Thread
AppleFile
Shag rulz! ;D
So does you AppleFile, I love your hack! :approve:
So does you AppleFile, I love your hack! :approve:
I've been waiting to see how nice this ended up looking in the end. The thread delivers! Very nice, CelGen! How did the texturing end up working?
When the paint dried after brushing it on it seemed to feel somewhat similar so I stuck with that. You can't also see a difference unless you look closely.
I said I would deliver a passable product and I have so far. I hope to get this finishe before the summer rolls around.
Speaking of passable, I'm on the fence on which logo looks better.
OR...
I said I would deliver a passable product and I have so far. I hope to get this finishe before the summer rolls around.
Speaking of passable, I'm on the fence on which logo looks better.
OR...
At first i was meh, but now i like it. Well done, mate, well done indeed. |)
I prefer the first logo. Looks cleaner to me. Apropos clean, you have to clean the Apple logos. In fact, you need to clean everything!
I prefer the first logo. Looks cleaner to me. Apropos clean, you have to clean the Apple logos. In fact, you need to clean everything!
Seriously cool. 
Where will the logos go?
Where will the logos go?
I hope the logo's heading the backside on a product panel with the serial #00001. Looking at the stack pic, I can't imagine putting a logo on the front, the stacked rainbows on the right side are perfection in terms of embellishment. As proud of such a hack as I'd be, I'd stick to the .TXT free simplicity of the front bezel of its progenitor.
BTW, the simplicity of the top version appeals to me, not to mention the fact that it's far more suitable for cutting in vinyl.
BTW, the simplicity of the top version appeals to me, not to mention the fact that it's far more suitable for cutting in vinyl.
Very nice work.
Personally, I'm a fan of the second logo. Would the second part be infilled white, or just outlined over the beige backdrop?
Personally, I'm a fan of the second logo. Would the second part be infilled white, or just outlined over the beige backdrop?
Very nice. I love the carpet too, adds to the "retro" look.
Also, I prefer the second logo, since its the same style as what Apple used for the DuoDisk logo.
Also, I prefer the second logo, since its the same style as what Apple used for the DuoDisk logo.
The logo is to go just on a nice photogrpah or two of the drive. I can't properly print it on the back of the drive where DuoDisk currently sits because it's all part of one larger badge.
Thje white outlined one is taking refernce from the FileWare logo. The whole thign is actually traced because I don't think there is an actual font for the old Apple typeset.
Also, it took me forever to find that bloody carpet.
Thje white outlined one is taking refernce from the FileWare logo. The whole thign is actually traced because I don't think there is an actual font for the old Apple typeset.
Also, it took me forever to find that bloody carpet.
The rug ties the room together.
How about this:
Edit: Ooo! Good catch! Fixed the i.
Edit: Ooo! Good catch! Fixed the i.
I'm working on some product packaging with some vintage logos on it. I just happened to have the font. Specifically, it's Motter Tektura Cyrillic. It's a little more bold than the normal Motter Tektura.
Apple's was still custom, though, because it had a few custom characters (the S, ], [, and / are different.) I had to make a new S.
Apple's was still custom, though, because it had a few custom characters (the S, ], [, and / are different.) I had to make a new S.
Excellent.
Motter Tektura Cyrillic wouldn't happen to be available online from a reputable source would it?
Motter Tektura Cyrillic wouldn't happen to be available online from a reputable source would it?
It's on the numerous Free Font websites, as much as you can trust them.
The ProFile's badge looks like olePigeon's rendering. So if you'd like it to be in line with the rest of Apple's products, I'd go with that.
Did you ever get special files for the LED hole, or did you find something else?
Yeah, I bought the files to help square it out. It's still a little ragged but form the photos it's now hard to notice.
I noticed that after looking at a few of the fonts and realized "say! these arenn't the same!" Thanks for noting the Cyrillic part. Thanks for the awesome custom badge. I guess at the very least now I can have a small custom sticker made but it won't feel the same as a proper stamped aluminum badge but that's for someone else to try if they would like to make their own Applefile. I like the Apple-only front.
to make your searching safer, I grabbed it here.
CelGen, You could get someone to 3d print the badge,
or carve a rubber mold, and fill with resin?
or carve a rubber mold, and fill with resin?
Wouldn't look right. If you look at Apple peripherals of the time, if it had rounded edges (ProFile, Unifile, and the Apple III) it had the apple logo and our badge on the left side.
Around the time of the IIe it changed. If you look at the IIe platinum or either the monochrome or color monitors the apple logo is on the right and if you look at the DuoDisk you had that groove and everything had nice hard edges. If anything my lack of a platinum IIe breaks the uniformity on my end but I think the badge would even more break the theme going on with the peripherals where there's no badges at all except the apple logo on the right.
Around the time of the IIe it changed. If you look at the IIe platinum or either the monochrome or color monitors the apple logo is on the right and if you look at the DuoDisk you had that groove and everything had nice hard edges. If anything my lack of a platinum IIe breaks the uniformity on my end but I think the badge would even more break the theme going on with the peripherals where there's no badges at all except the apple logo on the right.
Yeah I wouldn't put anything on the front. It matches the stack perfectly as is. The text of that logo should go on the back where the duodisk text is if you we're going to put it on the physical device at all.
There's probably a way to print on an aluminum plate, but I bet it'd be the most expensive part of the whole build.
There's probably a way to print on an aluminum plate, but I bet it'd be the most expensive part of the whole build.
