Thread
I want to do this...
I'd be very interested to hear your opinion of the image quality of these, as I have one on the way myself (when I can afford to ship it across the Pacific).
Still, it would open up a lot of space for hardware.
Pardon my snark-link :I
I'll plug it in Sunday when I get back to the house. It is new in box, so I have high hopes!
Maybe my 460 will be waiting on the stoop, and I'll pretest the whole setup
Maybe my 460 will be waiting on the stoop, and I'll pretest the whole setup
Very ugly case hacking.
You'll need to lop the mounting ears off the CRT and fit their remains into slots you'll need to make on the inside of the case sides. Not too bad if it's like mine was. IIRC, it fit really nicely except for the @$$ end. CRT curvature and image size were pretty much perfect.
I'd wanted to do a version of the BackPack(?) drive to hide the CRT Neck/Board, but the angles didn't work out, so I went for indescribably fugly . . .
. . . that, I achieved! :lol:
You'll need to lop the mounting ears off the CRT and fit their remains into slots you'll need to make on the inside of the case sides. Not too bad if it's like mine was. IIRC, it fit really nicely except for the @$$ end. CRT curvature and image size were pretty much perfect.
I'd wanted to do a version of the BackPack(?) drive to hide the CRT Neck/Board, but the angles didn't work out, so I went for indescribably fugly . . .
. . . that, I achieved! :lol:
I knew I'd seen it somewhere
That's not, by a long shot, the ugliest hack I've ever seen. Some plastic weld and paint and it'd still be prettier than a real CC.
That's not, by a long shot, the ugliest hack I've ever seen. Some plastic weld and paint and it'd still be prettier than a real CC.
Now yer talkin' my language, the CC was an abomination, being neither Color at an acceptable resolution for its size . . .
. . . nor was it a Classic by any stretch of imagination . . . more of an earlobectomized MacTV . . .
. . . but it looked fun as hell to hack!
)
Never mind the Quadra, go G3!!!!! }
p.s. if you weld it together, you can't get it apart, much less assemble it. Maybe your monitor has a more angular look from the back, that'd help a lot.
. . . nor was it a Classic by any stretch of imagination . . . more of an earlobectomized MacTV . . .
. . . but it looked fun as hell to hack!
) Never mind the Quadra, go G3!!!!! }
p.s. if you weld it together, you can't get it apart, much less assemble it. Maybe your monitor has a more angular look from the back, that'd help a lot.
I've added to my collection (again). A Performa 460 arrived after the new year... grumble UPS grumble... and I just won a Q605 for $35 shipped. The 460/475 case has very promising angles and curves for what I'm imagining for the case hack. I'm going to try some casting ideas before I decide to cut up any pizza boxes. I'm also interested in seeing the 605's contours to see if they better match, but I'd be really surprised if that we're the "case." HA!
I'll have to cut a hole for the pout, but the Classic II video was dead anyway, so this Mac was already dead. I'd be happy to send somebody the lobo if they want to try to get it to work again. The analog board is probably fried, but if somebody wants the video system out of this I can try to package and send it out.
Anyway my current idea is to grease the pout up on the 460 real good and make a plaster cast of it. Then I'll cut the pout zone out of the CII's face, position the new greased cast and fill in the spaces with vinyl wood filler to get a close to correct facia that I can tweak by sanding/filing.
Of course, I'll need a few hours to myself to accomplish this, and I haven't even had time to plug in my tiny VGA CRT yet. Things should be slowing down to a gallop soon so I may get the time to do the case hack and then figure out the monitor
I'll have to cut a hole for the pout, but the Classic II video was dead anyway, so this Mac was already dead. I'd be happy to send somebody the lobo if they want to try to get it to work again. The analog board is probably fried, but if somebody wants the video system out of this I can try to package and send it out.
Anyway my current idea is to grease the pout up on the 460 real good and make a plaster cast of it. Then I'll cut the pout zone out of the CII's face, position the new greased cast and fill in the spaces with vinyl wood filler to get a close to correct facia that I can tweak by sanding/filing.
Of course, I'll need a few hours to myself to accomplish this, and I haven't even had time to plug in my tiny VGA CRT yet. Things should be slowing down to a gallop soon so I may get the time to do the case hack and then figure out the monitor
I've got a new pout nominee for you, Al:
I just lopped off the two ends front bezel of eBay's Cheapest, FUGLIEST, FeetsLess 6100/60 . . .
The curvature looks pretty darn good for your purposes. The Radius of the arc is longer, so you can sand off the two ends of the pout, leaving the center untouched. Adding the floppy eje most evil Power Button implementation extant would, of course, be optional.
I'm looking into fabbing a Zip/HDD ZFP front bezel along the lines of what you're doing to the Classic.
I just lopped off the two ends front bezel of eBay's Cheapest, FUGLIEST, FeetsLess 6100/60 . . .
