component of a
computer system to wear out because they are mechanical and undergo fairly high
stress. Most of the other components -- power supplies, monitors, logic boards,
other electronics -- last significantly longer in comparison. Since hard disks
are the weakest link in the computer, we'll focus on them for the remainder of
our discussion.
 
Most high-quality hard disk drives are rated for an average of 20,000 on/off
cycles and an MTBF of 25,000 hours or more. If you turn your machine on/off
once a day, it will take 55 years to reach 20,000 cycles. An MTBF of 25,000
hours means that the average hard disk should last about that long, and 25,000
hours is equal to 2.9 years of non-stop running. Again, remember that these
numbers reflect probabilities, not certainties. In testing, hard disks
sometimes survive 100,000 on/off cycles and the equivalent of 1,000,000 hours
of continuous operation. On the other hand, some fail much sooner.
 
<<1993 Update: Since the time this article was first written (Feb 1990), hard
drive reliability has increased.  MTBF ratings for most drives (as of 1993) are
now in the 250,000 to 350,000 hour range. However, the basis for calculating
these hours appears to have changed from an MTBF based on power-on hours to an
MTBF based on total hours (on and off). The drive manufacturers may have
incorporated typical use patterns into their calculations to boost the MTBF
number and perhaps give people a number that on average is more meaningful --
250,000 hours translates to 29 years of average use.  Regardless, while hard
disk drives may or may not be the weakest link in the computer anymore, and
while MTBF ratings for other components may or may not have increased
correspondingly, the logic above and below remains valid even though some
numbers may have changed.>>
 
Now the question is: How much wear does turning a system on and off really
cause? This is something that no one seems to have calculated yet. In fact,
most will not even hazard a guess. However, let's take a crude and somewhat
pessimistic guess that relates on/off wear to power-on-hours wear for
comparative purposes. Let's say that the wear caused by turning a machine on
and off is roughly equivalent to that caused by 8 power-on hours.
 
To do a rough calculation of how long a system will last if we turn it on and
off each day, let's assume that a business computer is on for 8 hours each day,
5 days a week, 52 weeks a year, and that power-off time causes essentially no
wear. Let's also assume that the MTBF for our computer is about 25,000 hours
(this may be optimistic for a whole system, but it's good enough for our
purposes). This yields the following equations, where <life span in weeks> is
the user's perceived life span for the computer system:
 
<on/off wear in hours>
= <life span in weeks> * 5 cycles/week * 8 hours/cycle
= <life span in weeks> * 40 hours/week
 
<power-on wear in hours>
= <life span in weeks> * 5 cycles/week * 8 hours/cycle
= <life span in weeks> * 40 hours/week
 
<<on/off wear in hours> + <power-on wear in hours> = 25,000 hours
 
<life span in weeks> * 40 hours/week + <life span in weeks> * 40 hours/week =
25,000 hours
<life span in weeks> * 80 hours/week = 25,000 hours
<life span in weeks> = (25,000/80) weeks = 312.5 weeks = 6.0 years
 
If we leave the computer on continuously:
 
<on/off wear in hours>
= 0
 
<power-on wear in hours>
= <life span in weeks> * 24 hours/day * 7 days/week
= <life span in weeks> * 168 hours/week
 
<on/off wear in hours> + <power-on wear in hours> = 25,000 hours
 
0 + <life span in weeks> * 168 hours/week = 25,000 hours
<life span in weeks> = (25,000/168) weeks = 148.8 weeks = 2.9 years
 
Notice that the first case yields twice the life span of the second case,
although the actual number of successful power-on hours is halved. A computer
used less frequently would yield even better results.
 
Bottom line: Turn your system off when you won't be using it for 8 hours or
more. But for the most part don't worry about it, because if you bought your
computer system from a reliable manufacturer, it will probably last a very long
time without any hardware failures. It is much more likely to become obsolete
than it is to wear out. Remember that all systems will fail eventually, so keep
backups.
 
 
Copyright (c) 1990, 1993  Timothy S. Oey.  Tim Oey is a project manager at
Apple Computer and the Forum Leader for BikeNet on America Online.  He can be
reached at TheCyclist@aol.com, oey@aol.com or oey@apple.com.  Permission is
granted to distribute this article electronically for free as long as it
remains a complete whole.  Please contact the author if you wish to re-publish
the article in some other form.
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