Adding SCSI was tedious. I had to manually crimp the 50 to 25 pin adapter. Pin 1 is ground and attaches to the standoff nuts.
The DB25 port fits perfectly where the old connector went. The only change is I cut up a parallel port bulkhead from a a PC and press fit it in with epoxy.
Here's a mock-up of the internals. This is about what the final mounting places will be.
Power and the on/off switch can't go under the SCSI port because of the design of the back so I decided it would be best to have it on the other side of the case and route it over to the PSU. Here's what the back of the AppleFile now looks like:
Still need to find out how to wipe off that wax marker and other bits of grime. I tried rubbing alcohol but all that did was wipe off the paint that I was not told was water soluble. xx(
The DB25 port fits perfectly where the old connector went. The only change is I cut up a parallel port bulkhead from a a PC and press fit it in with epoxy.
Here's a mock-up of the internals. This is about what the final mounting places will be.
Power and the on/off switch can't go under the SCSI port because of the design of the back so I decided it would be best to have it on the other side of the case and route it over to the PSU. Here's what the back of the AppleFile now looks like:
Still need to find out how to wipe off that wax marker and other bits of grime. I tried rubbing alcohol but all that did was wipe off the paint that I was not told was water soluble. xx(
Alcohol isn't water, it's a great solvent for breaking down acrylic/latex paints, even Krylon oil based spray paint.
I'm impressed by this!
IIRC, the official Apple name for the font used pre-Mac was Cupertino. Came on at least System 6.0.8, and probably on 7.x as well.
Re: the wax markings, gotta love Shop 'n Save for doing that. Still have to clean the other DuoDisk and some other items that happen to have those markings on them.
Anyway, good deal.
-J
Re: the wax markings, gotta love Shop 'n Save for doing that. Still have to clean the other DuoDisk and some other items that happen to have those markings on them.
Anyway, good deal.
-J
Try Simple Green. I use that often. Just put some where the grease pen is, let it sit for a few minutes, then try wiping it off.
By the way, is that a 1/2 hight drive?
By the way, is that a 1/2 hight drive?
Half height Seagate ST-251N.
Same awesome 40mb MFM disk but with a SCSI interface.
Same awesome 40mb MFM disk but with a SCSI interface.
With the power supply and the HDD in there, it looks like it was made for it. Pretty freakin' awesome.
Finally completed mounting everything inside. Unit looks good, sounds good and now for burn-in.
Already I'm running into troubles.
Cabling wise my 50 pin do D-sub 25 adapter is good with no breaks. It was wired from this daigram:
However even with a terminator fitted between the internal cable and the drive no system can detect it.
I pulled the harness out of a Sun 411 enclosure and tried that to ensure it was the cable. Sure enough even without a terminator I had computers detecting it. :?:
Second problem is a bit more fatal. The drive either needs a LLF pretty badly or the HDA has failed. So the moment you poke at it it starts to constantly reseek with the odd moment it actually reads or writes.
Edited: I managed to format the drive. Windows was being cranky so I pulled out the Mainstreet and tried it instead. It formatted and mounted after selecting the low-level format option. After I do another format with HD SC setup (Unlike Drive Setup, HD SC setup will fail a drive at even the slightest hint of a problem) I'll throw Snooper's looped disk testing at it and see what happens in a few hours.
Okay, so back to problem #1 again. The cable.
electricially it's intact but something isn't getting across. Any trimmed ground lines seen are still getting grounded at the drive. There's at least four ground lines that are linked directly from the host system to the drive. Pin 1 is shield ground for the connector. The only difference between the cable I made that does not work and the Sun cable is that does work is that the Sun cable has all the lines cut up and fed through a toroidal ring and indead of a D-sub 25 connector it has an HD50 connector. The internal cabling is also about three inches shorter.
If I remove my cable from the bulkhead and try to rest it in a manner that it's far from the AC line and the power supply I don't have any change.
Already I'm running into troubles.
Cabling wise my 50 pin do D-sub 25 adapter is good with no breaks. It was wired from this daigram:
However even with a terminator fitted between the internal cable and the drive no system can detect it.
I pulled the harness out of a Sun 411 enclosure and tried that to ensure it was the cable. Sure enough even without a terminator I had computers detecting it. :?:
Second problem is a bit more fatal. The drive either needs a LLF pretty badly or the HDA has failed. So the moment you poke at it it starts to constantly reseek with the odd moment it actually reads or writes.
Edited: I managed to format the drive. Windows was being cranky so I pulled out the Mainstreet and tried it instead. It formatted and mounted after selecting the low-level format option. After I do another format with HD SC setup (Unlike Drive Setup, HD SC setup will fail a drive at even the slightest hint of a problem) I'll throw Snooper's looped disk testing at it and see what happens in a few hours.
Okay, so back to problem #1 again. The cable.
electricially it's intact but something isn't getting across. Any trimmed ground lines seen are still getting grounded at the drive. There's at least four ground lines that are linked directly from the host system to the drive. Pin 1 is shield ground for the connector. The only difference between the cable I made that does not work and the Sun cable is that does work is that the Sun cable has all the lines cut up and fed through a toroidal ring and indead of a D-sub 25 connector it has an HD50 connector. The internal cabling is also about three inches shorter.
If I remove my cable from the bulkhead and try to rest it in a manner that it's far from the AC line and the power supply I don't have any change.