Thread
VACUUM FORMING ACRYLIC: First failed . . .
That's a great process for getting the surface to fit the bezel, but the problem I'm facing for the MacQuarium parts would be flattening the shape within the width of the bezel.
The double forming notion is one I'm considering for creating a 1/4" AcrylicCRT that might be machined to a flat surface in two different dimensions. The same is possible for the rear portion of the CRT, but I'm not rushing into either experiment.
For now, the ZipMacPlus_Chernobyl_Edition™ will suffice . . .
. . . with proper Blacklight-EdgeLighting, of course! [
] ]'>
The double forming notion is one I'm considering for creating a 1/4" AcrylicCRT that might be machined to a flat surface in two different dimensions. The same is possible for the rear portion of the CRT, but I'm not rushing into either experiment.
For now, the ZipMacPlus_Chernobyl_Edition™ will suffice . . .
. . . with proper Blacklight-EdgeLighting, of course! [
] ]'>Did you try a heat gun?Does anyone already know how to remove the CRT's metal mounting band using a non-destructive process? [}] ]'>
Good idea, I just tried it on one corner and got a lot of stink and a little bit of tarlike gunk out of the crack betwixt metal and glass. First I pulled all the tape off the metal band . . .
. . . so there wouldn't necessarily be flame and a lot of smoke involved in the test.
Maybe I'll fire up the compressor when I get home from work tomorrow and grind out the spot welds that hold the band together at the seam.
Between that and the heat gun, maybe I can get it off.
. . . so there wouldn't necessarily be flame and a lot of smoke involved in the test.
Maybe I'll fire up the compressor when I get home from work tomorrow and grind out the spot welds that hold the band together at the seam.
Between that and the heat gun, maybe I can get it off.
Once you get that ironed out, then you need to get some window tint and tint it. It would look more like a real CRT even though ti isnt.
Thanks that's a great idea for an LCD Bubble, I'll have to look into availability though. Do automotive tints come in a really mild treatment? My last car had film on it that didn't look legal in NC, but passed the measured test. ISTR it being a bit strong for putting in front of an LCD.
I think I'll leave the MacQuarium perfectly clear, if and when. I'm not crazy about having as many joints as will be necessary to do what I'd like to achieve. It is going to be above a working computer. A spillway for a joint failure within the bezel is one thing, but having a split the length of the CRT will need some thinking.
I think I'll leave the MacQuarium perfectly clear, if and when. I'm not crazy about having as many joints as will be necessary to do what I'd like to achieve. It is going to be above a working computer. A spillway for a joint failure within the bezel is one thing, but having a split the length of the CRT will need some thinking.
I think I've figured out a method of marking the front and back "halves" of an AcrylicCRT so they'll mate up reasonably well:
00) purchase sacrificial turkey baster at dollar store . . .
01) line a baking sheet with plastic drop cloth . . .
02) find or create a perfectly level surface . . .
03) place baking sheet on level/ed surface . . .
04) place formed section into baking sheet . . .
05) weight section to hold it down against barometric pressure . . .
06) pour latex paint into pan v-e-r-y slowly and carefully . . .
07)siphon last application of paint into turkey baster . . .
08) inject paint into pool v-e-r-y slowly and carefully and siphon it back out to form and preserve cut line . . .
. . . then I'll just need to siphon off enough paint with the baster to lower the level for safe removal of the formed part without disturbing the remainder of the paint and let it dry . . .
. . . I can then do something along the lines of screwing the flat waste sections to a piece of plywood for clamping while cutting along the paint line with the Ryoba . . .
Using the plastic welder, I can join and fill the imperfections with clear acrylic welding rod and thoroughly test the MacQuarium for leakage.
I should be able to re-create the metal mounting band in plexi at the new "diameter" for solvent welding to the joined/bead filed weld of the two sections. That ought to do a nice job of reinforcing the heat weld joint provide mounting ears and re-create the original appearances all at the same time.
edit: If I cut the inside of the plywood mounting board as a template, I can use the makeshift Router Table to do the greater part of the cutoffs automagically . . . }
. . . that would give me a solid edge to follow and a near perfect mating surface after filing the cuts. MUAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:
00) purchase sacrificial turkey baster at dollar store . . .
01) line a baking sheet with plastic drop cloth . . .
02) find or create a perfectly level surface . . .
03) place baking sheet on level/ed surface . . .
04) place formed section into baking sheet . . .
05) weight section to hold it down against barometric pressure . . .
06) pour latex paint into pan v-e-r-y slowly and carefully . . .
07)siphon last application of paint into turkey baster . . .
08) inject paint into pool v-e-r-y slowly and carefully and siphon it back out to form and preserve cut line . . .
. . . then I'll just need to siphon off enough paint with the baster to lower the level for safe removal of the formed part without disturbing the remainder of the paint and let it dry . . .
. . . I can then do something along the lines of screwing the flat waste sections to a piece of plywood for clamping while cutting along the paint line with the Ryoba . . .
Using the plastic welder, I can join and fill the imperfections with clear acrylic welding rod and thoroughly test the MacQuarium for leakage.
I should be able to re-create the metal mounting band in plexi at the new "diameter" for solvent welding to the joined/bead filed weld of the two sections. That ought to do a nice job of reinforcing the heat weld joint provide mounting ears and re-create the original appearances all at the same time.
edit: If I cut the inside of the plywood mounting board as a template, I can use the makeshift Router Table to do the greater part of the cutoffs automagically . . . }
. . . that would give me a solid edge to follow and a near perfect mating surface after filing the cuts. MUAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: