Thread
Raoul Duke's Gonzo Adventures
Sorry... I have to be a tool like everyone else. (Follow-up... sorry everyone else).
As I was careening through the streets this morning in a rented convertible Cadillac, I came upon an outwardly pristine LC with a pretty good condition 12" RGB monitor. As best I can tell the monitor works fine; I haven't actually tried it with a working mac.
The LC was open (beautiful day; no rain) but its PSU connector was disconnected. I wasn't surprised when there were no signs of electrical life. So how do I replace the PSU? Alternatively I might part out the LC. I didn't really expect to find it and I've never been a huge fan of LCs. Conversely, I have no other 68020 machines.
As I was careening through the streets this morning in a rented convertible Cadillac, I came upon an outwardly pristine LC with a pretty good condition 12" RGB monitor. As best I can tell the monitor works fine; I haven't actually tried it with a working mac.
The LC was open (beautiful day; no rain) but its PSU connector was disconnected. I wasn't surprised when there were no signs of electrical life. So how do I replace the PSU? Alternatively I might part out the LC. I didn't really expect to find it and I've never been a huge fan of LCs. Conversely, I have no other 68020 machines.
The PSU connector is disconnected? Do you mean that the physical connector that goes into the motherboard has become detached/broken off of the PSU?
No, someone (clearly) had disconnected it; nothing is broken. The 80SC drive is in there (I may test it later); otherwise the floppy drive is missing its door. Everything else looks really nice. I just checked eBay and I'm not in a hurry to pay at least $30 to replace the PSU.
There was also a PRAM battery (oddly from 96, so someone probably changed it; the machine is liberally internally labeled 1990). I'm assuming there would be some sign of life even with a bad PRAM battery? (Idk if the LC needs a PRAM battery to boot - so far none of my models have so I'm not familiar with those that do/may.)
There was also a PRAM battery (oddly from 96, so someone probably changed it; the machine is liberally internally labeled 1990). I'm assuming there would be some sign of life even with a bad PRAM battery? (Idk if the LC needs a PRAM battery to boot - so far none of my models have so I'm not familiar with those that do/may.)
Obviously (I would guess to anyone who knows LCs) it's not a PRAM battery issue.
The LC does not need a PRAM Battery to Boot.
The PSU, unless one of the transformers blown, can be fixed with a Recap. But the LC will need a Recap too.
The PSU, unless one of the transformers blown, can be fixed with a Recap. But the LC will need a Recap too.
Well I was thinking about recapping it (almost regardless of whether I keep it - it's good practice and I am increasingly unsure I can fix my SE/30's C12 pads). But yea I just wanted to turn it on first. If it's just a cap issue (and there are no obvious signs of physical damage - blackness/charring etc.), would there potentially be no signs of life? When I flip the power switch in the back and try a soft boot from the keyboard I get nothing at all.
(If it's just a cap issue with the PSU I meant - sorry)
With an LC, to boot just flip the switch on the PSU. If you listen closely, you should hear "tick tick tick" which means you need a recap. I have the capacitors you need to do an entire recap for $10 shipped. This assumes you have a TDK PSU, I don't have capacitors for anything else.
Yes. There is a low clicking I didn't hear the first couple times. Good. However, a closer look at the logic board reveals it definitely needs to be totally recapped... I may have some of the P1 caps it uses, but I don't know if this is worth it to me - to spend like $20/30 even if it does work in the end. It is TDK. I'll get back to you on the recap kit. Maybe toward the end of the summer.
I was watching a youtube video of an LC PSU recap after which the guy hit the PSU with a hairdryer to apparently help with the caps he had not replaced. I guess any chance that might help? (I'm guessing not - I did unplug everything I could think of (HD, floppy, fan/speaker - and RAM and ROM why not...) but that didn't affect anything.
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I was watching a youtube video of an LC PSU recap after which the guy hit the PSU with a hairdryer to apparently help with the caps he had not replaced. I guess any chance that might help? (I'm guessing not - I did unplug everything I could think of (HD, floppy, fan/speaker - and RAM and ROM why not...) but that didn't affect anything.
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Sometimes the clicking is hard to hear. I have had to put my ear right against some units just to hear it faintly. Also a word of caution: when you open these things, the line filter capacitor remains charged with lethal voltages. You want to carefully (with one hand in your pocket) remove the board and short the two large contacts near the middle of the board with a screwdriver. I have done this often, and sometimes it produces a spark, but that confirms the short was successful. I would touch the leads with a screwdriver a few times to make sure. If you wait half an hour, most of the voltage should have drained and you shouldn't have a problem, but I still short it to be safe.
