Thread
Yellow Be gone!
How did that work out? I didnt think the blacklight had the correct wavelength. I always thought you needed narrowband UV-B like in tanning beds, etc.i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.
i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.
i bought all the BL stuff that had,
it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours
i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.
and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.
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honestly... i am thinking you can use use heat... From what i understand the peroxide needs to be activated... that is why
it does nothing when you just smear it on. and Heat and UV light both activate peroxide... what has to happen is the peroxide has to bind to the
bromide, and when that happens the yellow is be gone.
Once you get the yellow be gone, you can protect your plastic with silicone oil. if you coat your de-yellowed plastic with Armorall or Pledge.
it will be protected, the reason the yellow stains on the plastic is because the bromide reacts with the oxygen in the air. and those products will keep that from happening... so if you have a mac that is not yellow, Protect it with a silicone oil product.
this is really not my thing, just so you guys know. i am only doing this because one of my customers offered me a Turbo 040 @40mhz for my Iici if i De-Yellow his SE/30.
so i figured if i am going through all the trouble i will do it right... I am a turbo kind of guy and i want to accerlaterate this process as fast as possible
i am thinking i am going to use heat and BL, next.
i ran out of time... I need to pick up some saran wrap, some rubber gloves and 2 extra wide tubs, because at the office there is just a bathroom sink and nothing else for me to wash bigger things like these plastics
by the time i got all the BL set up, i had already applied the 40 developer, and it had started to dry.
but i could tell just front he UV from the normal lights in my office after 3 hours it was removing all the yellow from one side of the thing.
so i ran out of time last night, i will have to restart the process tonight hopefully if i get time,
so far the LC-III is pretty screwed up looking as its streaked all to hell.
the product had already partially dried up, after i put it under the BL.
this guys uses BL, seemed like he had great results with this apple iie.
it does nothing when you just smear it on. and Heat and UV light both activate peroxide... what has to happen is the peroxide has to bind to the
bromide, and when that happens the yellow is be gone.
Once you get the yellow be gone, you can protect your plastic with silicone oil. if you coat your de-yellowed plastic with Armorall or Pledge.
it will be protected, the reason the yellow stains on the plastic is because the bromide reacts with the oxygen in the air. and those products will keep that from happening... so if you have a mac that is not yellow, Protect it with a silicone oil product.
this is really not my thing, just so you guys know. i am only doing this because one of my customers offered me a Turbo 040 @40mhz for my Iici if i De-Yellow his SE/30.
so i figured if i am going through all the trouble i will do it right... I am a turbo kind of guy and i want to accerlaterate this process as fast as possible
i am thinking i am going to use heat and BL, next.
i ran out of time... I need to pick up some saran wrap, some rubber gloves and 2 extra wide tubs, because at the office there is just a bathroom sink and nothing else for me to wash bigger things like these plastics
by the time i got all the BL set up, i had already applied the 40 developer, and it had started to dry.
but i could tell just front he UV from the normal lights in my office after 3 hours it was removing all the yellow from one side of the thing.
so i ran out of time last night, i will have to restart the process tonight hopefully if i get time,
so far the LC-III is pretty screwed up looking as its streaked all to hell.
the product had already partially dried up, after i put it under the BL.
this guys uses BL, seemed like he had great results with this apple iie.
the pedestal is a mini dell, i got a whole stack of them for free... they all need caps 
bought some more stuff, the BBQ brush gets it on nice.
used gloves this time… and bought some plastic wrap.
i guess ill check tomorrow and see what she does...
-- btw using the bbq brush and a dish is a much better way to apply this slop.
ok so took these at 3:00am about 4 hours later, and i tell you what..
it looks completely de-yellowed to me.
the sides are still a slight but of yellow so i will reposition the the other lights
but looks like the saran wrap was the ticket!