The curvature looks pretty darn good for your purposes. The Radius of the arc is longer, so you can sand off the two ends of the pout, leaving the center untouched. Adding the floppy eje most evil Power Button implementation extant would, of course, be optional.
I'm looking into fabbing a Zip/HDD ZFP front bezel along the lines of what you're doing to the Classic.
If I can't manage it with what I have I'll give up. My wife's already fuming over the 2 small pizza boxes. If I brought back a large 6100, I'd be a basement couch dweller for sure
I don't really feel any pressing need to do this hack, shoot me your address in a PM. 
Lemme know whether to keep the the power button section here or leave it on there . . .
. . . if you wanna offload your extra/empty case if this frees it up, that might help reduce your level of MacMisery . . .
. . . ain't nuthin' never gonna make 'em happy 'bout this here hobby, fella. ;D
Lemme know whether to keep the the power button section here or leave it on there . . .
. . . if you wanna offload your extra/empty case if this frees it up, that might help reduce your level of MacMisery . . .
. . . ain't nuthin' never gonna make 'em happy 'bout this here hobby, fella. ;D
As I posted in the original Trading Post thread, a very sharp little monitor. Pretty excited to use it... in... something or other.
The 10" color CRT has a huge board inside, that'll make using it anywhere other than it's original case something unpleasant. It (predictably) won't bolt into the original holes inside the classic anyway, so it's more work than I'm willing to mess with.
Guess I'm looking for an Apple 12" Monochrome monitor now for this hack.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on my case-lift though, so at the very least it'll be a Classic II with a c.'94 style.
I am going to try to make a 475 out of my busted-case Q605 and my lovely working P460. Then the 605's case will be hack fodder
Guess I'm looking for an Apple 12" Monochrome monitor now for this hack.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on my case-lift though, so at the very least it'll be a Classic II with a c.'94 style.
I am going to try to make a 475 out of my busted-case Q605 and my lovely working P460. Then the 605's case will be hack fodder
Does the monitor's manual have an exploded parts diagram you could scan & post?
Trash: nope. I should've taken pics when it was apart.
Just bought a 9" SVGA monochrome monitor. We'll see if it survives being shipped. I have high hopes! I also have high pessimism. So I'm balanced. :/
Just bought a 9" SVGA monochrome monitor. We'll see if it survives being shipped. I have high hopes! I also have high pessimism. So I'm balanced. :/
That's a lovely little monitor, Al. If you don't need the plastics, I've got a great idea for a hack. I've been playing with the 6100 BezelBits and that monitor case, sans tilt-n-swivel base, would fit just about perfectly on top of it. [}] ]'>
Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
] ]'>Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
Will do!
So, in spite of a few setbacks, I'm thinking now about how I'm going to get everything out the back of the box.
When the LC sized logic board is slid (slided?) all the way to the front of the case, there is about two inches left between the ports and the holes in the back of the case for the (very differently located) Classic II ports.
I'm thinking that I can solve two problems at once by making a little < 2" wide card that moves all the ports over to their correct places on the back of the case. I could (I hope) then position the Ethernet jack behind the now pointless external floppy hole, and make a VGA header or upward-facing VGA plug to send the video up to the innards of the 9" mono monitor.
My other option is carving a big rectangle all the way across the back of the Classic II's port holes for access to the ports, and having a video cable that reenters the case in an ugly fashion. I have seen people make little boards for other projects (there was a particularly well done mini in a Plus mod with what I'm talking about), but have never done such a thing myself.
So what I want is a 813/16" x 2" (223mm x 50mm) board with the correct SCSI, Serial, ADB, and audio ports (probably cannibalized off of the Classic II's dead logic board), in the correct Classic II positions on one 813/16" edge, with either headers & custom cabling, or the opposite gender of the same ports in the LC positions on the other edge. I'm thinking headers and custom cabling is more in my ballpark, since I'd have to source male serial and ADB ports, which would be... difficult. Maybe a combo, with the fairly big and central SCSI actually having a male DB-25 that screws in (providing mechanical support as a bonus), and everything else headers with spliced cables to simplify the routing.
How does one begin the process? I know I'll need to make a parts list and do some very precise measuring. Is there an app? Is there a guy I should ask to do it for er... help me?
I'm hoping one of the accomplished soldering-iron wielders around here will be able to assemble it for me, because I am more likely to end up in the emergency room than end up with a useful product if I try to solder it myself.
When the LC sized logic board is slid (slided?) all the way to the front of the case, there is about two inches left between the ports and the holes in the back of the case for the (very differently located) Classic II ports.
I'm thinking that I can solve two problems at once by making a little < 2" wide card that moves all the ports over to their correct places on the back of the case. I could (I hope) then position the Ethernet jack behind the now pointless external floppy hole, and make a VGA header or upward-facing VGA plug to send the video up to the innards of the 9" mono monitor.
