Thread
I may be picking one up locally for $50, no drives just the system and power cord. If I go through with it would I be getting ripped off? I do have the drive for my IIc+, if it might work with it....
Waiting to hear back from the seller.
Waiting to hear back from the seller.
To authorize Cubase VST/32 5.1. I have to run "Cubase VST/32 5.1 Authorizer". But I have audio waveforms redraw problems.
I have to run "Cubase VST/32 5.1 Authorizer" several times. Sometimes up to 20 or 30 times to audio waveforms redraw in Cubase work fine.
Sometimes I can't even achieve.
It only happens to me? or is a usually problem? what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks.
I have to run "Cubase VST/32 5.1 Authorizer" several times. Sometimes up to 20 or 30 times to audio waveforms redraw in Cubase work fine.
Sometimes I can't even achieve.
It only happens to me? or is a usually problem? what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks.
As long as it is operational and in nice condition, it seems like a good deal. I was able to sell broken ones (ie. PSU needed re-capping) for $100 each, or working for $200+.
Hopefully it is one of the earlier ones, before the Enhanced and Platinum.
Hopefully it is one of the earlier ones, before the Enhanced and Platinum.
I'm sure it depends critically on where you are. $50 for just a system unit honesty sounds a little steep to me unless it's in gonzo good shape. Does it have any interface cards in it? Remember, a IIe doesn't have a disk controller, serial port, nuttin', without adding cards.
hey guys how are you;)
i am looking for some help. have either of you got a functioning version of cubase VST/32??
im having lots of problems..
cubase 5.0 vst/32 i can install and launch it appears to work fine and then as im playing the main timeline in arranage view the sound just stops working usually sometime during the first minute or after the first few plays..sometimes lasts a few minutes before stopping but always stops working
my question is for mactron.. do u have your copy working?
I had the same problem. Try the 5.1 r1 version. It's avaliable on the Steinberg FTP site: ftp.steinberg.net.
Anyway mi main problems with Cubase VST 5 ended when I achieved an instalation disc.
I had the same problem. Try the 5.1 r1 version. It's avaliable on the Steinberg FTP site: ftp.steinberg.net.
Anyway mi main problems with Cubase VST 5 ended when I achieved an instalation disc.
I have downloaded that! i have two copies...
1 x cubase VST
1 x cubase VST/32
i ignored the 3rd option of Cubase Score because im not too familiar with what cubase score is...
But yes when i tried to install, it asks for a cd.... and i didnt get any further than that!
It does have expansion cards installed, looks like two floppy controllers and a serial or printer card. It isn't a platinum, I don't think, color doesn't seem right to be a platinum, even with the slight yellowing that appears in the pictures, and it does not have the keypad to the right either.
I know it is a holiday weekend and all but I'm getting anxious for a response from him!
I know it is a holiday weekend and all but I'm getting anxious for a response from him!
i am running nuendo v1.52 right now and it works amazing but im having this strange problem of the keyboard ceasing to function as im using the app.. if i unplug + replug it works again.. but its quite annoying and im trying to track down the reason for it because it doesnt seem to happen to me unless nuendo v1.52 is running.. nevertheless this n1.52 is working whereas the vst/32 app i have, i have no keyboard problems but like i said the audio just ceases to function, it just stops.. and then the only thing to fix it is to restart and then it just does it again -- rendering the app useless for my purposes obviously ;(
If it has a 10-key keypad built into the keyboard, it's Platinum. If it says "Enhanced" over the capslock light, it's an Enhanced //e. Otherwise it's a regular //e. The Enhanced and reulgare //e are both Pantone 453.
I went and picked it up last night, they guy had won it at an auction in hopes of playing around with it, but he said he had no idea how to use it or test it, and had nothing else but the power cord and a serial cord for it. He was going to ebay it but couldn't find a box big enough to ship it in.
After cleaning off some light dirt, it actually is in great condition aside from some scuffing in the center right in front of the keyboard at the edge, the "//e" part of the badge has some damage, and some light scratches here and there, but other than that it appears to be well cared for aside from three of the four rubber feet missing. It has a Rev. B board, a Super Serial Card, an I/O card, and a Disk Drive Controller card. Also has an 80 column card installed.
With the I/O card installed, it starts but does not display a prompt/cursor. Removing the card and it starts up just fine! The PROM chip on the card has some tarnished pins, but after cleaning them up it still refuses to boot properly with the card installed.
