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Performa 200

Performa 200 Hardware 86 posts Apr 18, 2015 — Apr 20, 2015
Started on the performa 200

The board as I got it.

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caps removed
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board cleaned
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Recapped the board but no chime.
Compared my performa 200 to this one and noticed the roms were in backwards and 1 pin in the wrong direction. So I put them in the same as on my board.
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still no chime.
Found 2 shorts on the cpu and fixed thoes
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still no chime.
Im wondering.........could the roms have been damaged if it was powered up with the roms in backwards??
 
any ideas people?








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Wow! Looks like it was exposed to some heat eh?

cant see any heat exposure anywhere 360alaska. !! - where do you mean ?

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just removed battery holder..........this board is in perfect condition. No acid leak what so ever.

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rollermanz did a pretty good job recapping this one.....I took off all the caps to clean it ............no pads lifted.........nothing

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all I found wrong was roms in backwards...........and 2 pins of cpu shorted ( im pretty sure they were anyway..........they are not now)

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still no chime

Ya, That thing took some heat. ROM sockets even show signs. Not to mention the board label.

I am sure you do not have a spare set of ROMS from a Classic II, etc? Im not sure how the ROMS would respond to be in wrong. They can certainly be in the wrong sockets and come out fine.

Check the ROMs one at a time and see if they work on the good Performa 200.

Signs of HEAT:

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Looking at this picture, he obviously got it hot enough to re-flow the solder...Too bad he didn't apply any flux :(

This is what solder looks like when it has been reheated without flux...

Also: did you notice this bridge? is this what you fixed when you said cpu shorted?

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see what you mean - the ram holders have signs of melting as well.........but this board is small and to hold the board in your hand you would not see it.

the pictures show every detail. Its was the pictures that I saw the short on the cpu from.

jesus.......if this was cooked like the color classic then there might be SM components missing on the back.

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have already gone over the whole board with the magnifying glass and found nothing.

I did find that I put C4 in backwards......was sure that was it..........put in a new 47uf ....correctly........but still no joy.

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this board looks brand new. Its in better condition than mine.........

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ahhhhhh .........this is the slow bit..........look,look,look

great idea Elfen.......ill do that.

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360..........yep........that's the one I saw....plus another, 2 pins to the left. Have since gone over every chip looking for more........but nothing

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again people...........these are not my boards.......im trying to fix them for a chap in the uk

great idea Elfen.......ill do that.

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360..........yep........that's the one I saw....plus another, 2 pins to the left. Have since gone over every chip looking for more........but nothing

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again people...........these are not my boards.......im trying to fix them for a chap in the uk

Honestly, I think it's a lost cause, it looks like every joint would need to be fluxed and reflowed! Also, look at all of those vias you would need to fill!

I have two classic board right now. The new looking one is dead. The one with visible corrosion works great. Go figure....

Honestly, I think it's a lost cause, it looks like every joint would need to be fluxed and reflowed! Also, look at all of those vias you would need to fill!
I am leaning towards agreeing with this. The more I look up close, which I did not before, the more I see signs of extreme baking. The board may be cooked. No telling if damaged happened inside some chips.

If you want to fix it, don't let me stop you... But these vias don't look like they would be complete circuits:

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Elfen - good call - I swapped the roms over to my good board and good chime

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roms are back in the bad board now.

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I am beginning to agree with you lads..............the back of the board has some strange shapes on the solder on all the resistor connections

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hang on..........ill get a picture of the back

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looks like its been baked.............Ive never seen solder in that shape on the back of a board.

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Looks like it was molten...............after its manufacture.

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That's 3 boards and I only got 1 working.

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the classic and color classic are even worse.

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OOOOOOHHHHHHH   DEAR

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C57 & C66 almost look open. They probably are not, could be lighting. But with a quick glance they stood out.

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jasus - just had a futher look with magnifying glass.

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there are via's on the underside where the solder has 'dripped' off. Most of the via's are like little balls of solder under the board.

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from the top (cpu side) all the via's are sunken

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well done 360............correct diagnosis id say

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this baby is toast

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for the laugh............I might put it in an oven the other way up see if can...........................eeehhhh.....................naaaa

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feck it

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next!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

heres a few shots from the side of the underneath............you can see like..........little hemispheres of solder.