Whats funny, is the blacklight really brings out where the monitor used to sit. Almost as if the plastic got embedded with something else as well...
and bam… Yellow BE Gone!
i just might have accidentally found a chemical solution that removes yellow instantlly but I don't want to say too much about it before we do some more testing… but its slightly exciting.
MJ, hey… do you have a mac that you don't care about that is yellow
can you mix 50/50 91%IPA / acetone , then spray, then kind of Buff wipe off with a cotton terry cloth and tell me if it works… if it doesn't , try 40% IPA and 60% acetone. just for shits and giggles.
what ever you do, do not use more then 60% acetone, i'm just sayin
i just might have accidentally found a chemical solution that removes yellow instantlly but I don't want to say too much about it before we do some more testing… but its slightly exciting.
MJ, hey… do you have a mac that you don't care about that is yellow
can you mix 50/50 91%IPA / acetone , then spray, then kind of Buff wipe off with a cotton terry cloth and tell me if it works… if it doesn't , try 40% IPA and 60% acetone. just for shits and giggles.
what ever you do, do not use more then 60% acetone, i'm just sayin
there is a point of diminishing returns, and that point is anywhere between 4 hours and 6 hours, as i think the the solution wears out. and you defintally want to be very generous with the jelly substance. slather on liberal ammounts. maybe even up to 2-3 MM thick or around 1/8th of an inch, or at atleast more more then 1/16th.
these cases were pretty much identical
its a lot of work…
I love how Uni has a Dell under the LC lid to hold it up in the black light..... That's about the only use for it!
Yeah i hear ya… its caps look like volcanos…. its dead…
but its a 3 ghz Dual Core PentumD…. haha the copper heatsink is almost a pound its self.
but its a 3 ghz Dual Core PentumD…. haha the copper heatsink is almost a pound its self.
I have a soft spot for PentiumD's (used an off the shelf eMachines tower powered by one as my main computer for awhile before I got the Mac Pro, and it worked decently, and was relatively fast under XP and even Mac OS X Tiger (it was my first Hackintosh experience, and the chipset happened to be almost identical to the MacBooks and MacMinis of the time, which made it super easy)), so if you find you don't need/want that particular CPU, I'd take it (and its heatsink) from you.
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
thanks its still not where i think it should be yet
I have a bunch of the Dell 520's or 620's.. something like that model number at my work... Had to recap almost all of them.. They were during the time of the bad cap run!!!! They looked like volcano's too.. I have always noticed even in the iMac all in ones it's the Rubycon caps that burst...
I also had to do some caps on some HP DL360 G5 servers... unreal.. they shouldn't be failing!! At least not this early! Multiple DL360's.. not just one!
I think I had some caps fail on my monitor a year back. It took 6+ months before I managed to set aside money to buy a replacement power board that had the capacitors fail. (the power board was only like $15 or so, but I had other priorities at the time.)
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself. Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)
It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself.
Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
Well the caps weren't "bad" in the traditional sense as in a manufacturing/physical defect. They were actually based on a stolen and incomplete electrolyte formula that was obtained via industrial espionage, which backfired since it was flawed. The companies that used the stolen formula knowingly, or unknowingly in a few cases, made caps that would blow after a short time.
and still are blowing today.
...And will probably continue to blow for years to come!
c
c
hopefully this turns out decently. just got my yellow be gone station put back together from the office move.
Those postal boxes are so handy for so many different things...
Would the light from a UV eraser work well for small parts?
UV eeprom eraser light is just UV-C, or better known as germicidal lamps.
On ebay they sell the regular compact fluorescent style germicidal lamps.
On ebay they sell the regular compact fluorescent style germicidal lamps.
man looks like the boot is going to need more time to match the face.
This is with the 40V or your "secret sauce"?
its the off brand 40
, but i don't know i think its gotten weak. its been away from the UV but not totally out of the sunlight..
, but i don't know i think its gotten weak. its been away from the UV but not totally out of the sunlight..
Speaking of germicidal... Nice toilet brush