The date sticker on the power supply is 8629, and the keyboard and logic board dates seem to match up. Not sure about how to match up ROM chips to this, to see how original this is, but I will post pictures which might give some leads.
After cleaning off some light dirt, it actually is in great condition aside from some scuffing in the center right in front of the keyboard at the edge, the "//e" part of the badge has some damage, and some light scratches here and there, but other than that it appears to be well cared for aside from three of the four rubber feet missing. It has a Rev. B board, a Super Serial Card, an I/O card, and a Disk Drive Controller card. Also has an 80 column card installed.
With the I/O card installed, it starts but does not display a prompt/cursor. Removing the card and it starts up just fine! The PROM chip on the card has some tarnished pins, but after cleaning them up it still refuses to boot properly with the card installed.
The date sticker on the power supply is 8629, and the keyboard and logic board dates seem to match up. Not sure about how to match up ROM chips to this, to see how original this is, but I will post pictures which might give some leads.
$50 is fair for a IIe and even for a IIc. They are both pretty common machines. Anyone who asks much more than that is banking on the Applemania that swept the hobby after Steve Jobs died to make a killing on common as dirt hardware from people who don't know any better.
hi - I have the install cd but my mac is reading the .toast file as a pc file, and my copy of Toast doesnt see it at all. How do I burn the image to a cd? sorry to be such a noob. Thanks!
i think u can rename the file to .iso and burn it its a cd image made by toast.. u should use toast to burn it! if u r using a current imac or mac with toast 8 9 10 11 u can just drag the file to window and it should burn it.. or u can mount it first and then burn it. theres many ways to do it
stormo why are u posting in this thread??
can u explain in detail what it is that u did
how u installed? etc
i guess we should post a link to the 5.1r1 rev on the steinberg site or even host it ourselves
i need to have diehard write a guide on this because he told me how to do it and i forget now
so mactron or diehard will have to answer you unless i get a chance to figure it out on my own
i do know that you arent supposed to use any "authorizer" i may just delete this thread to avoid confusion
please make a new thread next time;)
http://macos9lives.com/smforum/index.php?topic=45.msg149#msg149
ive updated the info on the download page i hope that diehard wil have time to go over it and edit
can u explain in detail what it is that u did
how u installed? etc
i guess we should post a link to the 5.1r1 rev on the steinberg site or even host it ourselves
i need to have diehard write a guide on this because he told me how to do it and i forget now

so mactron or diehard will have to answer you unless i get a chance to figure it out on my own
i do know that you arent supposed to use any "authorizer" i may just delete this thread to avoid confusion
please make a new thread next time;)
http://macos9lives.com/smforum/index.php?topic=45.msg149#msg149
ive updated the info on the download page i hope that diehard wil have time to go over it and edit
Thank you Quadraman, that gives me some peace of mind with my decision to go through with the deal!
Here are some pictures of it!
First the unit after I cleaned it up. It didn't need much, just a good wipe down with some light detergent. (yes, the backslash under the delete key is on sideways here):
I pulled off every key and wiped them down real good, then took a q-tip and went through and cleaned out/dusted off the keyboard assembly.
This is the worst of the damage, the scuffing at the edge in front of the keyboard. I had to adjust the photo in photoshop to get the lighting right to show it, the pictures were taken with the phone camera.
And here is the damage to the case badge. Not horrible, but it is noticeable when looking at it:
I'm assuming this is pretty typical, of a neglected //e, to have this much dust and dirt inside the unit:
I gave the logic board a bath of water with a toothbrush scrub and rinse with 91% IPA, it cleaned up real good!
This I/O card is the one that prevents the //e from booting. When installed, it just hangs, displaying "Apple //e" and goes no further. What sucks, is this is the card I need, to use my external 5.25" drive (from what I have researched). The 3.5" Disk Drive Controller Card does not affect it's operation though, but I don't have a 3.5" drive!
The Apple IC with the white sticker on it has tarnished or heat damaged pins. I cleaned them up but it didn't change anything. I might be on the hunt for a new card soon if changing the socket for that IC doesn't fix it.
And the //e booted and connected to a display for the first time in a long time!
So, any ideas on the I/O card issue?
Here are some pictures of it!
First the unit after I cleaned it up. It didn't need much, just a good wipe down with some light detergent. (yes, the backslash under the delete key is on sideways here):
I pulled off every key and wiped them down real good, then took a q-tip and went through and cleaned out/dusted off the keyboard assembly.
This is the worst of the damage, the scuffing at the edge in front of the keyboard. I had to adjust the photo in photoshop to get the lighting right to show it, the pictures were taken with the phone camera.