It sounds similar to CRT caps discharge but I don't see what you mean on the lobo, so I assume you must mean the PSU? (otherwise after the last 10 minutes I'm very lucky to be alive lol).
The one working thing (honestly I'm more glad I got the monitor than the LC - I threw one out about 15 years ago... regretted that until yesterday):
Sorry for the blur and perennial rotation. The closeup of the board should show what I mean about the gunk or whatever it is.
Actually... should I clean the board first? That isn't to say I won't clean it anyway, but is it possible that 1) a cleaning and(/or?) recap will have some impact; 2) can I turn the power supply on disconnected from the mobo? I've asked this about my Compaq, but can I see if it works at all? Can't clicking also be a symptom of mobo failure ('we' have talked about this re: the PB 3400c - obviously very different architecture though)?
The one working thing (honestly I'm more glad I got the monitor than the LC - I threw one out about 15 years ago... regretted that until yesterday):
Sorry for the blur and perennial rotation. The closeup of the board should show what I mean about the gunk or whatever it is.
Actually... should I clean the board first? That isn't to say I won't clean it anyway, but is it possible that 1) a cleaning and(/or?) recap will have some impact; 2) can I turn the power supply on disconnected from the mobo? I've asked this about my Compaq, but can I see if it works at all? Can't clicking also be a symptom of mobo failure ('we' have talked about this re: the PB 3400c - obviously very different architecture though)?
I am talking about the PSU as far as recapping and discharging capacitors. On an LC you need the PSU and LB recapped. And no, the PSU cannot, as far as I am aware, be operated outside of the LC.
Pretty good get on the monitor, I think. The HD didn't mount automatically which I've never seen, but did with SCSIProbe. It wouldn't boot the machine and I'm not set up for a SCSI-to-SCSI transfer right now but I will save the contents - probably via Kanga.
Yes, you can, as far as i can remember you should find two black wires for ground (on the left) rest are + 5v / +12v / -5vthe PSU cannot, as far as I am aware, be operated outside of the LC.
Never tried myself, but probably a way to use a modern PSU (PC one) just for a test.
The floppy drive has no door on the LC (except if it was change for the manual inject type)otherwise the floppy drive is missing its door.
I wasn't either, but are easy to work at and useful to make floppy discs copies...I didn't really expect to find it and I've never been a huge fan of LCs
You probably can clean the board with a contact cleaner first.
Thanks very much. I'll look into the PSU thing, because I have to test another PSU as well. I'll definitely clean the board, but I increasingly suspect that the PSU failed very recently and that the LC's owner was knowledgeable enough to know that. So I suspect as old and dirty as the board is that the PSU is probably the operative problem.
Any thoughts...? PC Creations PCC-5-10L. I tried to take a photo of the connector (there's no other interface that I can see) because it looks like some sort of disk controller - 14-pins. Dated July 8, 1985. PC Creations was a Detroit company started in 1985 so this was likely a flagship product. However, I have no idea what it's for. I also found a TRS-80 Deluxe Joystick, which I will try to figure out if I can use somewhere.
Lol... it's a hot tub control board... maybe I should send that guy a message. Maybe my model's compatible with his. http://www.rhtubs.com/cgi-bin/bbs/config3.pl?md=read;id=22784
Can I use my Apple RGB Monitor on my PM 7100? Wiki says it was made for the IIgs (which I had not known) but could be used on Mac II. Obviously I can use it on the PM 7100 in the sense that it displays properly. Is it going to do any harm to the machine/monitor (or just, for instance, unnecessarily - as far as the machine is concerned - limit the resolution/colors)?
It'll work fine, the 15-pin Apple monitors are all compatible with what Apple shipped. A few exceptions would probably be something like a Radius GS/C(M) cards which are fixed res 1152x882, something a 7100 wouldn't have.
Cool. Thank you. Not that I'm doing a lot of Photoshopping (on these machines) but I'll probably return the monitor to the LC if I ever fix it. 512x384 in 256 colors seems a little underpowered for the Power Mac. Does the monitor automatically degauss when it turns on (it's been a long time, sorry lol)?
The AppleColor RGB monitor for the IIgs (Model A2M6014) will not work on a Macintosh.
Gotcha, and this is M1296 (?).
I 'broke' this in 2010; turned out it just required a BIOS update that has to be done blind because for some reason the screen spontaneously stops working (prior to the update). Anyway, this satisfies my interest in an ultra-low power HackNetbook and trying to run OS X on Atom. However, it won't work with Mavericks because it's got 512mb on the board but will only accept 1gb otherwise (so it currently has 1.5gb). I'm working on installing Lion at the moment.