My other option is carving a big rectangle all the way across the back of the Classic II's port holes for access to the ports, and having a video cable that reenters the case in an ugly fashion. I have seen people make little boards for other projects (there was a particularly well done mini in a Plus mod with what I'm talking about), but have never done such a thing myself.
So what I want is a 813/16" x 2" (223mm x 50mm) board with the correct SCSI, Serial, ADB, and audio ports (probably cannibalized off of the Classic II's dead logic board), in the correct Classic II positions on one 813/16" edge, with either headers & custom cabling, or the opposite gender of the same ports in the LC positions on the other edge. I'm thinking headers and custom cabling is more in my ballpark, since I'd have to source male serial and ADB ports, which would be... difficult. Maybe a combo, with the fairly big and central SCSI actually having a male DB-25 that screws in (providing mechanical support as a bonus), and everything else headers with spliced cables to simplify the routing.
How does one begin the process? I know I'll need to make a parts list and do some very precise measuring. Is there an app? Is there a guy I should ask to do it for er... help me?
I'm hoping one of the accomplished soldering-iron wielders around here will be able to assemble it for me, because I am more likely to end up in the emergency room than end up with a useful product if I try to solder it myself.
Just cut off the back portion off the DOA Classic MoBo. You can lop off cables and solder the wires to the thruhole solder connections underneath each connector.
The VGA connection shouldn't be difficult either, what resolutions does the monitor support? You can wire the Mac->VGA conversion settings right there in the adapter harness.
The VGA connection shouldn't be difficult either, what resolutions does the monitor support? You can wire the Mac->VGA conversion settings right there in the adapter harness.
Man, even I have my limits. What's wrong with buying a few $0.90c connectors and mounting them on perfboard?
The D-Sub connector's pins are staggered and won't work on perf or I would have suggested it. I haven't checked, but everything may not even be on .100 centers to begin with anyway. I've seen a couple of really well done hacks that have used sections of the original PCBs, right up to and including the MoBo and A/B of a compact Mac for one mod.
If it's dead already, it's dead anyway . . .
. . . so recycle by re-use instead of creating even more landfill and using more new resources in the process, at least he knows it'll fit! :-/
If it's dead already, it's dead anyway . . .
. . . so recycle by re-use instead of creating even more landfill and using more new resources in the process, at least he knows it'll fit! :-/
So the 9" monochrome SVGA monitor arrived today (Saturday at work actually) and I was a little concerned at its condition. The tube was pushed in from the bezel by at least a 1/4" on the upper right side, and a little less on the left.
Rather than text it's functionality at that point, like I should've, I tore into the case to see if anything was amiss inside. The upper right (now left from the inside) screw through the mounting bracket was still screwed into plastic, but that plastic had broken away from the rest of the bezel. The other upper screw was loose; the plastic bit that was broken-off the other side was just stripped here. The bottom two were still solidly attached to the bezel, and all the electronics looked fine. Still, something traumatic enough to break the top tube supports has happened to this device...
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I measured the support brackets and was thrilled to find that they were 8" and 6" apart, just like the Classic's. So naturally I had to completely dismantle the monitor, and test the tube for fit in the Classic.
Perfect fit. No gaps, solid as a rock. Excellent.
The monitor's "analog board" will need some wire lengthening if I'm going to squeeze it in on the correct side of the tube, but I'm not convinced that'll be necessary.
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I came here and wrote a post about it instead.
So now it's just to test the functionality of the monitor in it's new Classic case.
Rather than text it's functionality at that point, like I should've, I tore into the case to see if anything was amiss inside. The upper right (now left from the inside) screw through the mounting bracket was still screwed into plastic, but that plastic had broken away from the rest of the bezel. The other upper screw was loose; the plastic bit that was broken-off the other side was just stripped here. The bottom two were still solidly attached to the bezel, and all the electronics looked fine. Still, something traumatic enough to break the top tube supports has happened to this device...
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I measured the support brackets and was thrilled to find that they were 8" and 6" apart, just like the Classic's. So naturally I had to completely dismantle the monitor, and test the tube for fit in the Classic.
Perfect fit. No gaps, solid as a rock. Excellent.
The monitor's "analog board" will need some wire lengthening if I'm going to squeeze it in on the correct side of the tube, but I'm not convinced that'll be necessary.
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I came here and wrote a post about it instead.
So now it's just to test the functionality of the monitor in it's new Classic case.
MUAHAHAHA!
Here's my to do for the monitor board:
A - it fits so nicely!
B - need to remove and/or bridge the power switch so it'll come on with the main power switch on the Classic's back. It is a physical switch so I could just leave it pushed, but I'd rather be tidy. Probably also lose the LED
C - in final install I'll have a much more internal solution for getting video signal to the AB. Hopefully from a header on my little port-repositioning board right to the AB's header in the little circle.