And here is the damage to the case badge. Not horrible, but it is noticeable when looking at it:
I'm assuming this is pretty typical, of a neglected //e, to have this much dust and dirt inside the unit:
I gave the logic board a bath of water with a toothbrush scrub and rinse with 91% IPA, it cleaned up real good!
This I/O card is the one that prevents the //e from booting. When installed, it just hangs, displaying "Apple //e" and goes no further. What sucks, is this is the card I need, to use my external 5.25" drive (from what I have researched). The 3.5" Disk Drive Controller Card does not affect it's operation though, but I don't have a 3.5" drive!
The Apple IC with the white sticker on it has tarnished or heat damaged pins. I cleaned them up but it didn't change anything. I might be on the hunt for a new card soon if changing the socket for that IC doesn't fix it.
And the //e booted and connected to a display for the first time in a long time!
So, any ideas on the I/O card issue?
running a G4 I bought in 2000 and using OS9.2. Maybe it's the extra .2 at the end? I'll check it out and see. But as I said it used to run cubase 5.1 perfectly back in the day. It's installed fine now, but the audio cuts out the third time you press play without fail, and the wave forms don't draw. It's very frustrating. I have to say I'm a little disappointed in this site: I've only sourced a couple of functioning pieces of software from it - there's issues like, passwords are incorrect (Reson 2, Lounge Lizard), some software doesn't install correctly (Roland, I can't remember, sound canvas or something)..... anyway, sorry, that's a bit off topic. I'll try updating my version of OS9 and wiping the cubase preferences and see how it goes. You're all doing amazing work!!!
You have an "enhanced" Apple IIe. 5.25 cards are pretty common, might just be easier to replace it. The chip with the sticker looks to be a ROM chip. What 3.5" interface does it have?
please make a new thread tho instead of responding to an old one if you want to ask for help!
The only person who can fully answer that outside of The Woz was my old friend Dr. Levinson, who died in '09. So unfortunate, he was a wealth of Apple II Info. So I'll need to activate some very old memory neurons here...
The chip with the White Sticker is a 512B to 1KB Flash PROM (P6), 4bits wide and the other 4 bits (for 8 bits to be used by the 6502) is on the other PROM (P4). They are sensitive to static, voltage spikes, shorts and anything that would suddenly rise the volts/amps inside the Apple and can be accidently erased. This card is the 5.25 drive card and not a 3.5, and I as wondering why is there 2 drive cards in it. If they put a 3.5 drive to that, it would have killed the card.
This is known - the 5.25 and 3.5 are virtually the same except for bigger PROMs on the board to figure out 3.5 geometry. There is an extra voltage line coming from the card to handle the little motor for Disk Ejection which is grounded on the 5.25 drive. This is why plugging in 5.25 to it would kill the card and the drive and why plugging a 3.5 into a 5.25 card would kill the card.
Incidentally, the IWM (Integrated Wozinak Machine) and the SWIM (Super Integrated Wozinak Machine) chips used in Macs are from these very same cards but with a different program in the PROM. So if you can imagine those cards on a chip, you get the IWM/SIWM.
Warning: This is also why you can not use a Apple IIGS 3.5 floppy on a Mac - both the wires and the drive board inside are different. Using it will blow out your IWM/SIWM Chip and/or the drive. You can recycle the mechanicals from a Apple IIGS 3.5 to fix a Mac 800K floppy (and visa versa) but not the electronics.
The chip with the White Sticker is a 512B to 1KB Flash PROM (P6), 4bits wide and the other 4 bits (for 8 bits to be used by the 6502) is on the other PROM (P4). They are sensitive to static, voltage spikes, shorts and anything that would suddenly rise the volts/amps inside the Apple and can be accidently erased. This card is the 5.25 drive card and not a 3.5, and I as wondering why is there 2 drive cards in it. If they put a 3.5 drive to that, it would have killed the card.
This is known - the 5.25 and 3.5 are virtually the same except for bigger PROMs on the board to figure out 3.5 geometry. There is an extra voltage line coming from the card to handle the little motor for Disk Ejection which is grounded on the 5.25 drive. This is why plugging in 5.25 to it would kill the card and the drive and why plugging a 3.5 into a 5.25 card would kill the card.
Incidentally, the IWM (Integrated Wozinak Machine) and the SWIM (Super Integrated Wozinak Machine) chips used in Macs are from these very same cards but with a different program in the PROM. So if you can imagine those cards on a chip, you get the IWM/SIWM.
