Thread
Apple IIc complete set restoration
A friend gave me a complete Apple IIc set with the system, monitor, stand and printer including the boxes (with the foam intact!), manuals and software.
There's no damage, but the plastic is quite yellowed, so I started a whitening treatment with a UV lamp for a change (no much sun atm...).
Well: it works very well: I'm quite pleased with the result.
The system is ready and reassembled, the monitor is still in treatment along with some other parts and bits.
Used: Osram Ultra-Vitalux 300W UV lamp and a good lamp-cage & ceramic fitting, a bottle of Oxi Kallos 12% and some time (4 hours with a lamp)
Obviously the summer sun does a better job, but this will certainly do as well.
There's no damage, but the plastic is quite yellowed, so I started a whitening treatment with a UV lamp for a change (no much sun atm...).
Well: it works very well: I'm quite pleased with the result.
The system is ready and reassembled, the monitor is still in treatment along with some other parts and bits.
Used: Osram Ultra-Vitalux 300W UV lamp and a good lamp-cage & ceramic fitting, a bottle of Oxi Kallos 12% and some time (4 hours with a lamp)
Obviously the summer sun does a better job, but this will certainly do as well.
Well, not necessarily. I attempted to do the same thing with an Apple //e, but I couldn't get an even whitening under the sun. The cream kept drying out too quickly, leaving streaks.
Yours appears to have turned out great. I think the trick is a UV lamp, keep the stuff from evaporating.
Yours appears to have turned out great. I think the trick is a UV lamp, keep the stuff from evaporating.
Pigeon, some said plastic wrap over the gel helps too.
But wow does that look sharp!
But wow does that look sharp!
My trick is a simple plant sprayer with water.
Every half hour, I spray some water on the parts and I spread it out with a brush just to keep it humid.
Occasionally I have to add some cream, but not much.
That's what I did during the treatment in the sun too, works like a charm (done several Mac Classics).
Every half hour, I spray some water on the parts and I spread it out with a brush just to keep it humid.
Occasionally I have to add some cream, but not much.
That's what I did during the treatment in the sun too, works like a charm (done several Mac Classics).
I don't use plastic foil anymore: the wrinkles you get with foil causes streaks.
Btw: the UV lamp is also drying out the cream, hence the plant sprayer....
Btw: the UV lamp is also drying out the cream, hence the plant sprayer....
What about using liquid solution and a aquatic pump? Sprayer attachment to keep a continuous flow...
Nice idea, but then you'll need a closed room and a container to take in the liquid. That would be quite an installation.
I'll stay with my method: brush for the cream and sprayer for the moisture: easy and effective.
The monitor was very yellow, almost brown, but this is the result after a few hours (can't believe how nice it came out!)
I'll stay with my method: brush for the cream and sprayer for the moisture: easy and effective.
The monitor was very yellow, almost brown, but this is the result after a few hours (can't believe how nice it came out!)
...and this is the final result:
I'm quite happy how the system turned out.
I'm quite happy how the system turned out.
What lamp did you use? It seems very effective. Only certain light wavelengths work well. And not all lamps produce the same.
I use a Osram Ultra-Vitalux 300W UV lamp: it's working great!
But be sure to use a solid lamp cage with a ceramic fitting, because it's getting hot!
But be sure to use a solid lamp cage with a ceramic fitting, because it's getting hot!
Oh, and I got a tan too... 
It's wise to wear anti-UV sunglasses.
It's wise to wear anti-UV sunglasses.
Let me throw in -
The lamp bulb itself, was it a clear florescent bulb or a dark purple/indigo painted bulb? That answer there will tell me a lot.
The lamp bulb itself, was it a clear florescent bulb or a dark purple/indigo painted bulb? That answer there will tell me a lot.
The specs on the lamp.
UVA radiated power 315…400 nm 13.6W
UVB radiated power 280…315 nm 3.0W
Pretty broad specs, I like to see tighter numbers but they are just covering the entire tanning spectrum. Anything shorter than 280 is a little concerning.
UVA radiated power 315…400 nm 13.6W
UVB radiated power 280…315 nm 3.0W
Pretty broad specs, I like to see tighter numbers but they are just covering the entire tanning spectrum. Anything shorter than 280 is a little concerning.
It's a clear florescent bulb.
Whatever the thoughts regarding the given specs of the Osram UV lamp, I just treated a complete Apple IIc set with it and the result is awesome (even better than expected).
So, instead of staring at the numbers on paper, rather check the archived results...
This lamp cost you $40,- and a good solid industrial lamp cage approx. $20,-
Add a bottle of Oxi Kallos 12% (or similar), a brush and a plant sprayer, and you're good to go.
So, instead of staring at the numbers on paper, rather check the archived results...
