Thread
Just got a Broken Color Classic! Looking for advice
Also, I found Apple's Service Repair manual relativley easy on google, but it is of no help. According to the troubleshooting guide, I should replace my logic board because I have already put in a new battery and connected the keyboard. Perhaps there is a more in-depth manual somewhere else.
Sent you a PM.
M
System6+Vista
Many CCs that have not been used for some time need up to 24hr—or more—just sitting quietly with mains power connected and switched-on at the rear of the Mac before there is even the ghost of a chance of startup from the keyboard. You presumably know by now whether your CC uses a 4.5-V alkaline or a 3.6-V lithium PRAM battery. If you have replaced the PRAM battery already, and checked the MLB and analogue board for condition, goodness of all breakable and remakeable connections, and checked that all inserted or attached components appear to be genuine, you give yourself a better chance. Capacitor leakage is not unknown even in CCs. If you read the references above you will find much that is useful in the resuscitation process.
The CC does not have a PMU, which requires (in much later Macs than the CC) a single button-press for not more than 1sec. The CC has a CUDA, which functions only for as long as the button is held in. PMU and CUDA do much the same things, but the PMU is much more complex (a computer-within-a-computer) than the simpler capacitive-discharge CUDA. However, if you have had the MLB out and the battery removed, you have already reset the MLB. When you are ready to fire up the CC, slide the MLB into its newly-cleaned edge-connector, and then hold in the CUDA button for 20sec just before you replace the case bucket. If it does not then start up from the keyboard immediately after mains switch-on, use the soak-on-the-mains-for-a-day procedure. If you do not hear an audible 'klunk' (akin to the sound of a relay pulling-in) when first any of the pseudosoft-powered Macs from CC to LC/Performa 3-digit models is switched on at the rear, you can expect that there will be some time before soft-power switch-on will be possible, and then only if the Mac is capable of working.
de
Many CCs that have not been used for some time need up to 24hr—or more—just sitting quietly with mains power connected and switched-on at the rear of the Mac before there is even the ghost of a chance of startup from the keyboard. You presumably know by now whether your CC uses a 4.5-V alkaline or a 3.6-V lithium PRAM battery. If you have replaced the PRAM battery already, and checked the MLB and analogue board for condition, goodness of all breakable and remakeable connections, and checked that all inserted or attached components appear to be genuine, you give yourself a better chance. Capacitor leakage is not unknown even in CCs. If you read the references above you will find much that is useful in the resuscitation process.
The CC does not have a PMU, which requires (in much later Macs than the CC) a single button-press for not more than 1sec. The CC has a CUDA, which functions only for as long as the button is held in. PMU and CUDA do much the same things, but the PMU is much more complex (a computer-within-a-computer) than the simpler capacitive-discharge CUDA. However, if you have had the MLB out and the battery removed, you have already reset the MLB. When you are ready to fire up the CC, slide the MLB into its newly-cleaned edge-connector, and then hold in the CUDA button for 20sec just before you replace the case bucket. If it does not then start up from the keyboard immediately after mains switch-on, use the soak-on-the-mains-for-a-day procedure. If you do not hear an audible 'klunk' (akin to the sound of a relay pulling-in) when first any of the pseudosoft-powered Macs from CC to LC/Performa 3-digit models is switched on at the rear, you can expect that there will be some time before soft-power switch-on will be possible, and then only if the Mac is capable of working.
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Fantastic. I have followed your procedure with the little red button, and am leaving the CC with the main power on for the next 24 hours. What is the "soak the mains" method? I am also awaiting instructions on where to test voltage with my multimeter from the PSU so I can figure out if its the PSU or MLB.
The SOTMFAD procedure is that already mentioned. Switch the cleaned, refurbished, checked and reassembled CC on with the rear mains switch. Try to start up from the keyboard. If there is no response, or if you hear a rapid clicking in time with flashing from the power-light on the front, leave the CC to soak for another couple of hours. Leave the rear mains power switch on. Try again after a couple of hours of soaking. If you get no startup by the end of two days of soaking, and periodic attempts to start up, the CC is not in a condition to start up, and you have a greater problem than failure of pseudosoft power-on. There is a good side to this: every one of five CCs to pass through my hands (and four of them are still with me, years later) has responded to this revivification process after less than a day, given that the prior cleaning, checking, reseating, replacement, &c has been done.