Warning: This is also why you can not use a Apple IIGS 3.5 floppy on a Mac - both the wires and the drive board inside are different. Using it will blow out your IWM/SIWM Chip and/or the drive. You can recycle the mechanicals from a Apple IIGS 3.5 to fix a Mac 800K floppy (and visa versa) but not the electronics.
Hmm. I do recall using a 2gs drive with eject button on the side, on a mac without issue back in the day.
What are you talking about? The A9M0106 drive specifically intended for the IIgs is a "universal" drive and works with both Macs and Apple II's equipped with suitable controller cards, and that includes the controller built into the IIgs. I have one of these drives and use it with my 512k; it has the advantage over the Mac-styled M0131 800k external disk (sans eject button) in that it works fine as a 400k drive if you don't have the HD20 INIT installed on your boot floppy. (And therefore is itself bootable, unlike the M0131.)Warning: This is also why you can not use a Apple IIGS 3.5 floppy on a Mac - both the wires and the drive board inside are different. Using it will blow out your IWM/SIWM Chip and/or the drive. You can recycle the mechanicals from a Apple IIGS 3.5 to fix a Mac 800K floppy (and visa versa) but not the electronics.
Are you sure you're not thinking of the "Unidisk 3.5" drive, A2M2053, that was mostly sold for use with the original IIc? *That* has a magical control board inside the case that, yes, makes it incompatible with a Mac.
If the 5.25” controller doesn’t have a drive attached then your IIe will hang there forever without a prompt showing up.
I can’t really see the cards in the machine very well but the superdrive controller is longer than a disk II card so you must have a Liron card. The Liron cards only work with the 3.5” Unidisk which isn’t that common a drive.
I’ve used the IIgs 3.5” drive with the eject button on my Macs lots of times. I’ve seen schools with a whole room full of Macs with IIgs 3.5” drives that Apple sold them. Now I wouldn’t plug the 5.25” drive into any Mac.
I can’t really see the cards in the machine very well but the superdrive controller is longer than a disk II card so you must have a Liron card. The Liron cards only work with the 3.5” Unidisk which isn’t that common a drive.
I’ve used the IIgs 3.5” drive with the eject button on my Macs lots of times. I’ve seen schools with a whole room full of Macs with IIgs 3.5” drives that Apple sold them. Now I wouldn’t plug the 5.25” drive into any Mac.
Speaking of IIe's and disk controllers, I do have to relate the... amusing, sight, I witnessed last time I saw someone selling IIe's at the local Ham Radio flea market. The table was obviously being run by one of those guys that looks at the wishing-price Buy It Nows on eBay and assumes that's the actual market price; he had three or four quite badly beat up IIe's marked at something ridiculous like $75. I popped the cover on one and took a peek inside, and discovered that it had an original Disk II controller in it (the one that uses pin headers to connect the ribbon cables internally) with the stumps of two ribbon cables still attached; whoever had decommissioned/stolen/whatever the unit had either cut or *ripped* the disk drives off instead of opening the case and unplugging them. Suitably shocked and amused I popped the cover on another... and discovered the same thing.
"Go0d JorB!"
"Go0d JorB!"
I'm not pointing fingers, Gorgonops, but cut ribbon cables like this said that its a stolen Apple from somewhere. It is quite sad to see this.
And $75 for a Apple II(anything) with cut cables, to me takes off 90% of the price. I usually tell them of about the cut cables and then about the cost of "fixing the problem" and then haunt him until closing hours and see if he would let it go at 90% off! Machines like this usually wont sell unless somebody is desperate to replace an Apple for one reason or another, and usually at a haggled price.
For that reason, I separated the all 3.5 with the ejection button as for Apple IIs and 3.5 with a button for Macs in my mind. Its a limiting mindset I know, but it kept me out of trouble.
BTW - back in the day, Dr. Levinson figured out how replace a burnt out PROM with a 2704 or 2708 EPROM. He had to divide the data bus of the eprom into 2- 4 bit buses and set them in what I called a Spider adapter of wires into each of the PROM socket and then pull the addresses from one of the socket. It actually worked! He figured this out from a Chinese Clone Disk Drive card having an EPROM and not PROMs. But then after he got a hold of a several dozens of blank PROMs and figured out how to program them and lets say "He was happy as a pig in shit!"
And $75 for a Apple II(anything) with cut cables, to me takes off 90% of the price. I usually tell them of about the cut cables and then about the cost of "fixing the problem" and then haunt him until closing hours and see if he would let it go at 90% off! Machines like this usually wont sell unless somebody is desperate to replace an Apple for one reason or another, and usually at a haggled price.