This lamp cost you $40,- and a good solid industrial lamp cage approx. $20,-
Add a bottle of Oxi Kallos 12% (or similar), a brush and a plant sprayer, and you're good to go.
I've been hunting for this lamp. In the US it seems $90 is common price. Not a cheap lamp! But I did fine one place online, and I am sure there are more, for less. Two lamps shipped to the US would be less than $120.
http://www.svetila.com/product_info.php?language=en&currency=USD&products_id=1170&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=BaseFeed&utm_campaign=products-EN&gclid=CJiZut3Fm8MCFQ4BaQodclIA6A
http://www.svetila.com/product_info.php?language=en&currency=USD&products_id=1170&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=BaseFeed&utm_campaign=products-EN&gclid=CJiZut3Fm8MCFQ4BaQodclIA6A
I found a German reseller on eBay who's selling this lamp for 39,- euro. (obviously, shipping costs can be too high for the US)
But the link you're showing is from Svetilla: my lamp came from the very same company, and it's the best customer experience I've even had so far!
Every step during the order, shipping etc was communicated to me so I was able to check the status during the whole process.
But the link you're showing is from Svetilla: my lamp came from the very same company, and it's the best customer experience I've even had so far!
Every step during the order, shipping etc was communicated to me so I was able to check the status during the whole process.
Btw: is there a 110 volt version of this lamp? I didn't see one yet.
Very important to avoid heating problems and worse fire and/or short circuits: use a descent lamp cage!
The lamp cage must be able to handle the heat (300W). It's not that expensive: between $20 and $25, much cheaper than a new home...
Very important to avoid heating problems and worse fire and/or short circuits: use a descent lamp cage!
The lamp cage must be able to handle the heat (300W). It's not that expensive: between $20 and $25, much cheaper than a new home...
110v versions of tanning lamps simply do not produce the proper output to reach the proper spectrum. The most effective lamp will be a 220v version such as this. If 110v would do, one would see tanning beds operating at 110v. They are all 220v. Some of the big ones are three-phase 220v.
I did find a US seller for about $60 each shipped. Thats a little more than the Euro sites, but not much.
I did find a US seller for about $60 each shipped. Thats a little more than the Euro sites, but not much.
I had no idea about this phenomena, it's all 220v here but It all makes sense now.
So you'll need a 110v to 220v voltage converter I guess (dirty cheap though).
So you'll need a 110v to 220v voltage converter I guess (dirty cheap though).
Unity, have you tried looking at an aquarium supply store? They sell clear UV Bulbs and fixtures for large aquarium tank disinfecting. You put the bulb into the tank's florescent fixture, turn it on and walk away for a couple of hours. The bigger the tank, the bigger the bulb, the longer the time, but for a 25 gallon tank, its a couple of hours. This kills off the various unwanted microbes that could be infecting your tank. WARNING: Do not look at the blub while it is turned on!
Denus, thanks for answer that because the aquarium disinfecting UV bulb is exactly the same thing.
Those aquarium lamps would not work, period.
I think the price wouldn't differ much anyway, so rather choose for a bulb that has been tested and approved (by me that is).
Just want to clear out that the combination bulb/Oxi Kallos 12%/plant spray to keep things humidified is working great for me.
Except for the bulb, this is also the method I've used last summer with sunshine, and I even did a Casio VL-Tone (VT-1) and some other things which are now snow white.
I can't tell if other methods or products are working as well: it may, it may not...
Just want to clear out that the combination bulb/Oxi Kallos 12%/plant spray to keep things humidified is working great for me.
Except for the bulb, this is also the method I've used last summer with sunshine, and I even did a Casio VL-Tone (VT-1) and some other things which are now snow white.
I can't tell if other methods or products are working as well: it may, it may not...
My lamps came today. I decided to tap into a sub-box for a small water heater I have on the third floor. Oddly my meter is reading the output at 300v! Not sure what is up with that and not sure I want to plug a lamp into that. I know they love 230v and ideally run at 235v. But 300v seems crazy high. Not sure why its reading so high, very odd. Its a dedicated sub box to a breaker in the main box.
That will shorten the lifespan of the lamp for sure!
I think you should seek for a safer option as the lamp isn't cheap....
I think you should seek for a safer option as the lamp isn't cheap....
Btw: this lamp doesn't like to be switch on and off repetitively, that can cause a defect.
So when you put it on for the first time, keep it on for 30 seconds or a minute before you put it off.
So when you put it on for the first time, keep it on for 30 seconds or a minute before you put it off.
^ Correct. The lamp you see is just a protective shell/reflector. The real lamp on the inside is a high intensity discharge and they hate "hot arcs". The electrodes inside can get beaten pretty quick. It should cool down for no less than 10 minutes before firing up again.
Can you clarify what moisture you're spraying on please
Simple tap water, nothing special.
Wow, it did come out great! Just curious, do you have any pictures of before the treatment?