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Iicx Power Supply Clicks, no go

Iicx Power Supply Clicks, no go Hardware 41 posts Jan 18, 2014 — Feb 3, 2014
I honestly think a motherboard recap might help your IIcx power up correctly with its own power supply too. I've seen all kinds of weird behavior seemingly blamable on the power supply that was really caused by leaky caps on the motherboard screwing with the soft power circuit. I know on the IIci several of the electrolytics that leak are right over by the power button circuitry. I bet the IIcx is the same way. By hooking up an SE power supply you're probably bypassing that part of the motherboard's circuit...

Of course, on the other hand, maybe the power supply really is just bad. Who knows...

I honestly think a motherboard recap might help your IIcx power up correctly with its own power supply too. I've seen all kinds of weird behavior seemingly blamable on the power supply that was really caused by leaky caps on the motherboard screwing with the soft power circuit. I know on the IIci several of the electrolytics that leak are right over by the power button circuitry. I bet the IIcx is the same way. By hooking up an SE power supply you're probably bypassing that part of the motherboard's circuit...
Of course, on the other hand, maybe the power supply really is just bad. Who knows...
Thats a thought too. I am going to talk to uni about a re-cap of the mobo. I will get that out of the way before I beat myself up on this power supply issue and find out it was indeed the mobo.

If it's a prototype, you'd probably want it to be as stock as possible (including the caps).

So perhaps replace the caps with the same type?

Nonetheless, good find!!

c

If it's a prototype, you'd probably want it to be as stock as possible (including the caps).
So perhaps replace the caps with the same type?

Nonetheless, good find!!

c

Ya, I am. Already talked to uni about them. In fact, already paid just need to ship it out. He said they new small aluminum cans are sealed better, etc. Once i get it working I will post a conquest thread.

Sealed better? umm nope I dont think so.

I have 2006 era DLP TVs that the caps all leaked/dried out. SMD Lytics are just plain bad.

I was specifically referring to only the caps i use, panasonic.

i said these caps are going to be better then what is coming off.

Over all the composition of the seal and electrolyte is better.

Back in the late 80's early 90's SMT was cutting edge.

I'd say we've learned a few things over the years.

Unless your company is CAPXON. or any other company that is making caps with a stolen formula.

True... Not sure about panasonic SMD caps. I know their standard radial caps are ok.

But its hard to say these days, as I said before I had a Mits DLP fail from bad SMD caps, and it was made in 2006ish. Its possible they used junk ;-)

oh yeah :-) companies always trying to save a Penny or 2 :)

by the way i was looking at this SE/30 you did..

pretty awesome job dude!!!

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17885

I like how you were able to piece back together his audio circuit.

I've never seen that kind of damage, yet… lol.

Trust me, you dont want to see that kind of damage.

This is what I have to deal with daily at work:

[attachment=0]20131218_162706.jpg[/attachment]

Wouldnt be so bad if it was once in awhile. But its every single day, and just about every time. lol so it tends to get old after awhile. but I have mastered the technique. If its that bad, you have to dremel out ALL of that circuit board in the charred area, because the carbonized soot is conductive. Lay a new epoxy base, and re-route the damaged circuits with patch wires. Of course, that only works if you have some knowledge of the circuit.

Trust me, you dont want to see that kind of damage.
This is what I have to deal with daily at work:

[attachment=0]20131218_162706.jpg[/attachment]

Wouldnt be so bad if it was once in awhile. But its every single day, and just about every time. lol so it tends to get old after awhile. but I have mastered the technique. If its that bad, you have to dremel out ALL of that circuit board in the charred area, because the carbonized soot is conductive. Lay a new epoxy base, and re-route the damaged circuits with patch wires. Of course, that only works if you have some knowledge of the circuit.

My car caught fire, exploded, fell over and sank into a swamp. Wanna give it a go? :o)

Not funny.....

mp.ls