You might be right on the Unidisk. To me they all looked the same and seen a few of them smoke when plugged into the wrong machine. It can be fixed if the PROMs survived - its usually a couple of 74XXX chips and solder a wire to replace a burnt out trace. I've done those for Dr. Levinson back in the 1990s.Are you sure you're not thinking of the "Unidisk 3.5" drive, A2M2053, that was mostly sold for use with the original IIc? *That* has a magical control board inside the case that, yes, makes it incompatible with a Mac.
For that reason, I separated the all 3.5 with the ejection button as for Apple IIs and 3.5 with a button for Macs in my mind. Its a limiting mindset I know, but it kept me out of trouble.
BTW - back in the day, Dr. Levinson figured out how replace a burnt out PROM with a 2704 or 2708 EPROM. He had to divide the data bus of the eprom into 2- 4 bit buses and set them in what I called a Spider adapter of wires into each of the PROM socket and then pull the addresses from one of the socket. It actually worked! He figured this out from a Chinese Clone Disk Drive card having an EPROM and not PROMs. But then after he got a hold of a several dozens of blank PROMs and figured out how to program them and lets say "He was happy as a pig in shit!"
The *one* "legit" reason I can imagine for cut cables would be if an old school were remodelled/demolished by workmen who didn't give a fig about equipment left behind in a lab and the systems were subsequently dumpster-dived but, yeah, it certainly wasn't a stamp of quality. I didn't bother with trying to negotiate anything because:
1: I've tried to talk to some of these eBay-pricers before and it's amazing how bullheaded they can be. Pretty much marked it up as a lost cause after a flabbergasting conversation with an idiot that was absolutely positive his pair of DuoDisk units that looked like they'd been chucked down a flight of stairs would *totally* sell for $200 on eBay-and-you-should-be-thrilled-I'm-only-asking-$40... each.
2: The ripped cables weren't the only thing wrong; they were *trashed*. (All but one had missing keys, and the one that didn't had a suspicious "bend" in the keyboard, etc.) Honestly they looked like they weren't so much dumpster-dived as fished out of the rubble of a controlled implosion.
Yay.
1: I've tried to talk to some of these eBay-pricers before and it's amazing how bullheaded they can be. Pretty much marked it up as a lost cause after a flabbergasting conversation with an idiot that was absolutely positive his pair of DuoDisk units that looked like they'd been chucked down a flight of stairs would *totally* sell for $200 on eBay-and-you-should-be-thrilled-I'm-only-asking-$40... each.
2: The ripped cables weren't the only thing wrong; they were *trashed*. (All but one had missing keys, and the one that didn't had a suspicious "bend" in the keyboard, etc.) Honestly they looked like they weren't so much dumpster-dived as fished out of the rubble of a controlled implosion.
Yay.
This is the io card I have , for reference.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m30/peabodyisla/Apple_IIe/IMAG2466_BURST001_zps01d99f44.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m30/peabodyisla/Apple_IIe/IMAG2466_BURST001_zps01d99f44.jpg
That's the newer 5.25in Floppy Drive card.
So, from what I understand, the //e won't do anything at all with that card installed....UNLESS, I have a 5.25" drive connected and a "bootable" floppy inserted with the door closed? I have never owned any Apple II older than my IIc Plus, so an Apple with expansion capabilities is completely new to me.
When I turn mine on, it makes no difference if cards are installed or not. It still comes up with 'Apple //e' up the top.
If I have a Disk ][ connected, it makes a 'brrrr' noise that is sort of cool, as it tries to read a disk.
If I have a Disk ][ connected, it makes a 'brrrr' noise that is sort of cool, as it tries to read a disk.
The issue I am having, is, with the card installed it won't boot to a prompt. It will display "Apple //e" but not cursor/prompt. If I remove the card, it will boot to a prompt and allow user input.
... If you don't have any disk drives, why do you care if the disk controller is installed?
(Or: does it stop hanging and give you a prompt if you hit... I forget if it's "Reset" by itself or "Ctrl+Reset". Hanging trying to boot is to my knowledge normal behavior for an Apple II with a disk controller in slot 6.)
(Or: does it stop hanging and give you a prompt if you hit... I forget if it's "Reset" by itself or "Ctrl+Reset". Hanging trying to boot is to my knowledge normal behavior for an Apple II with a disk controller in slot 6.)