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I should also have mentioned that not all the MLBs of CCs have a CUDA switch. In such cases the MLB is reset when you remove all power to it (by removing the battery, of whichever voltage, and taking the MLB from the computer) for at least 10min. Alternatively, if resetting just before reassembly is the objective, disconnect and slide the MLB out of its edge-connector a couple of inches or so through the in/out doorway, and then remove/disconnect the battery. After the 10min, replace/reconnect the battery, slide the MLB back into place, and replace the in/out door before you reconnect the mains cable and switch on.
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Yesterday, I left the CC mains on and left the house for the night. I just returned, and expecting nothing I clicked the power key on the ADB keyboard. The Color Classic was turned away from me, but I heard the sound and the entire machine booted up normally! It is now in perfect working condition and has 8mb of RAM, a 40mb hard drive and the color and sound are brilliant. It seems like all it needed was a new PRAM battery and to be left on for a while!
Thank you to everyone who helped me with this. This is really my dream 68k Macintosh. Now to get an ethernet PDS card!
Thank you to everyone who helped me with this. This is really my dream 68k Macintosh. Now to get an ethernet PDS card!
Given that he's gotten it working now, this is now somewhat irrelevant. But to respond to your comment, he was already talking about servicing the unit, replacing the PSU, swapping boards, etc. So given that, recommending that he make some simple measurements first was a logical one. Also, you seem to be assuming that exposure to "high voltage" is a necessary accompaniment to making such measurements. That isn't true; at least one very revealing measurement (of the +5V supply) can be made at the scsi or adb connector. Opening up the unit isn't even necessary.
I believe strongly in making such measurements before undertaking the more drastic steps he'd been considering. This is just basic troubleshooting 101. The random flail method can succeed, but a more structured approach is more reliable.
Well I think kudos to equill for suggesting what he did. It certainly didn't come into my mind at all that it just needed the power turned on for a while. 
I've been following this thread and am glad to see the OP got the CC running again!
One of my friends has one of these and someday I'm going to steal it from him. }
Not really, but I do like them a lot more than my SEFD.
One of my friends has one of these and someday I'm going to steal it from him. }
Not really, but I do like them a lot more than my SEFD.
Good to hear another CC lives! Since its your "dream 68k Macintosh", i'm hoping that means that its going to be left original and not become a Takky. 
I agree, Tom. But keep in mind that I don't own a CC and don't have an available Service Manual to follow on troubleshooting these machines. I know it sounds like I'm just guessing, but I'm also making clear where the possible problems could originate from. Now I had no clue about needing to plug the CC into the wall outlet, wait 24 hours and it will finally kick on. It's in fact quite intriguing to me that Apple created this machine to work that way. In short, now I understand.Given that he's gotten it working now, this is now somewhat irrelevant. But to respond to your comment, he was already talking about servicing the unit, replacing the PSU, swapping boards, etc. So given that, recommending that he make some simple measurements first was a logical one. Also, you seem to be assuming that exposure to "high voltage" is a necessary accompaniment to making such measurements. That isn't true; at least one very revealing measurement (of the +5V supply) can be made at the scsi or adb connector. Opening up the unit isn't even necessary.
I believe strongly in making such measurements before undertaking the more drastic steps he'd been considering. This is just basic troubleshooting 101. The random flail method can succeed, but a more structured approach is more reliable.
Right now, I'm just glad System6+Vista was able to try the suggestions and get the CC back up and running, even if he didn't know how to test or had the equipment. That was my first clue. Now, for myself, I already have the needed test equipment to do the proper checks of voltages, etc. I usually only post my issues here once I've exhausted all possible checks. Most of the time I can solve the problems before researching them here.
73s de Phreakout.
Mayday Mayday, it does nothing again. I have posted a new threat because this one has gotten so lengthy.