I had several of those Aspire One netbooks at one time in the past. The last one was pink (I'm secure in my manhood
) that I gave to my niece. They weren't bad but memory capacity definitely was not one of their strong points. That and having to disassemble it to the chassis and remove the motherboard to get to the hard drive or memory slot.
) that I gave to my niece. They weren't bad but memory capacity definitely was not one of their strong points. That and having to disassemble it to the chassis and remove the motherboard to get to the hard drive or memory slot.
I bought mine in Cairo in 2010. I walked into a 'computer mall' and basically went to every store until I found the cheapest netbook. The RAM is a real problem, though. But the BIOS is even worse. I can't get any version of Lion or ML to load so far; so I'm trying SL again (which hasn't booted properly yet). In the process, I somehow corrupted my main Mavericks partition on my desktop so I had to reinstall that this afternoon and that (again) caused a Boot0 problem that I have been trying to fix since then. I just finished reinstalling Mavericks to my E6410 (because I accidentally wiped its EFI partition instead of mount_hfs'ing it lol (that's on me)). So now we'll see if copying and pasting works on the desktop because I clearly screwed up the EFI boot option in the installer. Then hopefully SL will simultaneously finish and work on the AOA150. Nope to both lol. I wonder if I could have just used myHack on the desktop.
I have a very fast SD card in there so it should be pretty low-power too.
I have a very fast SD card in there so it should be pretty low-power too.
Hey Quinterro, you didn't use any of the AOA150's as hack books did you?
This was difficult - this is 10.6.6. Quick question though, I have an Airport of some sort possibly Extreme. It has three connectors for antennae but it does not recognize at all. I'll get another Airport but I'm just curious why that might be.
Mine ran XP or Linux. Never tried OS X on them.
It's probably based on an Atheros wireless chip. For Mac OS X, you want one based on a Broadcom chip. (The exact opposite advice of what'd you get if you were going to run Linux.This was difficult - this is 10.6.6. Quick question though, I have an Airport of some sort possibly Extreme. It has three connectors for antennae but it does not recognize at all. I'll get another Airport but I'm just curious why that might be.
I'm kind of not surprised that you can only run SL. Is that generation of Atom even 64-bit compatible? (If not, then it rules out Lion.) And I suspect that you have something like GMA945 or GMA950 graphics which aren't supported after Lion, anyway.
If you can't tell... I did once try to run SL on an AspireOne D250 (a pink one at that), but got fed up with the compromises.
The original wifi card was an incompatible Atheros. I may not have explained myself properly.
I replaced the Atheros card with an Airport Extreme card that has three connectors for three wires (does that mean it's b/g/n? I don't know much about the hardware standards). That wifi card (a Macbook Airport Extreme) worked fine in my T61 with I think 10.7. It doesn't currently recognize on the AOA150.
However, at the moment, SL will only boot with "-f" which I know has a weird impact on network stuff (for instance my desktop can only use its ethernet card booting via rebuilding the kernel cache). So it may be that when booting with "-f", this machine or SL or both have trouble recognizing the Airport Extreme. It doesn't really matter I bought another Airport card (with 2 connectors) for $3.50.
Quinterro mine originally ran XP also. I honestly only used it for work and then when the BIOS problem first surfaced I put it away until I salvaged it for parts probably a year or two ago (which is why the palmrest is broken).
What's even weirder - and I truly hope I took the battery out without realizing and hence cut the power accidentally - is that machine 'broke' again last night and I had to flash the BIOS again. But I had previously flashed the BIOS to 3310 (but it had reverted to pre-3309). It has no CMOS battery at the moment but that's still really weird.
I replaced the Atheros card with an Airport Extreme card that has three connectors for three wires (does that mean it's b/g/n? I don't know much about the hardware standards). That wifi card (a Macbook Airport Extreme) worked fine in my T61 with I think 10.7. It doesn't currently recognize on the AOA150.
However, at the moment, SL will only boot with "-f" which I know has a weird impact on network stuff (for instance my desktop can only use its ethernet card booting via rebuilding the kernel cache). So it may be that when booting with "-f", this machine or SL or both have trouble recognizing the Airport Extreme. It doesn't really matter I bought another Airport card (with 2 connectors) for $3.50.
Quinterro mine originally ran XP also. I honestly only used it for work and then when the BIOS problem first surfaced I put it away until I salvaged it for parts probably a year or two ago (which is why the palmrest is broken).
What's even weirder - and I truly hope I took the battery out without realizing and hence cut the power accidentally - is that machine 'broke' again last night and I had to flash the BIOS again. But I had previously flashed the BIOS to 3310 (but it had reverted to pre-3309). It has no CMOS battery at the moment but that's still really weird.