I like the name of the mobo pic.
Motherboard-f*cked.jpg
:rambo:
Motherboard-f*cked.jpg
:rambo:
Classic II cure not so curative - a mininovel with photos :P
You're welcome to tell me it's an inappropriate name, but I can't think of a better description for what I did to it
Btw, I have thought that if you would like I can ship you back (with me covering it) my now-a-little-difficult-to-fix classic II board - that way, if you decide to sell or give the classic II to someone who has the know how, they would have everything necessary to get the machine running again - or should you find the time and inclination (and possibly a little help!) ... I also have all the capacitor values written down as you noted earlier so the lack of caps won't pose a /huge/ problem.
Let me know if that's of any use to you - if it's not, no biggie, just a thought.
OK! Here's my first pass at it.Darn! I am in the process of doing it!Let's see who can do it better
The Orange needs a little more saturation for differentiation from the Yellow.
The right edge probably needs to be tone balanced so it looks straight, but it might work, as is, on a white background.
I'm more than half tempted to do a rounded, bite equipped rev . . .
. . . with a portion of the leaf as a "flag" hangin' from the mast/riser. }
Dunno though, that's one of those "over the top" inclinations that I've been trying to moderate just a bit . . . [V]
dunno about where your at, but in the states RoHS only applies to commercial application, and you can use lead solder all you want as a hobbiest
Uh, solder has been 60% tin / 40% lead for a VERY long time...
I'm in Australia. And I'm referring to that many kits now come with the leadless solder - somewhat serviceable when you're starting a project, but perhaps less so when it comes repair or tear-down time.
Oh right, I thought older solder used to have more lead than that. *is stupid* :I
Plumbing solder is 50/50 Tin/Lead.
Electrical solder is 60/40 Tin/Lead.
The very early soldering (with the giant pokerirons that you'd heat in an oven or fire) would probably have been done only with the half-and-half.
I'm of the understanding that the ideal ratio of tin to lead in solder (for electronics work) is actually 63% tin, 37% lead, but I'm unsure why.
HEY jt I beat you!
It's better, Posted to lounge 
It's better, Posted to lounge ... That's still only 80*80, the original is 512*512 which is far more agreeable!HEY jt I beat you!
Not to derail this nice tangent, but about the board? What are your thoughts Mars?
15 AU/ 10 US? Plus Shipping? I can get it to you this weekend and then I can take pictures and send them to you.
Oh and also found the 512x512 image. Will modify that one today
Ok... Uh, I hope you'd excuse the request, but would it be able to be set for /next/ weekend please? I'll need to have money to give you, and that happens next thursday (not tomorrow, but the following) - because basically I'm intending to pay you!
I'm about to go poke trag with a list of caps, which hopefully I'll be buying the same day.
Thanks kindly!
No problem, that's even better.
Here is some more tangent:
P.S. jt, feel free to modify this to make the Hackapple }
P.S. jt, feel free to modify this to make the Hackapple }
68kMLA_Tangential_OPS ROCK! :rambo:
:approve:P.S. jt, feel free to modify this to make the Hackapple }
OH MY GOD, I LOVE THIS THREAD SO MUCH.
(Imma go steal that now. Congratulations, you're about to be remembered forever.)
HAHAHAHAH Thanks
Psssst The link to my wiki is not that necessary but if you really want to put it it's :
http://68kmla.org/wiki/User:Mars478
ThanksPsssst The link to my wiki is not that necessary but if you really want to put it it's :
http://68kmla.org/wiki/User:Mars478
That would be the most epic User Title! Wish I could have it, You should change yours to that!
Electrolytics do make wonderful heatsinks, they also make wonderful firecrackers when they get too hot, not that i know this from experience or anything..... }I hear Classic IIs aren't that expensive today, what with all the iMacs that are out
A very long time ago, when I was repairing a PowerBook 1xx (I don't remember the /exact/ one) for a friend (battery issues) I actually gave myself significant burns across my hand while I was working - I didn't know at the time that the cells got so hot!
And also, I have burned my fingers, yes - electrolytic caps make WONDERFUL heatsinks!
I'll post a high-res photo of the area with the two stripped pads/tracks when I get back from breakfast. Hopefully that will be adequate to determine what's going on
This is ending up to be more trouble than I anticipated. But never will it be more trouble than it's worth
Also you need to pick up some Xerox film remover, which is a very strong alchohol much better than regular rubbing alchohol. Also a can of MG Chemicals flux remover will do as well, that way you can clean up that whole board nice, and youll figure out right away where the pads and traces connected to. with all that crud, its hard to tell....
I used regular through-hole radial electrolytics, bending leads and soldering on top just like you did, on my SE/30. it still works to this day. just have to do it right.
Ok, I've fixed that right up, I hope :b&w:HAHAHAHAH
http://68kmla.org/wiki/User:Mars478
If I might beg your indulgence just a little further, could I please get close-up photos of the caps on YOUR classic II board? It seems that the amount of caps varied a little between some of the boards, and as i'll be getting the caps and the board at the same time, it will be a huge pain if i find i've cocked up.
I dug out my AppleCD 150e also, long dead however I liberated (along with the Classic II and the Macintosh and the IIvx) a tray-loading AppleCD 300i Plus, which I have electrically and physically hacked into the enclosure, so I now have what will be a working CD-ROM drive for transferring files it seems
I have the cable for it - cn-50 to db-25, however I have not got the terminator brick. Once I have figured it all out, I'll start a thread in Hacks on how to make your own passive terminating resistor block - at the moment I'm just poring over the spec.
Thanks again for all your help! I'll be in touch via privmsg closer to Thursday so things can be sorted out