So i have a Macintosh that i bought for a good price a while back (probably a year ago) and when i first turned it on it had issues, but i didn't do much with it, and stuck it in m…

I have nowt (a Yorkshire term meaning nothing) in the way of Mac laptops except some Intel ones (MagSafe, various versions) and an iBook G3 (Snow, Dual USB, 700MHz, 16MB VRAM, 256M…

It is not advisable to use ceramic capacitors in DC-DC switching circuits to replace electrolytics. Tantalum is ok.  Ceramics will vary their capacitance based on the applied volt…

I'm just shaking my head on this because looking at the 190 power area on the last pict Sherry H. posted and having seeing it on my 190, that is a tiny area to recap. No way one is…

the flub-flub-flub is not a broken trace. its either a bad capacitor, shorted capacitor, or shorted load somewhere on one of the rails. You will need to measure resistances to grou…

Yep, DC-DC board is specific to the PowerBook 5300... Unfortunately the 190 has got the power circuitry directly on the logic board. I'm not sure what could be wrong there except m…

Tonights job...

techknight said: And this is where your memory fails you.  the 5300 has a DC-DC board.  The 190, That I am unsure of.  Click to expand... I have both my 5300 and 190 ap…

And this is where your memory fails you.  the 5300 has a DC-DC board.  The 190, That I am unsure of. 

techknight said: Once you know the power input is good, then most likely the DC-DC board is toast. youll need to fix/replace it.  Click to expand... Unfortunately on the …

Test the adapter on another machine, like the clamshell iBook if you got it. At least you will know that will work or not.

Thanks to everyone for support. I will have a closer look, and hope to find something. I have checked with hard drive disconnected, without VRam and Ram.

If you didn't bridge anything then you might have a small fragment of debris floating around... Take that board out and shake it or blow some air on it... Also, Have you checked wi…

Well since pretty much everything on the entire board runs on 5 V . Usually shorts are caused by solder bridges. But in the case of these LC boards. Have a closer look at all t…

I am thinking that maybe the board is bad, the problem come and goes for whatever reason, i have removed most of my work to double check, and nothing obvious. The problem disappea…

I havé continuity between 5 volt and ground at the PSU connector and at C19 pads.

Yeah, Here's a board with stock caps that has correct polarity so it's not backwards on all of them... Just be mindful of it... Your silk screening is correct BTW... Stupid questi…

check the input voltage from the AC adapter to make sure it isnt falling. If it seems stable, assuming your DMM will see the transients. Dont use a cheap 10 dollar meter they wont …

It's coming Monday (18 May 2015) so no verdict on it yet. I'll tell you sometime next week. The power adapter (which I may not need, since I found the Clamshell adapter) arrived t…

What is the verdict with the 1400/166? Does it work? The topic being hot is because it reached 20 replies in a short time.

It's trying to boot. It sounds like it is not getting enough voltage to the board. Q: Is the battery in when you turn it on? Try turning it on without the battery. Also check tha…

Yep the c22 there, especially if you're installing a Tantalum , The silkscreen is incorrect, so plus is negative the negative is plus, for c22 only. Of course installing bipola…

Apparently C19 should be the cap for +5 volt (C22 for -5 volt) i have removed the capacitor but without schematics i won't be able to trace anything. Here are pictures:

Start out by figuring out which cap is for 5 volt, can you post a high-res image of your logic board? Also, I remember reading somewhere that Uniserver found a cap that was labeled…

This topic is marked as "HOT"! I think it's the first topic I started that is "HOT"! Edit: Actually all the topics I've started (save my latest one) are "HOT".