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looks like they moved unity.............those and allot of others

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pity

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Wow, from that view C66 does look open on the left.

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was about to go bed...........sure to hell with it..ill plug in the soldering iron and fix c66 for the laugh

Well if theres one, there may be more.... :)

Its a shame, that board looks good otherwise.

just metered c66 and its good. looks like the solder was molten, flowed down with gravity, but there appears to be a thin layer of solder making the connections on most of them,

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no...........im not going there

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theres hundreds of resistors, caps, diodes ............there all the same............

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this one is gone im afraid. wont be doing anymore on this.

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thanks for all your help people

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Guys no i never baked this board .. I am 200% sure i never baked this board.. I got this board with its orignal capaictors on, when turned on no chime and a blank screen.. i then took them off, washed the board, left it outside for 2 days drying up then still used a hair deyer to dry the ports and all to make sure theres no water in it then recapped and put it in still no joy.. I then tried with different roms and still didnt work.. Which i where i think i put the roms upside down.. I then googled and found out that some vias need re soldering or renewing the joints so i took a soldering iron and renewed EVERY SINGLE JOINT on this board.. NO BAKING AT ALL .. The first and last time i ever baked a board in the oven was the cc board thats all.. I never believed in baking it anyways but when guys insisted on this then i tried with the cc and made it worse .. So no baking at all.. Whatever you see on this board, is me renewed the joints thats all .. Dont worry i did dry the board with leaving it outside .. I did not bake it ..

**unless you used  heat gun instead of a hair dryer.

or the person before you baked it.

letting a board sit wet for 2 days is really not cool... always compressor dry these things off right after a wash.

there looked like 2 shorted areas on the cpu legs fallen.

also the sound I/C controls reset with these , many times i'v had to hot air off the sound IC, only to find rotted up traces, roted up pads. under it.

also I believe U14

ram chip goes bad,   from the cap goo.   its in other classic ii threads, i think the first 2 ram chips closest to the caps there can be subject to cooked ram chips.   ( witch the bad ram shows no physical signs of being dead, just maybe some rot on the legs.

so i think you should start with the ASC.

u14 maybe u13(replace)*1,  then ASC pads and traces (have to remove the IC),  EGRET *2

are all issues that arise with the Classic II.

Also BOMARC just completed his final Documentation and is going to be drafting up a schematic for this classic II

well the 4 rom chip version but they are mostly close enough... 

*1 you can scavenge a ram chip from a basically any mac that has 4mb soldered onboard.

even the 6100 with 8mb soldered on board.  even a LC depending on what parts boards you have lying around.

*2 EGRET,  you can use the EGRET from LC-I / LC-II if needed.  not sure if the EGRET from LC-3 works... 

however i do think the EGRET from a LC-III will work with the Color Classic, those also have ERGET issues ( cap goo related )

I didnt use a heat gun either .. That tiny bit of plactic melted on the floppy drive connector is when i was put the capacitors on, i touched the soldering iron my accident .. Ni heat gun or baking and i made sure t was fully dry before i flogged it into the machine ..

The guy before hadnt even touched it .. He never did anything with at all.. Thats why i said i recapped it which means he never touched it

oh well those picture show that it was cooked.. its ok...  wither you did it or the holy ghost did it,  its been cooked.

but it doesn't look to be that bad from my perspective.

i think fallen's IRISH insanity...  + Bulldog like determination will make it work before too long... no worries.

No holy ghost did it .. It was never baked .. I only ever baked a cc board when u suggested and iknw i baked it in celcius .. But that was the only electronic thing i ever baked in my life ..the guy before me never baked it either ..

rollermanz - its not a witch hunt............its all good fun

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you did a great job on the recap......your best of the 5. Better than most of my recaps in my first few months.

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uniserver has put up some good things I can check..........so we'll have a look later.

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for all we know apple may have had a blown thermocouple on the day it was built. Could be something silly

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well have another go at it later on

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cheers

uniserver...........anybody!!!!

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which chip is the soundchip on these??

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cheers

mp.ls