D - in final install I'll run power leads over to the one main switch.
E - (not labeled) I'll need to figure out where/how to mount this inside the Classic. The board almost, but not quite slides over to the right side, a couple of the wires from the board to the neck/yoke are a hair too short. Should there be a problem if I carefully remove those leads, and replace them with longer ones of the same gauge?
F - (not labeled) I need to mess with the tiny phillips headed pots on the board to scale and center the picture on the screen.
G - (not labeled) Lots of stuff I haven't thought of yet.
Thoughts?
A - it fits so nicely!
B - need to remove and/or bridge the power switch so it'll come on with the main power switch on the Classic's back. It is a physical switch so I could just leave it pushed, but I'd rather be tidy. Probably also lose the LED
C - in final install I'll have a much more internal solution for getting video signal to the AB. Hopefully from a header on my little port-repositioning board right to the AB's header in the little circle.
D - in final install I'll run power leads over to the one main switch.
E - (not labeled) I'll need to figure out where/how to mount this inside the Classic. The board almost, but not quite slides over to the right side, a couple of the wires from the board to the neck/yoke are a hair too short. Should there be a problem if I carefully remove those leads, and replace them with longer ones of the same gauge?
F - (not labeled) I need to mess with the tiny phillips headed pots on the board to scale and center the picture on the screen.
G - (not labeled) Lots of stuff I haven't thought of yet.
Thoughts?
It's a fairly Apple looking case... a little softer on the corner radii, but close. Good and scratched up, with a dent/gouge in it's forehead, but nothing bondo and elbow grease couldn't fix. The missing support screw-hole could probably be accomplished with gorilla glue or something.That's a lovely little monitor, Al. If you don't need the plastics, I've got a great idea for a hack. I've been playing with the 6100 BezelBits and that monitor case, sans tilt-n-swivel base, would fit just about perfectly on top of it. [}
Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
Front bezel: 91/4" wide X 73/16" tall
Front bezel inside edge (at the tube): 73/16" wide X 53/16" tall
Depth front to back: 93/4"
It's perfect for my purposes, please PM me a price if you decide it needs to be recycled into a new hack . . .
. . . that you don't particularly want to do yourself. :approve: ;D
. . . that you don't particularly want to do yourself. :approve: ;D
Interesting. It's a very Mac looking case.
Yes, looks very similar to my 12"RGB
Yep if there wasn't a "chin" under the bezel, and if the corners were sharper and all the angles were right-angles on the back box it would be a very convincing mini Apple 12" Hi-Res mono monitor.
I've had it on for a few minutes now, and the actual monitor (not the case) is really quite lovely. I'm running the P460 board at 640x480@60 and thousands of "colors." Very smooth looking. Love the grayscale striped apple menu.
Definitely need to mess with the adjustments. No biggie, but the picture is too close to the top left, and could be wider/taller for my tastes.
I wish my 605 board hadn't pooped out on me, I'd love to see how/if it handles 800x600 and 1024x768.
I guess I could attach it to something *gasp* PC to see what it can do... nah.
I've had it on for a few minutes now, and the actual monitor (not the case) is really quite lovely. I'm running the P460 board at 640x480@60 and thousands of "colors." Very smooth looking. Love the grayscale striped apple menu.
Definitely need to mess with the adjustments. No biggie, but the picture is too close to the top left, and could be wider/taller for my tastes.
I wish my 605 board hadn't pooped out on me, I'd love to see how/if it handles 800x600 and 1024x768.
I guess I could attach it to something *gasp* PC to see what it can do... nah.
Yep, mini 12" RGB 'za topper was my very first thought when you linked to the auction.
Bondo can cover far more than just a single sin. }
How does the 9" Classic CRT look in the VGA bezel?
Bondo can cover far more than just a single sin. }
How does the 9" Classic CRT look in the VGA bezel?
I would assume, since the VGA tube fits perfectly in the Classic bezel, transitively, the Classic's tube would fit the VGA's bezel perfectly too. The Classic's AB will not fit inside the cute little faux-12 though.
Do you want the Classic's tube installed when I send it?
You making a mini LC with Classic parts?
Joined HDD & FDD sections of a 6100's front bezel, a MonoFeet™ installed under the chin & the microRGB™ on top = microLC6475™
If you think the Cassic's CRT is good, I'll try throwing it into the ZipMacPlus™ along with the MoBo and A/B mcd sent to me . . .
. . . then maybe install the ATOM board in this new project . . .
. . . unless the Duo's LCD can be folded up to fit in there. }
If you think the Cassic's CRT is good, I'll try throwing it into the ZipMacPlus™ along with the MoBo and A/B mcd sent to me . . .
. . . then maybe install the ATOM board in this new project . . .
. . . unless the Duo's LCD can be folded up to fit in there. }